Best wax for a black Monte?
#31
07-13-2009, 02:08 PM
Sure! I've been wanting to check out Philly for a while anyway, I gota run up those steps a la Rocky Balboa. I just hope I can make it all the way to the top, haha.
So send that plane ticket and let's do work!
So send that plane ticket and let's do work!
#32
07-13-2009, 02:12 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 25,136
LOL I don't think you'd have a hard time running up the Rocky steps... (they aren't that hard to do)
And they moved the Rocky statue from the top of the steps, off to the side
see how it's no-where near the steps lol
And they moved the Rocky statue from the top of the steps, off to the side
see how it's no-where near the steps lol
Last edited by ChibiBlackSheep; 07-13-2009 at 02:16 PM.
#34
07-13-2009, 02:37 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 25,136
well that picture has to be like 2 years old... so about 2 years ago? and Because they kept decorating the steps and stuff and I guess it was always in the way.
#35
07-13-2009, 03:18 PM
Monte Of The Month -- August 2009
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Highland, IN
Posts: 5,827
#37
07-13-2009, 03:44 PM
Dang!
I was curious about the whole routine, so I went and got all the stuff to detail my cars, both of which are black, and went with all Meguiars products, this time. I have tried just about everything on my cars over the years. Last year it was Turtle Wax Ice - which I won't ever use again, it was too hard to take off, at least for me. All of this was done by hand, with terry cloth towels and no machinery.
First, I washed and clay barred each car. I was simply amazed at how much crap was on them.
Second, I used the Cleaner Wax on both cars.
Third, I used Gold Class on my 99, and the new NXT 2.0 on the 06.
Then I used the Ultimate Quick Detailer on both vehicles.
Here are my conclusions:
The clay bar really, really works well. I was very impressed. Easy to do, too.
I love the smell of the cleaner wax, it smells good enough to eat. It goes on easy, and comes off easy, but is not safe for plastics or glass.
The Gold Class works well, smells good, and goes on and off fairly easily. But since it is carnauba wax, it does leave yellow residue.
The NXT Tech Wax 2.0 is a really great product. Easy on, easy off, leaves an incredible shine, and NO RESIDUE.
The Ultimate Quick Detailer works just as advertised, too. Whole car done in less than 10 minutes.
Oh, yeah. I cheated and used Eagle1 Nanowax spray on all the trim, windows, and mirrors. That is one product I still had from last year, and I'm so impressed with it, I will use it until they quit making it. Just my 2 cents. I'm no pro, but I really like the new stuff from Meguiars, and also the Nanowax spray. As an added bonus, at least for me, since I live on a dirt road, the dust doesn't seem to either get on or stay on either car as much as it used to, which is a major plus for me. A quick dusting with a California duster and they are good to go!
Wheels and tires, that's a whole different ball of wax, LOL. I actually did them first, because those AR Casino's on the 99 are the hardest fricking wheel to clean I have ever cleaned in my life. But I used Blue Magic on the wheels, and Armor All on the tires for the wet look.
First, I washed and clay barred each car. I was simply amazed at how much crap was on them.
Second, I used the Cleaner Wax on both cars.
Third, I used Gold Class on my 99, and the new NXT 2.0 on the 06.
Then I used the Ultimate Quick Detailer on both vehicles.
Here are my conclusions:
The clay bar really, really works well. I was very impressed. Easy to do, too.
I love the smell of the cleaner wax, it smells good enough to eat. It goes on easy, and comes off easy, but is not safe for plastics or glass.
The Gold Class works well, smells good, and goes on and off fairly easily. But since it is carnauba wax, it does leave yellow residue.
The NXT Tech Wax 2.0 is a really great product. Easy on, easy off, leaves an incredible shine, and NO RESIDUE.
The Ultimate Quick Detailer works just as advertised, too. Whole car done in less than 10 minutes.
Oh, yeah. I cheated and used Eagle1 Nanowax spray on all the trim, windows, and mirrors. That is one product I still had from last year, and I'm so impressed with it, I will use it until they quit making it. Just my 2 cents. I'm no pro, but I really like the new stuff from Meguiars, and also the Nanowax spray. As an added bonus, at least for me, since I live on a dirt road, the dust doesn't seem to either get on or stay on either car as much as it used to, which is a major plus for me. A quick dusting with a California duster and they are good to go!
Wheels and tires, that's a whole different ball of wax, LOL. I actually did them first, because those AR Casino's on the 99 are the hardest fricking wheel to clean I have ever cleaned in my life. But I used Blue Magic on the wheels, and Armor All on the tires for the wet look.
the KING-O-WAX! You got me beat ! WAX ON - WAX OFF!
SO, THE NANO SPRAY ON THE TRIM... DOES IT HOLD UP???
Thanks, Mark.
#38
07-13-2009, 08:28 PM
Nanowax holds up fairly well, I use it
on all the trim, the headlights, tail lights, windows, and mirrors. I really like that it makes taking the bugs off the trim on the front of the car a whole lot easier. Not to mention the windshield.
The first cruise I took in my SS after the wax job, I hit a big bug, not sure what it was. I splattered it really good, but most of it just slid up and off the windshield like a big nasty raindrop. A quick wipedown with Quick Detailer took what little was left right off.
