>Trans, Coolant, Brakes 'Flush < ? ?
#1
12-10-2013, 03:46 PM
>Trans, Coolant, Brakes, etc, Fluilds> 'Flush or not ? < ?
Hi Everyone,
Has anyone had the below service done to their Monte or other rides ? If so (?), please post & let us know `if you thought it was worth it ?
Below is from Pep Boys...Has any member used the Pep Boys Service Center ? If not, where do you go ?
* I've drained my coolant system & refilled & changed my brake fluids, but I've never went to a shop ?
Please post your thoughts on this topic > Thanks
Fluid Exchange Services
Coolant Flush, Coolant System Flush, Coolant Services | Pep Boys
^
Click above for source + more infor
A number of your vehicle's key functions rely on various fluids to keep them operating smoothly. Maintining proper levels and replacing depleted fluids is essential to performance and safety. Fluid Leak Warning Signs
Much like motor oil, transmission fluid is subject to breakdown due to increased friction, intense heat, and the introduction of contaminants. Eventually, the transmission fluid loses its ability to lubricate, cool, clean and flow freely. Includes
Get everything from Silver Service PLUS...
Brake fluid attracts moisture which will cause corrosion in the system over time and deterioration in the hydraulic parts. Changing the brake fluid at regular intervals will reduce the risk associated with corrosion. Includes
Get everything from Silver Service PLUS...
Even under normal driving conditions your power steering fluid can suffer from heat, friction and electrochemical degradation. Sludge and varnish deposits build up in your power steering system and prevent the easy turning and responsive handling you expect. Includes
Always refer to the owner's manual for your vehicle's scheduled maintenance requirements.
Has anyone had the below service done to their Monte or other rides ? If so (?), please post & let us know `if you thought it was worth it ?
Below is from Pep Boys...Has any member used the Pep Boys Service Center ? If not, where do you go ?
* I've drained my coolant system & refilled & changed my brake fluids, but I've never went to a shop ?
Please post your thoughts on this topic > Thanks
Fluid Exchange Services
Coolant Flush, Coolant System Flush, Coolant Services | Pep Boys
^
Click above for source + more infor
A number of your vehicle's key functions rely on various fluids to keep them operating smoothly. Maintining proper levels and replacing depleted fluids is essential to performance and safety. Fluid Leak Warning Signs- Fluid stains in your driveway or parking spot
- Frequent top offs required
- Dash board warning lights come on
Much like motor oil, transmission fluid is subject to breakdown due to increased friction, intense heat, and the introduction of contaminants. Eventually, the transmission fluid loses its ability to lubricate, cool, clean and flow freely. Includes
- Transmission chemical flush and additives
- Friction modifier for certain applications (where applicable)
- Replacement of virtually all
existing fluid with new fluid
Get everything from Silver Service PLUS...
- Filter or screen service
Brake fluid attracts moisture which will cause corrosion in the system over time and deterioration in the hydraulic parts. Changing the brake fluid at regular intervals will reduce the risk associated with corrosion. Includes
- Brake system evaluation
- Replacement of virtually
all existing fluid
with new fluid
- Coolant system evaluation
- Visual inspection of the crankcase oil & transmission fluid
- Inspection of all hoses
- Check fan blades, fan clutch and pullies
- Removal and replacement of virtually all of the old coolant
Get everything from Silver Service PLUS...
- Peak Professional Life Time coolant
Even under normal driving conditions your power steering fluid can suffer from heat, friction and electrochemical degradation. Sludge and varnish deposits build up in your power steering system and prevent the easy turning and responsive handling you expect. Includes
- Power steering system evaluation
- Power steering chemical flush
- Replacement of virtually
all existing fluid
with new fluid
Always refer to the owner's manual for your vehicle's scheduled maintenance requirements.
Last edited by BeachBumMike; 12-11-2013 at 06:06 AM.
#2
12-10-2013, 04:11 PM
Just like a human being, your car needs fluids to survive. If they were taken away, your vehicle would quickly find its way to the shoulder and beg for a drink.
Maintaining proper fluid levels is an essential and easy maintenance task. Even armchair mechanics can perform this one. It's fun, quick, and can add thousands of miles to the life of your car.
This procedure is particularly important if you're planning on a long road trip and want to travel safely and efficiently.
The systems that need checking include the following:
Let's break them down.
Engine. It's often been said that oil is the lifeblood of your car. Clichés usually become clichés because they contain a grain of truth. In this case, truer words were never spoken.
