OK, it's not a Monte, but a CLOSE relative. My wife's '05 Impala. Same exact front/rear brake setup as the '00-'05 Monte. I've got a list of things to do with the brakes, for the most part all under control. I sadly have a question that makes me feel like a noob at this.....

I have the back calipers are off (including the bracket). In theory, the rotor should drop/slide right off. Perhaps requiring the use of some wiggling, maybe some force from a hammer.

MY problem.... Even though the e-brake is NOT engaged, the drum of the rotor and the e-brake shoes are making contact and creating a huge problem. Ideas welcome.

I spent the night cursing and pounding those old rotors. They move, just not off the stupid e-brake shoes. I went as far as loosening the e-brake adjustment (approximately center of the rear of the car) in hopes MAYBE that might do the trick. No luck. I got LUCKY and got ONE rotor off on the driver side. The passenger side is still bound up. I have checked the shop book and all the resources I can think of. I am tapped out.

Not often I seek assistance.... Gang, I turn to the crew on MCF for ideas....

 

Try heating them up, whack em again. Take a pry bar to it too.

 

Did you remove the threaded retaining washers off the studs?
also soak the the area with some PB Blaster (both sides) of the axle or the equal to it Jason...

Also when hitting the hat with a BFH... use a pattern like you would to tighten the lugs (criss cross) to prevent binding it further....(DO NOT HIT THE STUDS OR YOULL HAVE TO REPLACE THOSE ...SO BE CAREFUL...)
Do you have access to a torch? Heat the areas between the lugs for a few minutes to help expand the rotor around the studs. This will help to release that area from the rotor. As well as around the axle.. for no more than 5 minutes in each area...

If,
Your going to replace the rotor.... Don't be afraid to hit the rotor (with a BFH) from the backside to release it from the axle/e brake area..

worse case scenario...try using a 3" puller.... get it under some pressure and hit it with a rubber mallet or a BFH if it requires it!


Or, I have used a wrench (long enuff to cover the width of the rotor... Place it on the axle with a C Clamp on each end of the wrench connecting it from the back side of the rotor to the ends of the wrench...and tighten to put tension on the rotor that will assist in pulling the rotor of the studs and axle... Then start tapping around the hat (on the sides) to help the movement off the axle...tighten C Clamps as needed til its off.

Hope this helps!

 

There are not retainers on these rotors. Not is it not rusted on. Once the caliper and caliper bracket were removed, I can wiggle the entire rotor a significant amount. But in the lower back portion, it will NOT travel much because it's hitting the e-brack shoe on the inside of the rotor hat/drum. If I have the rotor back in the "installed" position and put the wheel back on, I can turn the assembly freely.

I have tried starting from the "installed" position and pulling the rotor out with out cocking/angling it, no luck. I tried starting my problem sport out first, not luck. I have pounded on every part of it with a 2lbs mini-sledge (only area I cannot or have not pounded is where the backing plate covers, this inclused some of the back of the rotor, the front, along the outside of the hat). Wednesday I pounded the thing until my arms were sore from swinging that sledge.

I cannot find any access to manipulate the e-brake shoe. About the only thing that might work is using some pry bars or a puller.

This is just crazy.

 

How bad are the rotors? Alot of rust? There could be rust build-up or a groove worn into the backside of the rotor preventing you from pulling it past the e-brake. Take an old chisel or something and scrape the inner diameter of the backside of the rotor.

 

Sorry i just remebered you said you can wiggle the rotors

Ignore this comment --->Also if the rotors are rusted quit a bit, where the rotor and hub make contact, they might have just bonded through corrosion / oxidatation. As sugessted by others.... use a puller or just keep pounding on it till free.

Be sure once you do get it apart, to use anti-seize on mating surfaces as preventive maintenance (ie: hub to rotor... rotor to wheel).

 

Even though you loosened the cable, the actuator may be seized/dirty and not allowing the shoe to release completely. There are 2 screws that hold the actuator to the backing plate. Remove them and it should give the cable/actuator enough slack to allow the show to completely retract.

Edit: The 2 screws are directly above the 4 that hold the backing plate.

 

Cool! I will give it a look (probably won't be until sometime Sunday). But this gives something new to look at.

I don't have much experience fixing ebrake issues. Other then lubing the actuator with say some WD-40, anything I should inspect one I liberate the rotor??

 

How did it go? Thinking of re-doing my brakes all around and looking for any potential hangups...

 

Slidehammer