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6th Gen ('00-'05): What now??

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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 01:29 PM
  #31  
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I believe it's dirty or worn contacts in the switch, There is a video of a guy taking apart the switch and described how he cleaned the contact points. Not sure if I'd do that. I'll see if I can find the video on Youtube and post it. The ignition switch is like a "hub" for the "Class 2 Serial Data Link" Which compares and relays information to the chip in the ignition lock cylinder, BCM and PCM. It's kinda' like Mission control preparing for a launch. They go through a check list before they say all systems go to launch. All data is compared in the serial data link including correct voltage. If anything is off, there will be a problem. Bad contacts could cause voltage inconsistencies. The "no start" problem, and weird dash displays are typical symptoms of a bad ignition switch. It is possible you have more than one problem, like a bad lock cylinder chip, but the symptoms seem to match the diagnosis.

Here's the video of cleaning the switch:
 

Last edited by plumbob; Mar 13, 2016 at 02:01 PM.
Old Mar 13, 2016 | 03:11 PM
  #32  
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yea, i would feel better with just a brand new one, im about to order one from rock auto, it should be here tuesday with next day delivery, you are very insightful and i hope this works
 
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 06:01 PM
  #33  
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ok so heres an update, came to check on the monte after work, i noticed the battery was dead on the gauge, ok so i jump started it, the rpms jumped then the engine stalled....that was for 30 secs. so i put the car back in the on position, and the gauges was acting as if i was turning the switch on and off rapidly, after that i noticed again the battery is still dead so i take out the alternator and battery just on a hunch, and got them tested batterey is good, alternator was bad. failed 3 of 3 times, so i got my back up but the pulley wont budge due to it sitting so long. i put some WD40 and will let it sit, if it wont move then ill get another 1 tomorrow, the ignition switch should arrive at my job tomorrow as well....also which should i go with a duralast altenator with lifetime warranty or a valuecraft with 1 year warranty
 
Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:13 PM
  #34  
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Not a big fan of AutoZone parts, but if you must I would do the lifetime warranty. I prefer ACDelco or Delco-Remy.
Low battery voltage makes the gauges jump arround like that and jump starting can damage electronics and should be avoided. Better to use a 'jumper box (portable charger).
 
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #35  
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ok, i'm hoping this will be my final update on this topic, so i got the alternator from autozone, its a delphi, same one that came out. got the ignition switch, i replaced them both and BOOM! start! i cut the car on 3 times and fired right up all 3 times, the turn signals worked how they suppose to as well, took it for a test drive and then cut on 2 more times...no more issues, i noticed that the old ignition switch had some black looking marks, where the lock cylinder connects. but thanks to all, who helped me with this issue, you guys are awesome and i'm glad i'm a part of this forum!
 
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:57 PM
  #36  
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awesome to hear it worked out well. complex machines have so many potential parts that can fail but some logical thinking can get you to the problem...eventually
 
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:54 AM
  #37  
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Ahh.....the sweet feeling of success. That should do it.
Seems like these ignition switch problems are becoming more and more common as our cars age.
Glad we could help George.
 




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