The oil in the crankcase of your engine is critical to long and healthy motor life. Without it, your engine would freeze up in a matter of minutes. Follow this link for more information on how often you should change your oil.
Checking your oil level is a fairly simple procedure. Experts generally agree that it's best to drive the car first before checking it. So take a little spin, then find a cool, shady spot to pop the hood.
Let the car sit for at least five minutes before checking, to give the oil time to settle into the sump.
With the hood open (and securely propped, so it doesn't bonk you on the head), locate the dipstick. It will be near the front of the engine, close to you, and sometimes has a brightly colored handle — yellow, red, or some other noticeable color. Find it? OK, remove it and wipe it with a clean rag or towel. Reinsert it into hole, then slowly remove it again. Check the level. The oil mark should fall between the two hash marks on the dipstick. If it's below the lower level, you need to add oil -- a quart will usually do it. Before you do so, though, wipe the dipstick again and check it a second time. Still low? Add a quart and recheck it. (It's best to add the oil, then start the engine to circulate it, then let it sit for another five minutes before rechecking.) If it's still below the lower hash mark, you may need to add another quart, but be careful not to overfill it, as this can lead to other problems.
For more information, we wrote a How To. on a complete oil change procedure.
How To Change Your Oil
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle. The automatic transmission fluid should be checked with the engine running. The transmission dipstick is typically located behind the oil dipstick, and doesn't stick up as high. If you have trouble locating it, consult your owner's manual. Oftentimes it will have the same colorful markings (yellow, red, etc.) as the oil dipstick.
Start the engine and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Before you do, though, make sure to remove any loose clothing hanging from your neck, such as a scarf, sweater, necktie, or long jewelry. These could get caught in a running fan belt and cause you to have a close encounter of the mechanical kind.
With the engine running, extract the transmission dipstick. Wipe it clean and reinsert it, then extract it again. It will have similar markings to the oil dipstick, one mark for too low, another for too high.
(Note: Transmission fluid will almost never be low. The automatic transmission / transaxle is a sealed system, requiring little maintenance. If your fluid is low, it most likely means you have a leak in the system, such as a worn seal or a crack somewhere. Have you noticed an oily patch on your driveway where you park? Is it red, or reddish-brown? If so, you may have a transmission leak and will need to see a mechanic.)
Even if the level is OK, note the color and consistency of the fluid. If it is very dark or black, check your records and owner's manual and plan on getting it changed; it's probably overdue.
Manual Transmission. This is done with the engine off. For most cars, you have to get under the car and remove the fill plug with a wrench. Stick your finger in and feel for fluid. If you can feel fluid on the tip of your finger, it's probably OK. Again, as above, note the color of the fluid and consult your owner's manual for exact procedures and service interval.
Many cars these days have a hydraulic clutch system, which needs brake fluid to keep the parts lubricated. An easy way to tell if your car has one is to check under the hood and look for a small plastic reservoir-similar to the one used for brake fluid, but smaller. Once you've located it, remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid.
Radiator/Cooling System. This should be done when the engine is cool or lukewarm, not cold.
Please note: The contents of the radiator are pressurized and can scald you if the system is opened when it is hot. Also, never check the radiator when the engine is running.
Locate the radiator cap. It should be in the center of the engine compartment, in the very front. Use a rag to remove it. Look down into the radiator and see if you can spot fluid. If it's near the top, you're in good shape. If not, you'll need to add some.
Engine coolant is added on a 50/50 basis -- 50 percent water, 50 percent coolant. Read the instructions on the coolant container for details.
You may want to also check the fluid level in the coolant reservoir. This is a plastic container just to the side of the radiator, with a hose connecting the two. It serves as an overflow receptacle for excess radiator coolant (since the fluid expands and contracts with heat). Pop the lid open and fill it about two-thirds of the way full.
Here's a more complete How To. on maintaining your cooling system.
How To Maintain Your Vehicle's Cooling System
Brakes. Like the transmission, the braking system is a sealed network. If it repeatedly gets low on fluid, you need to locate the source of the problem, either by yourself or with the help of a mechanic. A leaky braking system is nothing to play around with.
To check the fluid level, locate the brake fluid reservoir. It's usually in the engine compartment. If you can't find it, consult your owner's manual. Remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid.
Note: Avoid getting water in the braking system, at all costs. Therefore, do not do this procedure in the rain, unless in a garage or under an overhang.
Here are some Edmunds.com links about brakes and braking safety.