The first cruise I took in my SS after the wax job, I hit a big bug, not sure what it was. I splattered it really good, but most of it just slid up and off the windshield like a big nasty raindrop. A quick wipedown with Quick Detailer took what little was left right off.
#39
07-27-2009, 01:21 PM
The Top 10 ...
Top 10 Car Detailing Tips
10. Contaminants are continually landing on your paint finish whenever your car is driven or parked outside. Many contaminants can bond or etch into your paint finish in less than a week. For 100 percent protection and a "just detailed" appearance every day, keep a bottle of a quick spray detailer and clean microfiber towels in your car at all times for quick and easy removal of fresh contaminants before they do damage.
9. Swirl marks are microscopic scratches, primarily caused by harsh or contaminated application/wipe-off cloths or abrasive cleaners, polishes, and waxes. To prevent swirl marks, use only foam or cotton terry cloth applicators and either 100 percent cotton, deep-pile terrycloth, or premium microfiber towels for wiping off with nonabrasive formulations.
8. The durability of any car wax varies widely depending on the environment and how often your car is driven or parked outdoors. When your spray detailer becomes slow to wipe off, it's time to rewax.
7. Polishes that boast of cleaning action or protective qualities should be avoided because they are not pure polishes that produce an optimum gloss.
6. Abrasive compounds and cleaners are dangerous and should never be used on clearcoat paint finishes. To guard against scratching, only use nonabrasive cleaners and compounds to remove below-surface stains, blemishes, and oxidation.
5. After washing your car, rub the back of your hand across its top surfaces. You will quickly feel bonded contaminants that must be removed with a clay bar before clear gloss and lasting protection can be achieved.
4. When washing your car, always work from the top down to prevent scratching your paint with the more abrasive contaminants from the lower sections of your car.
3. Dishwashing detergents should never be used on paint finishes. Only use dedicated carwash shampoos and conditioners to wash your car.
2. Unless otherwise directed, "show car perfect" results are best achieved when all five of the following steps are performed in the shade and to surfaces that are not hot.
1. Five basic steps for restoring and maintaining your paint finish:
* Wash. This removes loose contaminants on your paint finish.
* Clean. This removes bonded contaminants, stains, blemishes, scratches, and oxidation before polishing or waxing.
* Polish. This is the optional step for creating perfectly clear reflections on black paint finishes and other dark colors.
* Protect. Form a barrier of waxes, polymers, silicones, and resins on top of your paint finish to protect it from the elements.
* Maintain. The missing link between washing and waxing is the regular use of a spray detailer to keep your car looking like it was just detailed.
__________________
Mark Thompson
Gardner, KS
mr.chevroletss@hotmail.com
Top 10 Car Detailing Tips10. Contaminants are continually landing on your paint finish whenever your car is driven or parked outside. Many contaminants can bond or etch into your paint finish in less than a week. For 100 percent protection and a "just detailed" appearance every day, keep a bottle of a quick spray detailer and clean microfiber towels in your car at all times for quick and easy removal of fresh contaminants before they do damage.
9. Swirl marks are microscopic scratches, primarily caused by harsh or contaminated application/wipe-off cloths or abrasive cleaners, polishes, and waxes. To prevent swirl marks, use only foam or cotton terry cloth applicators and either 100 percent cotton, deep-pile terrycloth, or premium microfiber towels for wiping off with nonabrasive formulations.
8. The durability of any car wax varies widely depending on the environment and how often your car is driven or parked outdoors. When your spray detailer becomes slow to wipe off, it's time to rewax.
7. Polishes that boast of cleaning action or protective qualities should be avoided because they are not pure polishes that produce an optimum gloss.
6. Abrasive compounds and cleaners are dangerous and should never be used on clearcoat paint finishes. To guard against scratching, only use nonabrasive cleaners and compounds to remove below-surface stains, blemishes, and oxidation.
5. After washing your car, rub the back of your hand across its top surfaces. You will quickly feel bonded contaminants that must be removed with a clay bar before clear gloss and lasting protection can be achieved.
4. When washing your car, always work from the top down to prevent scratching your paint with the more abrasive contaminants from the lower sections of your car.
3. Dishwashing detergents should never be used on paint finishes. Only use dedicated carwash shampoos and conditioners to wash your car.
2. Unless otherwise directed, "show car perfect" results are best achieved when all five of the following steps are performed in the shade and to surfaces that are not hot.
1. Five basic steps for restoring and maintaining your paint finish:
* Wash. This removes loose contaminants on your paint finish.
* Clean. This removes bonded contaminants, stains, blemishes, scratches, and oxidation before polishing or waxing.
* Polish. This is the optional step for creating perfectly clear reflections on black paint finishes and other dark colors.
* Protect. Form a barrier of waxes, polymers, silicones, and resins on top of your paint finish to protect it from the elements.
* Maintain. The missing link between washing and waxing is the regular use of a spray detailer to keep your car looking like it was just detailed.
__________________
Mark Thompson
Gardner, KS
mr.chevroletss@hotmail.com