6th Gen ('00-'05): What now??
#1
02-01-2016, 08:03 PM
What now??
ok so this is the second time this has happened, i paid more attention to it today
so after starting the car and i drive for like 2 mins, there is a buzzing noise coming from the dash, the airbag light comes on, i noticed that the buzzing kept coming on, when i turned the turn signal up or down, then the service traction light comes on in the box. one time the battery picture also came on in the message box, eventually everything stops and goes back to normal, but what i wanna know is what is this, i dont want nothing to get worse to where i cant drive
so after starting the car and i drive for like 2 mins, there is a buzzing noise coming from the dash, the airbag light comes on, i noticed that the buzzing kept coming on, when i turned the turn signal up or down, then the service traction light comes on in the box. one time the battery picture also came on in the message box, eventually everything stops and goes back to normal, but what i wanna know is what is this, i dont want nothing to get worse to where i cant drive
#2
02-01-2016, 08:18 PM
Get scanned for a code man. Should show up in "History" even if it's not happening at that moment. Sounds BCMish, but could also be a relay, breaker or connection. You'll probably come up with a "B" code that should give some direction.
#3
02-02-2016, 09:27 AM
I would be replacing the ignition switch. I had all these symptoms plus the no start/security light issue and more. It's a pretty common problem with GM vehicles. I only had to replace the ignition switch itself, was able to reuse the original key cylinder. I think it was about $40 for a Dorman brand switch from Rockauto.com and it's a pretty easy DIY repair.
#4
02-03-2016, 05:43 PM
went to autozone to try and have it scanned, and nothing came up, also nothing but a pending p0410 code, thats the first time this code came up in a while, this code always pops up and i can never find out why
#5
02-03-2016, 05:44 PM
so, ive noticed so far that this only happens when i first start the car and drive for like 3 mins, but also ONLY when i use the turn signal, ive replaced the multifunction switch twice before but nothing like this happened when they failed before
#6
02-03-2016, 07:51 PM
OK then. Lack of a code should rule out the BCM, unless it's a bad connection to it.
As jim1405 mentioned, it could be the ignition switch. I've heard of similar symptoms caused by a bad ignition switch, although the difference in the cases I know of are symptoms included starting problems making it necessary to wait several minutes between starting attempts or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. And an air bag symbol or turn signals were not included in the symptoms, but a "security light was. That's not to say cases may differ though. The battery symbol is like a "general electrical" problem notification. The problem with the ignition switch is worn out or dirty contact points causing arcing which could cause a buzzing sound. I suppose if different contacts are effected they could show different symptoms. I suggested a relay or breaker previously because they tend to buzz when they wear out. The turn signal symptom makes me consider the hazard switch, although the typical symptom for that is erratic or fast blinking, or no blinking at all. Again, symptoms could differ though.
I suggest focusing on exactly where the buzzing noise is coming from. Start by narrowing it down to the area (left, center or right) If you figure that out I believe it would be the source of the problem. I would also not rule out a bad ground wire connection in the engine compartment. There's a major ground wire on the driver side inner fender by the PCM and another by the battery on the passenger side inner fender.
BTW, code P1410 is "Fuel Tank Pressure" and I believe you replaced your fuel pump in November. You may need to have that left over (History) code cleared with a scan tool.
As jim1405 mentioned, it could be the ignition switch. I've heard of similar symptoms caused by a bad ignition switch, although the difference in the cases I know of are symptoms included starting problems making it necessary to wait several minutes between starting attempts or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. And an air bag symbol or turn signals were not included in the symptoms, but a "security light was. That's not to say cases may differ though. The battery symbol is like a "general electrical" problem notification. The problem with the ignition switch is worn out or dirty contact points causing arcing which could cause a buzzing sound. I suppose if different contacts are effected they could show different symptoms. I suggested a relay or breaker previously because they tend to buzz when they wear out. The turn signal symptom makes me consider the hazard switch, although the typical symptom for that is erratic or fast blinking, or no blinking at all. Again, symptoms could differ though.
I suggest focusing on exactly where the buzzing noise is coming from. Start by narrowing it down to the area (left, center or right) If you figure that out I believe it would be the source of the problem. I would also not rule out a bad ground wire connection in the engine compartment. There's a major ground wire on the driver side inner fender by the PCM and another by the battery on the passenger side inner fender.
BTW, code P1410 is "Fuel Tank Pressure" and I believe you replaced your fuel pump in November. You may need to have that left over (History) code cleared with a scan tool.
Last edited by plumbob; 02-03-2016 at 08:30 PM.
#7
02-04-2016, 05:26 PM
OK then. Lack of a code should rule out the BCM, unless it's a bad connection to it.