How To Change Your Brake Pads
Brakes: Drum vs. Disc
Keep Your (Braking) Distance: More Than Just Slowing Down
Battery. Some cars have what is called a "maintenance-free battery." This means the battery is sealed and should not be tampered with. You'll be able to tell right away, since the battery has a flat top with no openings.
Most cars, however, still utilize traditional battery design, with six cells that need occasional refilling. Access to the cells comes through six screw caps, or, more commonly these days, two rows of plastic caps that pressure-fit over three cells each. Either pry the caps off with a flat-head screwdriver, or unscrew the six caps.
It's best to fill battery cells with distilled water, since it lacks contaminants and trace elements that can cause a corrosive buildup around the battery terminals.
The battery cells should be filled to the bottom of the fill hole, no further.
CAUTION: Battery acid has sulfuric acid in it, which is highly caustic to skin and eyes. Wear eye protection and gloves when doing this procedure.
Here are some links to articles on batteries:
A Shocking Expose: Your Car's Battery
Jump-Start
Window Washer. Some newer cars and trucks now have a light that comes on to indicate when this receptacle needs refilling. It's typically located in the engine compartment, underneath the windshield. It looks a lot like the coolant overflow reservoir, but will be located closer to the rear of the engine compartment. Also, both of the caps will be labeled "coolant" and "windshield," or something similar, to distinguish one from the other.
Some vehicles, such as SUVs and minivans, may have a second receptacle, located in the rear of the vehicle, to supply the rear wipers.
If you're unable to locate these fluid reservoirs, consult your owner's manual.
Many people will augment the water in these receptacles with Windex or some other glass cleaner, to increase the cleaning power of the fluid. This is a particularly good idea in summer, when dead insects on the windshield can reduce visibility.
Air Conditioner. The average home mechanic doesn't have the tools or know-how to check this fluid level (which is actually a gas, not a fluid). We mention it here because it should be checked. Best to find a certified air conditioning mechanic to have this done.
Remember, maintaining proper fluid levels insures safe and trouble-free driving. It takes only a few minutes, and can often catch a problem before it becomes a crisis.
Maintaining proper fluid levels is an essential and easy maintenance task. Even armchair mechanics can perform this one. It's fun, quick, and can add thousands of miles to the life of your car.
This procedure is particularly important if you're planning on a long road trip and want to travel safely and efficiently.
The systems that need checking include the following:
- engine
- transmission
- radiator/cooling system
- brakes
- battery
- window washer
- air conditioner
Let's break them down.
Engine. It's often been said that oil is the lifeblood of your car. Clichés usually become clichés because they contain a grain of truth. In this case, truer words were never spoken.
The oil in the crankcase of your engine is critical to long and healthy motor life. Without it, your engine would freeze up in a matter of minutes. Follow this link for more information on how often you should change your oil.
Checking your oil level is a fairly simple procedure. Experts generally agree that it's best to drive the car first before checking it. So take a little spin, then find a cool, shady spot to pop the hood.
Let the car sit for at least five minutes before checking, to give the oil time to settle into the sump.
With the hood open (and securely propped, so it doesn't bonk you on the head), locate the dipstick. It will be near the front of the engine, close to you, and sometimes has a brightly colored handle — yellow, red, or some other noticeable color. Find it? OK, remove it and wipe it with a clean rag or towel. Reinsert it into hole, then slowly remove it again. Check the level. The oil mark should fall between the two hash marks on the dipstick. If it's below the lower level, you need to add oil -- a quart will usually do it. Before you do so, though, wipe the dipstick again and check it a second time. Still low? Add a quart and recheck it. (It's best to add the oil, then start the engine to circulate it, then let it sit for another five minutes before rechecking.) If it's still below the lower hash mark, you may need to add another quart, but be careful not to overfill it, as this can lead to other problems.
For more information, we wrote a How To. on a complete oil change procedure.
How To Change Your Oil
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle. The automatic transmission fluid should be checked with the engine running. The transmission dipstick is typically located behind the oil dipstick, and doesn't stick up as high. If you have trouble locating it, consult your owner's manual. Oftentimes it will have the same colorful markings (yellow, red, etc.) as the oil dipstick.
Start the engine and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Before you do, though, make sure to remove any loose clothing hanging from your neck, such as a scarf, sweater, necktie, or long jewelry. These could get caught in a running fan belt and cause you to have a close encounter of the mechanical kind.
With the engine running, extract the transmission dipstick. Wipe it clean and reinsert it, then extract it again. It will have similar markings to the oil dipstick, one mark for too low, another for too high.
