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6th Gen ('00-'05): What now??

Old Feb 6, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #11  
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Where you ever able to pinpoint where the buzzing is coming from?
 
Old Feb 6, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #12  
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Iwould start with making sure my grounds are good (as someone previouslymentioned).

Thenlook to the source of the buzz tracing.

Maybeyou can start pulling various fuses one at a time of things that might berelated in that area?
 
Old Feb 6, 2016 | 06:09 PM
  #13  
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the buzzing deff sounds like its coming from behind the cluster
 
Old Feb 6, 2016 | 08:24 PM
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I agree with montedd, and as I mentioned previously, check the grounds. Especially the ones in the engine compartment by the PCM and battery, and the battery cables. There's also a major ground on a stud connecting the transmission to the engine under the air intake duct. I recall you recently mentioning in another post, a rust problem on one of the fenders. That can also effect grounding. I've seen bad grounds cause buzzing of electrical components and weird dash problems like you're having. It might also be worth checking all the turn signal bulbs also.

A couple words of caution; disconnect the negative battery cable before you disconnect any ground wires. If you disconnect the one at the transmission you may have to do a security relearn procedure if the car doesn't start after it gets dis and reconnected.
 

Last edited by plumbob; Feb 6, 2016 at 08:55 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2016 | 07:07 PM
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ok, heres an update, so when the buzzing went off i put my finger on the hazard switch, i felt the vibration from the buzzing, when i pressed the hazard switch the buzzing stopped and everything acted normal, when i release the hazard switch the buzzing went back on, so my next thing is how hard is it to change the hazard switch?
 
Old Feb 15, 2016 | 08:54 PM
  #16  
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Easy!!!
It sounds like that's your problem. It's a relay and as I mentioned in one of the previous posts, relays tend to "buzz" when they start to fail.

Her's the part you need: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hazard-Warni...dVn9bC&vxp=mtr

Here's a video:

*I don't find it necessary to remove the upper and lower steering column trim panels. It requires an external Torx bit to remove screws. The dash panel is pretty flexible and I've always been able to bend and maneuver it enough to get it out, but with that being said "You are warned". If you decide to listen to me and it breaks, don't blame me. As they say in the show "Street Outlaws": "Just because I'm a dumb *** doesn't mean you can be too". Lol...Good luck.
 

Last edited by plumbob; Feb 15, 2016 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Added video
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:26 PM
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So just an update, today the buzzing happened then it stopped, then the air stopped blowing, (I had the heat on) couple seconds later it cut back on...still bcm?
 
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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Hi George.
The BCM has no control over the HVAC system (air). Sounds like a separate problem. If there's a problem with the BCM it will throw a code. I suggest you replace the hazard switch. It's a $24 part, 30 minute job that requires a 7mm socket to remove seven screws, and a small flat blade screwdriver to spread the clips that hold in the hazard switch, and check the wire connector to it. If the air problem continues check the wiring to the HVAC control module while the dash panel is off.
 
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by plumbob
Hi George.
The BCM has no control over the HVAC system (air). Sounds like a separate problem. If there's a problem with the BCM it will throw a code. I suggest you replace the hazard switch. It's a $24 part, 30 minute job that requires a 7mm socket to remove seven screws, and a small flat blade screwdriver to spread the clips that hold in the hazard switch, and check the wire connector to it. If the air problem continues check the wiring to the HVAC control module while the dash panel is off.

I'll order it friday, I'll also check the relays, how do I know if a relay is bad? It's different from a fuse I'm guessing?
 
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 07:35 PM
  #20  
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Most relays are about 1" square cubes usually located in the same place as the fuses. They can be tested with a multi-meter and you can hear them "click" when you turn on the switch for the component it serves.
 

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