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Best wax for a black Monte?

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 09:05 AM
  #11  
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Eagle1 is pretty good to.
 
Old Jul 5, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #12  
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what about claybars or scratch removers?

i noticed a lot of fine scratches mainly on my hood and it's killing me knowing they're their.
 
Old Jul 5, 2009 | 08:23 PM
  #13  
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Clay bars are all the same. Difference is how much you get for how much. Check them closely. My issue is with the white residue. It's senseless to use anything that's not clear anymore, IMHO.
 
Old Jul 6, 2009 | 01:28 AM
  #14  
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Yea, or when you get it in rock chips and it makes it look even worse.
 
Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #15  
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by RocknSS04
Thanks all for the tips. We've been using Meguires NXT and the Quick Detailer for quite a while. Just seems like the residue keeps coming back. Nice shine, and durable, but it is NOT friendly on the rubber trim and plastic. I want something either clear or black. No more white wax for me. Are all of the waxes recommended either clear or black?
S100 is a yellow paste wax that goes on thin and comes off w/no residue and IS friendly on rubber and plastic. I highly suggest you give it a go, you won't be disappointed.

Originally Posted by jimbo7
what about claybars or scratch removers?

i noticed a lot of fine scratches mainly on my hood and it's killing me knowing they're their.
Clay bars don't remove scratches, no matter how fine they are. I've not used any scratch removers because that's what I use polish for, I just use the right combo of foam pad and polish for the severity of the scratches i'm trying to remove via my PC 6424 or rotary, depending on how bad they are.

The problem i've found with alot of those "scratch removers" is that they contain fillers which fill in the scratch instead of removing them. What happens is after a few washes you'll notice the scratches reappear. For this reason I choose to put a little more effort into it and polish the scratches away. Yes, it takes longer to do so, but the results I get are worth it.

Here's an example of my corrrective work

Before


After


Originally Posted by RocknSS04
Clay bars are all the same. Difference is how much you get for how much. Check them closely. My issue is with the white residue. It's senseless to use anything that's not clear anymore, IMHO.
Negative. Clay bars come in different abrasiveness

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Auto_Det...ioning_s/7.htm

I'm telling you bro, S100 is the shiznit! It's not clear but you'd never know when you're removing it.

Originally Posted by Enzo354
Yea, or when you get it in rock chips and it makes it look even worse.
For those situations, Turtle Wax ICE is useful.
 
Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #17  
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holy CRAP! the difference in those 2 pics is amazing - great work!!!
 
Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #18  
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If you know what you are doing, a little wet sanding and buffing goes a long way. My Fiance just got a 1995 Ferrari 348 Spider to detail cause the guy who owns it wants to sell it.
 
Old Jul 8, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ChevySSGirl
holy CRAP! the difference in those 2 pics is amazing - great work!!!
Thank you. It took me two whole days to get the results you see but when I presented it to the owner, his reaction was well worth it.
 
Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:15 AM
  #20  
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`Rich, again thanks for your input & sharing your knowledge,
experience of many years of detailing.
Also for adding your b-4 & after pic's. You've posted
many since you've been a MCF Family member & I am always
impressed.
We should listen to the Masters of the `Art of Detailing
if we seek perfection in our auto's
4-Sure ~ Thanks
 



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