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Pure drag racing consists of racing two cars from a dead stop to some given distance, typically 1/ 4 or 1/8 mile. The car that crosses the finish line first is the winner. Bracket racing consists of the same type of track and starting systems, but racing vehicles are grouped by their elapsed time (ET) potential,and raced against each other using a pre-selected dial-in. Two competing cars from the same bracket are paired, and the starting lights are staggered such that the slower car's starting lights begin the sequence first by the difference of the two dial-ins. The winner is the car that reaches the finish line first, providing it did not run quicker than it's dial in time. If both cars ran quicker than their respective dials, the car that ran the closest to its dial is the winner. Note that MPH has not been mentioned as a direct factor in winning or losing, and we will discuss that later.

To be a consistent winner in Bracket racing, your car must be able to run close to the selected dial each run. (It is permissible to change your dial after each run!) Additionally, your reaction time (time from the green light switch closure until your front wheel leaves the starting line) must be reasonably quick and consistent. In non-electronics classes where you simply drive with the car's normal brakes and throttle, a relatively good reaction time (RT) would range from .520 to .560, and a consistent car would repeat to within .02.-.03. seconds. These numbers vary widely, and numbers outside these ranges can and do win many bracket races. However, these numbers will make you competitive in most non-electronic classes.

You must realize that reaction time is a key element in drag racing. For example, if two cars run exactly the same ET but one driver has a .600 RT and the other driver has a .700 RT, the first driver will win by .1 second. What does .1 second translate to in distance? If the cars in question can run 95 MPH at the finish, .1 second is equal to about 14', or almost one car length. Looking at another example, if your car runs .2 second quicker than the competitor, but you have a .800 RT to your competitor's .550 RT, he/she will win by .05 second.

The elapsed time at the reaction time will always have this direct relationship, and both must be considered when reviewing your time tickets and/or your performance! How do you improve your RT? You must develop a consistent routine or staging your car, and stage identically each time. Remember, we recommend that you stop when the second stage light lights. Most tracks have a "courtesy" staging routine where both cars must turn the first stage light on before rolling into the second light. This prevents one car from trying to "burn down" the opponent by delaying staging. When both cars have the first light on, slowly advance until the second light just lights and then stop. This technique will position your car at the same location from the starting line on each run. Carefully watch each of the .5 second yellow lights, and "leave" at the same light sequence on each run. Typically, most cars can actually leave when the third yellow begins to glow.

The other important element of bracket racing is the dial-in. Experienced bracket racers have different methods of racing by selecting dials either slower than the car can actually run (sometimes called sand bagging) and then trying to stay slightly ahead of the other car, or dialing as close as the car will actually run. I strongly suggest you begin by selecting a dial that will allo