I'm doing mine right now and am putting in the 34mm solid one. My problem right now is one of the bolts that holds the bushing in is stripped so its just spinning in the subframe. Should be fun getting that out lol

I'd recommend getting poly bushings and endlinks while you are at it. Less than $15 at rockauto for a set. I did that on my grand prix and it firmed up the from end a little. Not much, but for $15 I'd say it's worth it.

 

The problem is, unless you find another way to get the bar in, to remove the outer tie rod ends, the factory ones did not use a castle nut. Instead, they used a nut with a nylon insert. Every car that I had to remove the tie rods on, while getting that nut off, it gets to a point where it no longer wants to back out, the ball joint then snaps out of place and it's time to replace the tie rod.
The EASIEST way to remove that nut from the tie rod, get a propane torch, heat the nut up and melt the nylon out of it. I've only done that at the point of the ball joint snapped and I'm replacing the tie rod. You could try doing it before even wrenching on it and then replace the nut, but you have to be careful not to damage the tie rod rubber dust boot. And to be honest, if you have to replace the nut and all, I would opt to replace the tie rods (if you end up have to do one tie rod, do them both and get it aligned and your DONE, car has been maintained).
Also, a Harbor Freight ball joint separator works awesome to get the tie rod out of the steering knuckle once the nut is out of it. See the link below:
3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator

Anycase, as I said, there might be another way to do this, but be prepared to expect to remove the tie rods from the steering knuckle, be prepared for them the tie rods to break as a result.

 

I didn't remove my tie rods when I replaced my front sway bar ..
It took more time to remove front wheels then it did to replace sway bar..

 

Ahh, good to know. Maybe it was some of the difference from the Grand Prix steel subframe verse the aluminum subframe in the Monte. Perhaps some small changes like that allow it to fit easier.

 

i cant find the part on gmpartsdirect.com

 

i actually did a write up on this and put it in the repair help, the hardest part for me was putting the new one back in, i found that if you have the car jacked up with one side higher it slides right it....giggity, also i got mines off ebay for 80 and it was a solid steel bar, new bushings and whatnot try look there

 

Lowering the cradle makes the job a lot easier - especially if you install a larger diameter bar. You don't completely remove the bolts - you loosen them so the cradle will drop about 1-2 inches. That gives you plenty of room to R&R the bar. It takes a lot less time versus sitting the car on its tail and popping tie rods loose. By dropping the cradle the job takes (at least for me) about 20 minutes to replace.

 

hey does anybody know what size is the sway bar on a 03 ss? I see on rock auto they have different mm sizes??

 

It depends on what suspension package was ordered when the car was new. The HD suspension uses the 34mm bar and the standard suspension the 33mm bar.


You can take a look at the RPO codes to find out by entering your VIN here:

Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder

or you can measure the existing bar.

Just an FYI - The factory stabilizer bar is hollow and tend to break. You may want to look into a solid aftermarket bar kit that comes with new mounting brackets/bushings and end links.

 

i have a set of nos gmpp sway bars for sale cheap....front AND rear