6th Gen ('00-'05): tire tread running fast
#11
07-08-2013, 04:35 PM
Front Sway Bars will break. Here is what happened to mine as I replaced it this July 4th weekend.
I did a brake job about a month ago and saw a hole in my sway bar. When I unbolted it, half the flange just fell off.
I replaced the front with "GMPP Kit - Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar w/ bushings and end links" (GM p/n 12498643).... purchased from Summit Racing because of free shipping of $75 order or more. I opted to use Moog front bushings instead (Moog p/n K80815).... purchased from O'Reilly
Also replaced the rear with a GM Grand Prix Comp G Solid Sway Bar (GM p/n 10351314)... purchase from GM Parts Direct
I did a brake job about a month ago and saw a hole in my sway bar. When I unbolted it, half the flange just fell off.
I replaced the front with "GMPP Kit - Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar w/ bushings and end links" (GM p/n 12498643).... purchased from Summit Racing because of free shipping of $75 order or more. I opted to use Moog front bushings instead (Moog p/n K80815).... purchased from O'Reilly
Also replaced the rear with a GM Grand Prix Comp G Solid Sway Bar (GM p/n 10351314)... purchase from GM Parts Direct
thats exactly what mines look like right now, im gonna replace mines with a solid bar from 1aauto.com 100 and free shipping, comes with new bushings and links as well. how hard was it to do this? did you have to do anything special? lift engine or subframe? i heard you had to do this
#12
07-09-2013, 08:59 AM
I have a 2004 Monte LS 3400...
-give yourself plenty of room on either the passenger side or driver side to pull the sway bar out (keep in mind for garage install)
-loosened lugs and jack up the car
-2 jack stands under the engine cradle
-removed both front wheels
-unbolted sway bar endlinks on both sides
-unbolted sway bar bushings on both sides... driver side took forever to unbolt the bushing because there are brake lines directly over the one bolt and there is not much room to turn your wrench nor back out the bolt
-removed sway bar.... it's like a puzzle.... took 15 minutes...
*pay attention how the old sway bar is sitting in there so you don't install the new one upside down.
*Also pay attention how you take it out, so you can put the new one back in reverse order.
*lube up all bushings... unless you like squeaks
-install new sway bar
-install new end links... but keep them loose
-bolt up bushings
-tighten up endlinks
-mount wheels
-lower car
-test drive
-give yourself plenty of room on either the passenger side or driver side to pull the sway bar out (keep in mind for garage install)
-loosened lugs and jack up the car
-2 jack stands under the engine cradle
-removed both front wheels
-unbolted sway bar endlinks on both sides
-unbolted sway bar bushings on both sides... driver side took forever to unbolt the bushing because there are brake lines directly over the one bolt and there is not much room to turn your wrench nor back out the bolt
-removed sway bar.... it's like a puzzle.... took 15 minutes...
*pay attention how the old sway bar is sitting in there so you don't install the new one upside down.
*Also pay attention how you take it out, so you can put the new one back in reverse order.
*lube up all bushings... unless you like squeaks
-install new sway bar
-install new end links... but keep them loose
-bolt up bushings
-tighten up endlinks
-mount wheels
-lower car
-test drive
Last edited by KCFITZ78; 07-09-2013 at 09:11 AM.
#13
07-09-2013, 08:15 PM
I have a 2004 Monte LS 3400...
-give yourself plenty of room on either the passenger side or driver side to pull the sway bar out (keep in mind for garage install)
-loosened lugs and jack up the car
-2 jack stands under the engine cradle
-removed both front wheels
-unbolted sway bar endlinks on both sides
-unbolted sway bar bushings on both sides... driver side took forever to unbolt the bushing because there are brake lines directly over the one bolt and there is not much room to turn your wrench nor back out the bolt
-removed sway bar.... it's like a puzzle.... took 15 minutes...
*pay attention how the old sway bar is sitting in there so you don't install the new one upside down.
*Also pay attention how you take it out, so you can put the new one back in reverse order.
*lube up all bushings... unless you like squeaks
-install new sway bar
-install new end links... but keep them loose
-bolt up bushings
-tighten up endlinks
-mount wheels
-lower car
-test drive
-give yourself plenty of room on either the passenger side or driver side to pull the sway bar out (keep in mind for garage install)
-loosened lugs and jack up the car
-2 jack stands under the engine cradle
-removed both front wheels
-unbolted sway bar endlinks on both sides
-unbolted sway bar bushings on both sides... driver side took forever to unbolt the bushing because there are brake lines directly over the one bolt and there is not much room to turn your wrench nor back out the bolt
-removed sway bar.... it's like a puzzle.... took 15 minutes...
*pay attention how the old sway bar is sitting in there so you don't install the new one upside down.
*Also pay attention how you take it out, so you can put the new one back in reverse order.
*lube up all bushings... unless you like squeaks
-install new sway bar
-install new end links... but keep them loose
-bolt up bushings
-tighten up endlinks
-mount wheels
-lower car
-test drive
#14
07-10-2013, 07:52 AM
The cradle is the sub-frame section the engine is mounted in. Just an FYI - If you place the jack stands under the unibody frame instead of the cradle you can loosen the front 2 cradle bolts (do not remove) and lower the front of it (put a floor jack under it prior to loosening bolts) for added clearance. The stabilizer bar will then slide out with ease. 
#15
07-10-2013, 09:23 AM
The cradle is the sub-frame section the engine is mounted in. Just an FYI - If you place the jack stands under the unibody frame instead of the cradle you can loosen the front 2 cradle bolts (do not remove) and lower the front of it (put a floor jack under it prior to loosening bolts) for added clearance. The stabilizer bar will then slide out with ease.
Reaaaaally... did not know that, would have been nice to try it out. Just be careful placing jack stands under unibody frame... it can be done.... but the unibody frame is not a jacking point (at least I have not found the proper jacking point).
#16
07-10-2013, 11:12 AM
You can safely place the jack stands under the unibody in the same location you raise the vehicle with the OE jack.
#17
07-10-2013, 05:55 PM
oh on those edges ok....thats where i was thinking about putting it...seen this one vid that dude didnt have to do nothing to engine cradle just fished it out
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