Strut Replacement
#1
Strut Replacement
Hey everyone, I have a 2001 Monte SS that I would like to replace the struts on. I have purchased the KYB adjustable struts and am hoping to find the time this weekend to install them. I have done shocks on my Jeep before, but I have never replaced struts before. I am planning on renting the spring compressor from Autozone, but is there anything else I need to know about doing the struts? Do I basically compress the spring, unbolt the strut, and reverse for install the new one? Also, is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there (busings, ect). I looked around, but I didn't see a guide or how to posted.
Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated!
Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated!
#2
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
I believe the front struts on the Monte Carlo are similiar to what I've done on my '94 Grand Am (minor differences).
I don't recall if the tie rod on the Monte connects to the strut OR the steering knuckle (I know on the Grand Am, it's on the strut, you will need a pickle fork or ball join seperator if that is the case).
Outside of that, your next tough issue will be the two bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle. Leave the nut threaded to the end of the bolt (helps give you something of surface area when using tools on it). Best tool, air hammer (don't have one, get one, can't get one, you may not wanna do this job)! When I did this on a newer car, air hammer pushed the lower bolts out without any problem. BUT, on an older car, where the bolts may have some corrosion holding them in, some other methods need done. I've been there, done that (things like swinging at them with a 2lbs sledge does NOT work). What I found works the best is using a small propane torch and heat the head of the bolt (not the knuckle). Be VERY careful not to heat plastic or rubber in that neighborhood (like the CV boot). Now, once the head is good and hot, stop and let it cool. The idea is to expand the bolt in it's spot with the heat, let it cool to get back to normal size (this should break bonds of corrosion), once cool, take the air hammer and use it to push the bolt out. Hopefully that does the trick.
From there, you have 3 nuts/bolts on the top of the strut tower and that sucker should drop right out!
As for compressing the strut, I have access to a professional MacPherson Strut/Spring compressior. I prefer that over the loan-a-tool version. You may want to do one of two things:
1 - See of a local shop would be willing to compress the springs and swap the strut for a low cost.
2 - Sometimes for just a little more, you can buy a pre-assembled strut (I think it's called a "Quick Strut", comes with strut, bearing plate and coil spring, all ready to pop right into the car).
Hope this helps! Good luck with your strut replacement!
I don't recall if the tie rod on the Monte connects to the strut OR the steering knuckle (I know on the Grand Am, it's on the strut, you will need a pickle fork or ball join seperator if that is the case).
Outside of that, your next tough issue will be the two bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle. Leave the nut threaded to the end of the bolt (helps give you something of surface area when using tools on it). Best tool, air hammer (don't have one, get one, can't get one, you may not wanna do this job)! When I did this on a newer car, air hammer pushed the lower bolts out without any problem. BUT, on an older car, where the bolts may have some corrosion holding them in, some other methods need done. I've been there, done that (things like swinging at them with a 2lbs sledge does NOT work). What I found works the best is using a small propane torch and heat the head of the bolt (not the knuckle). Be VERY careful not to heat plastic or rubber in that neighborhood (like the CV boot). Now, once the head is good and hot, stop and let it cool. The idea is to expand the bolt in it's spot with the heat, let it cool to get back to normal size (this should break bonds of corrosion), once cool, take the air hammer and use it to push the bolt out. Hopefully that does the trick.
From there, you have 3 nuts/bolts on the top of the strut tower and that sucker should drop right out!
As for compressing the strut, I have access to a professional MacPherson Strut/Spring compressior. I prefer that over the loan-a-tool version. You may want to do one of two things:
1 - See of a local shop would be willing to compress the springs and swap the strut for a low cost.
2 - Sometimes for just a little more, you can buy a pre-assembled strut (I think it's called a "Quick Strut", comes with strut, bearing plate and coil spring, all ready to pop right into the car).
Hope this helps! Good luck with your strut replacement!
#3
Thanks for the advice. My Monte has been garaged for it's entire life so hopefully the bolts aren't too difficult to get out. I am used to dealing with stubborn bolts though with everything else I wrench on.
Also, on the rear struts, do I need to access any bolts inside the trunk to get the top half of the strut unbolted? There's not alot of room on the top of the strut tower back there. or do they unbolt from the underside?
My dad words at a Chevy dealership, maybe I will just give him the struts and one of the mechanics can swap over the springs for me. Sounds a lot easier than wrestling with the crappy spring compressor I would rent.
Thanks again
Also, on the rear struts, do I need to access any bolts inside the trunk to get the top half of the strut unbolted? There's not alot of room on the top of the strut tower back there. or do they unbolt from the underside?
My dad words at a Chevy dealership, maybe I will just give him the struts and one of the mechanics can swap over the springs for me. Sounds a lot easier than wrestling with the crappy spring compressor I would rent.
Thanks again
#4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
FYI - I know in the case of my Grand Am, the two bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle have a spline on them! Do NOT try to turn the bolt, it's probably NOT threaded all the way and probably also has a spline and a pressed in fit! You need to push the bolt out. I just thought of that.
I have not dealt with rear struts yet, only rear shocks. But I would assume the rear struts have three nuts/bolts on the top like the fronts do (not to mention if you look at vendors that sell after market front/rear sway bars, they have what looks like spots that connect with the factory bolting hardware).
I have not dealt with rear struts yet, only rear shocks. But I would assume the rear struts have three nuts/bolts on the top like the fronts do (not to mention if you look at vendors that sell after market front/rear sway bars, they have what looks like spots that connect with the factory bolting hardware).
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