I was given warning that front pads are about to be gone. About 3 mm left to go. (Anyone have an idea approx how many miles left I would have out of 3mm)?

To be ready to work on replacing pads and rotors on 07 ss, I would like to have all specific tools before I start to work on my car.

Yes, I'll be using C-clamp to press cylinder back into caliper.

Any suggestions or hint to make work easier? Any warnings or head-ups?

Many thanks!

 

There's a T30 torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub, if it is rusty, have PBlaster ready and let it soak before trying to get it loose. You do NOT want to strip that screw!

The rest is just 15MM bolts I think? Piece of cake.

 

I think a 15mm socket for the caliper bolts, 17mm for the caliper bracket, and a decent sized c clamp to push the piston back in plus taking the wheel off is all you truly need for a break job. (Considering tools only factor)

Ps. I don't have that T30 rotor bolt chibi mentioned on my car so I can't speak for every monte on that part.

 

Thanks.

Habibie - Yeah I didn't need that many for my old 03... No torx screw, i remember...

 

The Torx was on my Father's 06 SS, took us a minute to figure out why the rotor wasn't popping off when I took the caliper off

 

3mm huh? i would replace them a lot sooner than later. anything under 4mm should be highly recommended to change them on the front. back pads, meh, i would go almost all the way down since there is actually very little braking that happens from the rears.

brake pad failure typically happens in that under 4mm range on the fronts.


if this were me, i would be changing them this weekend. i've had a pad disintegrate on me when they were this low. i was about 40 miles from home. lets just say, i didnt try to stop much because i couldn't.

 

I thought so. I haven't seen it but its what service guy tell me. I was like 3mm.. Hmm shouldn't it be already gone and start to feel scratches on rotors...


I guess he's bs'ing me into buying their brake job...

But I asked guy about how many miles i have left .. He said 10k miles

 

Try and get them done sooner than 10k. Reason I say is it's still summer and weather is forgiving when doing brake jobs but when winter hits you'll be regretting it you didn't do it earlier. Plus new brakes do help just in case the ******* infront of you decides to brake check you and you're brakes fail, well you know the moral of the story..... (There are many A-Holes out there, I deal with at least 10 guys a day who like to brake check me with me driving the company's F350 towing. 53ft trailer so I'm just saying)

 

3mm is still 1/8" thick, so there is still some "meat" to them. i wouldnt be shocked if you got 10k miles from that, however, the thinner the pad, that higher the risk of failure becomes.

when good ceramic pads only cost $25or less, i wouldnt wait to put them on.

Powerstops are only $21-$23 plus shipping at rockauto.com before any discount codes are used. they also carry powerslot drilled and slotted rotors for $50ea before discount codes.


thats ~$125 after discounts/shipping for PowerStop ceramic pads and PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors. pretty easy decision to do it right away in my opinion.

 

I am planning on replacing pads and rotor by end of sept...

I'm used to replacing my truck's pads and sometimes rotors during late winter/early spring... Always every 2 years at around 50k. I have no idea why I end up needing to replace them at that time... :-(

So sept would be a lot better than my usually late winter/early spring..

I'm leaning toward to brake performance's premium rotors bec of lifetime warranty including warp. And EBC's red pads. I still prefer Hawks'. It don't have MC in the listing unless it consider impala the same for MC... Will call Hawks customer service next week.