(Note: Transmission fluid will almost never be low. The automatic transmission / transaxle is a sealed system, requiring little maintenance. If your fluid is low, it most likely means you have a leak in the system, such as a worn seal or a crack somewhere. Have you noticed an oily patch on your driveway where you park? Is it red, or reddish-brown? If so, you may have a transmission leak and will need to see a mechanic.)
Even if the level is OK, note the color and consistency of the fluid. If it is very dark or black, check your records and owner's manual and plan on getting it changed; it's probably overdue.
Manual Transmission. This is done with the engine off. For most cars, you have to get under the car and remove the fill plug with a wrench. Stick your finger in and feel for fluid. If you can feel fluid on the tip of your finger, it's probably OK. Again, as above, note the color of the fluid and consult your owner's manual for exact procedures and service interval.
Many cars these days have a hydraulic clutch system, which needs brake fluid to keep the parts lubricated. An easy way to tell if your car has one is to check under the hood and look for a small plastic reservoir-similar to the one used for brake fluid, but smaller. Once you've located it, remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid.
Radiator/Cooling System. This should be done when the engine is cool or lukewarm, not cold.
Please note: The contents of the radiator are pressurized and can scald you if the system is opened when it is hot. Also, never check the radiator when the engine is running.
Locate the radiator cap. It should be in the center of the engine compartment, in the very front. Use a rag to remove it. Look down into the radiator and see if you can spot fluid. If it's near the top, you're in good shape. If not, you'll need to add some.
Engine coolant is added on a 50/50 basis -- 50 percent water, 50 percent coolant. Read the instructions on the coolant container for details.
You may want to also check the fluid level in the coolant reservoir. This is a plastic container just to the side of the radiator, with a hose connecting the two. It serves as an overflow receptacle for excess radiator coolant (since the fluid expands and contracts with heat). Pop the lid open and fill it about two-thirds of the way full.
Here's a more complete How To. on maintaining your cooling system.
How To Maintain Your Vehicle's Cooling System
Brakes. Like the transmission, the braking system is a sealed network. If it repeatedly gets low on fluid, you need to locate the source of the problem, either by yourself or with the help of a mechanic. A leaky braking system is nothing to play around with.
To check the fluid level, locate the brake fluid reservoir. It's usually in the engine compartment. If you can't find it, consult your owner's manual. Remove the lid and check the level. It should be at least two-thirds full. If not, fill to the "full" line with brake fluid.
Note: Avoid getting water in the braking system, at all costs. Therefore, do not do this procedure in the rain, unless in a garage or under an overhang.
Here are some Edmunds.com links about brakes and braking safety.
How To Change Your Brake Pads
Brakes: Drum vs. Disc
Keep Your (Braking) Distance: More Than Just Slowing Down
Battery. Some cars have what is called a "maintenance-free battery." This means the battery is sealed and should not be tampered with. You'll be able to tell right away, since the battery has a flat top with no openings.
Most cars, however, still utilize traditional battery design, with six cells that need occasional refilling. Access to the cells comes through six screw caps, or, more commonly these days, two rows of plastic caps that pressure-fit over three cells each. Either pry the caps off with a flat-head screwdriver, or unscrew the six caps.
It's best to fill battery cells with distilled water, since it lacks contaminants and trace elements that can cause a corrosive buildup around the battery terminals.
The battery cells should be filled to the bottom of the fill hole, no further.
CAUTION: Battery acid has sulfuric acid in it, which is highly caustic to skin and eyes. Wear eye protection and gloves when doing this procedure.
Here are some links to articles on batteries:
A Shocking Expose: Your Car's Battery
Jump-Start
Window Washer. Some newer cars and trucks now have a light that comes on to indicate when this receptacle needs refilling. It's typically located in the engine compartment, underneath the windshield. It looks a lot like the coolant overflow reservoir, but will be located closer to the rear of the engine compartment. Also, both of the caps will be labeled "coolant" and "windshield," or something similar, to distinguish one from the other.
Some vehicles, such as SUVs and minivans, may have a second receptacle, located in the rear of the vehicle, to supply the rear wipers.
If you're unable to locate these fluid reservoirs, consult your owner's manual.
Many people will augment the water in these receptacles with Windex or some other glass cleaner, to increase the cleaning power of the fluid. This is a particularly good idea in summer, when dead insects on the windshield can reduce visibility.