As jim1405 mentioned, it could be the ignition switch. I've heard of similar symptoms caused by a bad ignition switch, although the difference in the cases I know of are symptoms included starting problems making it necessary to wait several minutes between starting attempts or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. And an air bag symbol or turn signals were not included in the symptoms, but a "security light was. That's not to say cases may differ though. The battery symbol is like a "general electrical" problem notification. The problem with the ignition switch is worn out or dirty contact points causing arcing which could cause a buzzing sound. I suppose if different contacts are effected they could show different symptoms. I suggested a relay or breaker previously because they tend to buzz when they wear out. The turn signal symptom makes me consider the hazard switch, although the typical symptom for that is erratic or fast blinking, or no blinking at all. Again, symptoms could differ though.
I suggest focusing on exactly where the buzzing noise is coming from. Start by narrowing it down to the area (left, center or right) If you figure that out I believe it would be the source of the problem. I would also not rule out a bad ground wire connection in the engine compartment. There's a major ground wire on the driver side inner fender by the PCM and another by the battery on the passenger side inner fender.
BTW, code P1410 is "Fuel Tank Pressure" and I believe you replaced your fuel pump in November. You may need to have that left over (History) code cleared with a scan tool.
As jim1405 mentioned, it could be the ignition switch. I've heard of similar symptoms caused by a bad ignition switch, although the difference in the cases I know of are symptoms included starting problems making it necessary to wait several minutes between starting attempts or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. And an air bag symbol or turn signals were not included in the symptoms, but a "security light was. That's not to say cases may differ though. The battery symbol is like a "general electrical" problem notification. The problem with the ignition switch is worn out or dirty contact points causing arcing which could cause a buzzing sound. I suppose if different contacts are effected they could show different symptoms. I suggested a relay or breaker previously because they tend to buzz when they wear out. The turn signal symptom makes me consider the hazard switch, although the typical symptom for that is erratic or fast blinking, or no blinking at all. Again, symptoms could differ though.
I suggest focusing on exactly where the buzzing noise is coming from. Start by narrowing it down to the area (left, center or right) If you figure that out I believe it would be the source of the problem. I would also not rule out a bad ground wire connection in the engine compartment. There's a major ground wire on the driver side inner fender by the PCM and another by the battery on the passenger side inner fender.
BTW, code P1410 is "Fuel Tank Pressure" and I believe you replaced your fuel pump in November. You may need to have that left over (History) code cleared with a scan tool.
you mean p0410? it always says seconday air injection system when i scan it, i have no idea on how to fix it, but ive made a video on whats happening so hopefully it will help, i will post shortly
#8
02-04-2016, 05:57 PM
Sorry Owens, guess I went temporarily dyslexic and misread your code. I did mean P1410, but I see now you said P0410. Looking forward to the vid.
Here's a thread I found on P0410: https://montecarloforum.com/forum/mo...unction-54416/
Here's another: https://montecarloforum.com/forum/en...nt-long-46636/
I know the secondary air pump would be required for emissions in California and New York, not sure about PA.
Here's a thread I found on P0410: https://montecarloforum.com/forum/mo...unction-54416/
Here's another: https://montecarloforum.com/forum/en...nt-long-46636/
I know the secondary air pump would be required for emissions in California and New York, not sure about PA.
Last edited by plumbob; 02-04-2016 at 06:19 PM.
#9
02-05-2016, 07:16 AM
Are you sure it was the air bag symbol? SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM is displayed with the ABS light. It is a problem with one of the pickups in a hub. The entire hub needs to be replaced or a broken wire fixed. The only way to read the code is with an ABS capable code reader. It will tell you what wheel is throwing the code.
As far as P0410, check the fuse for the secondary air pump FIRST. It is a 30 amp fuse in the lower fuse panel on the right wheel well. Water gets in the pump. It freezes. The fuse blows. Sometimes the pump is ruined. It is easy to replace after you take out the left headlight. The check valve is also replaced at the same time. Check Rock Auto for reasonable prices. The dealer charged me $700 years ago for a new pump and check valve. Last week I had to replace the fuse after extended freezing weather.
As far as P0410, check the fuse for the secondary air pump FIRST. It is a 30 amp fuse in the lower fuse panel on the right wheel well. Water gets in the pump. It freezes. The fuse blows. Sometimes the pump is ruined. It is easy to replace after you take out the left headlight. The check valve is also replaced at the same time. Check Rock Auto for reasonable prices. The dealer charged me $700 years ago for a new pump and check valve. Last week I had to replace the fuse after extended freezing weather.
Last edited by steveinri; 02-05-2016 at 07:20 AM.