Air Conditioner. The average home mechanic doesn't have the tools or know-how to check this fluid level (which is actually a gas, not a fluid). We mention it here because it should be checked. Best to find a certified air conditioning mechanic to have this done.
Remember, maintaining proper fluid levels insures safe and trouble-free driving. It takes only a few minutes, and can often catch a problem before it becomes a crisis.
#3
12-10-2013, 04:12 PM
- Do You Really Need to Change the Transmission Fluid? - KickingTires
blogs.cars.com/.../do-you-really-need-to-change-the-transmission-fluid.h...
Jul 2, 2013 - Yes, though how often this service should be performed varies by ... Like other vital automotive fluids, transmission fluid deteriorates over time. ... When youtake your vehicle in for an oil change or other routine service, the ...
- How to Check the Fluids in a Car: 10 Steps (with Pictures)
www.wikihow.com › ... › Vehicle Fuels and Fluids
Learn to check your car's fluids yourself and do it often.... ... You should alsochange engine oil according to both mileage and time. Consult your owner's manual ..
#4
12-11-2013, 03:45 AM
Do you agree or Not ? Please post your thoughts
What do you think ? Yes/No to below
----------------------------------------------
Flushing fluids isnt just unnecessary, it's potentally dangerous.
autofoundry.com ^| 9/25/2013 | Jason Lancaster
Posted on 10/4/2013 1:21:16 PM by Signalman
Without trying to toot my own horn, I know a lot about cars. I understand how most items on a car function and how they fail. I know the difference between a 6 ply tire and a bias-ply tire; I can talk about the pros and cons of direct injection; I can argue in favor or against anti-lock braking systems, etc.
This knowledge frequently causes frustration when I take my vehicle in for basic services like an LOF (lube, oil, and filter), tire rotations, etc. and I’m “pitched” an unnecessary service item. While I know the service being pitched is a giant waste of money, the average consumer probably doesn’t know…and that makes me angry. Service professionals who recommend unnecessary services ought to have more respect for the consumer (and better ethics).
As a general rule, fluid flushes and/or replacements are unnecessary. Here’s a list of maintenance items that involve a fluid flush/replacement and guidance on whether or not to pay for each.
Power Steering Fluid Flush – These are rarely – if ever – necessary. Power steering fluid will become dirty and smelly over time, but it will remain functional for the life of most vehicles. Unless your vehicle manufacturer recommends changing this fluid (and very few of them do), or your power steering system is giving you trouble, there’s simply no reason to bother with a power steering fluid flush.
Brake Fluid Flush – Brake fluid is hydrophillic, which means it sucks up water like a thirsty camel. Brake fluid can even pull water out of the humidity in the air. As brake fluid sucks up moisture, it loses effectiveness. If it absorbs enough water, brake fluid can even “boil over” during normal use.
In light of brake fluid’s sensitivity to water, automakers go to great lengths to ensure your brake system is completely and totally sealed. Therefore, the average vehicle never needs replacement brake fluid. Unless you’re doing a LOT of heavy braking (racing, towing a heavy trailer on a regular basis, etc.), your brake fluid will last as long as the system remains sealed. It’s almost always unnecessary to flush brake fluid.
Coolant Flush – Many vehicles use long-life engine coolant, which has a typical life expectancy of 150k miles. Some still use “conventional” coolant, which only has a 30k mile life expectancy.
To determine if your car needs coolant flushes every 30k miles or every 150k miles, check your vehicle manufacturer’s scheduled maintenance booklet. Follow the interval suggested – no more and no less.
Automatic Transmission Service/Flush – Last but not least, automatic transmission services are often completely unnecessary. Most new vehicles use synthetic transmission fluid that can last the lifetime of the vehicle – meaning that you’ll never, ever, EVER have to change it. Just check your vehicle’s maintenance booklet…if you don’t see a recommended transmission service interval, than your transmission doesn’t need service.
NOTE: Another clue that your transmission doesn’t need service? There’s no transmission fluid dipstick under the hood. Most automatic transmissions with lifetime fluid are “sealed,” meaning there’s no way to change the fluid.
When I’m told by my local shop that my transmission needs flushed, and I reply that the transmission uses a lifetime fluid, the person I’m talking to will often tell me that replacing my transmission fluid “couldn’t hurt.” This is completely and totally incorrect. Replacing the fluid on a transmission that doesn’t require fluid replacement is a delicate procedure. If it’s done incorrectly, damage is likely.
If you take nothing else from this article, remember this: Unnecessary transmission service can cause transmission failure.
Beware “Power” Flushes – For a time, “power” fluid flushes were popular. The thinking was that forcing fluid through your vehicle’s transmission, cooling system, etc. would be more beneficial than simply draining and replacing fluid.
Unfortunately, it took a while for auto service professionals to recognize that “power” flushes often do more harm than good. Power fluid flushes have caused leaks in cooling, steering, and braking systems, and they’ve ruined thousands of automatic transmissions.
If your local shop wants to “power flush” something, find another place to get your service done. Power flushing is unnecessary, and in many cases it can cause a failure.
----------------------------------------------
Flushing fluids isnt just unnecessary, it's potentally dangerous.
autofoundry.com ^| 9/25/2013 | Jason Lancaster
Posted on 10/4/2013 1:21:16 PM by Signalman
Without trying to toot my own horn, I know a lot about cars. I understand how most items on a car function and how they fail. I know the difference between a 6 ply tire and a bias-ply tire; I can talk about the pros and cons of direct injection; I can argue in favor or against anti-lock braking systems, etc.
This knowledge frequently causes frustration when I take my vehicle in for basic services like an LOF (lube, oil, and filter), tire rotations, etc. and I’m “pitched” an unnecessary service item. While I know the service being pitched is a giant waste of money, the average consumer probably doesn’t know…and that makes me angry. Service professionals who recommend unnecessary services ought to have more respect for the consumer (and better ethics).
As a general rule, fluid flushes and/or replacements are unnecessary. Here’s a list of maintenance items that involve a fluid flush/replacement and guidance on whether or not to pay for each.
Power Steering Fluid Flush – These are rarely – if ever – necessary. Power steering fluid will become dirty and smelly over time, but it will remain functional for the life of most vehicles. Unless your vehicle manufacturer recommends changing this fluid (and very few of them do), or your power steering system is giving you trouble, there’s simply no reason to bother with a power steering fluid flush.
Brake Fluid Flush – Brake fluid is hydrophillic, which means it sucks up water like a thirsty camel. Brake fluid can even pull water out of the humidity in the air. As brake fluid sucks up moisture, it loses effectiveness. If it absorbs enough water, brake fluid can even “boil over” during normal use.
In light of brake fluid’s sensitivity to water, automakers go to great lengths to ensure your brake system is completely and totally sealed. Therefore, the average vehicle never needs replacement brake fluid. Unless you’re doing a LOT of heavy braking (racing, towing a heavy trailer on a regular basis, etc.), your brake fluid will last as long as the system remains sealed. It’s almost always unnecessary to flush brake fluid.
Coolant Flush – Many vehicles use long-life engine coolant, which has a typical life expectancy of 150k miles. Some still use “conventional” coolant, which only has a 30k mile life expectancy.
To determine if your car needs coolant flushes every 30k miles or every 150k miles, check your vehicle manufacturer’s scheduled maintenance booklet. Follow the interval suggested – no more and no less.
Automatic Transmission Service/Flush – Last but not least, automatic transmission services are often completely unnecessary. Most new vehicles use synthetic transmission fluid that can last the lifetime of the vehicle – meaning that you’ll never, ever, EVER have to change it. Just check your vehicle’s maintenance booklet…if you don’t see a recommended transmission service interval, than your transmission doesn’t need service.
NOTE: Another clue that your transmission doesn’t need service? There’s no transmission fluid dipstick under the hood. Most automatic transmissions with lifetime fluid are “sealed,” meaning there’s no way to change the fluid.
When I’m told by my local shop that my transmission needs flushed, and I reply that the transmission uses a lifetime fluid, the person I’m talking to will often tell me that replacing my transmission fluid “couldn’t hurt.” This is completely and totally incorrect. Replacing the fluid on a transmission that doesn’t require fluid replacement is a delicate procedure. If it’s done incorrectly, damage is likely.
If you take nothing else from this article, remember this: Unnecessary transmission service can cause transmission failure.
Beware “Power” Flushes – For a time, “power” fluid flushes were popular. The thinking was that forcing fluid through your vehicle’s transmission, cooling system, etc. would be more beneficial than simply draining and replacing fluid.
Unfortunately, it took a while for auto service professionals to recognize that “power” flushes often do more harm than good. Power fluid flushes have caused leaks in cooling, steering, and braking systems, and they’ve ruined thousands of automatic transmissions.
If your local shop wants to “power flush” something, find another place to get your service done. Power flushing is unnecessary, and in many cases it can cause a failure.
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