The tire pressure for everyday driving should be set at 32psi at all times. Trust me I use to not only managed a Firestone but also raced a little too. With the tire being over inflated it ends up pulling up on the outside walls of the tire. Which may cause your tire to wear uneven. Same thing happens if you have ever watched a Drag race with top fuel cars, the tire expands outwards from centrifugal force, but in your case the tire is already espanded due to excess amout of internal pressure. By having to much pressure in the tires all the time you are not running the correct contact serface on the ground, it's just the middle which is touching and not the whole tire . Depending on how long the tires have been like this they can also be seperated due to the amount of excess pressure on the internal bans/cords of tire. It could also be some loose end parts like the other guys have suggested to. Best way to check those is to jack up the front end and shack the time both vertically and horizontally. You should feel a little play if something isn't tight.

Good Luck
Fox

 

kool thanks i will change it and also check the ball joints etc....
thanks again

 

Not all cars require 32 PSI. The sticker on my car (and a lot of GMs) calls for 30. Granted, the difference between the two won't cause any problems, but still, other brands require 38-44 PSI.

 

30 must be an average. my guess would depend on your weather. The DIC has had my tires as low as 26 in cooler weather and as high as 35 when the days are over 90. I would say that the colder your area, the slightly higher above the recommended 30 you go. Where is our Firestone Manager Guy Member at?

 

actually looking at it tonight it says 38-44 psi on the side wall . this is why i had it at 40psi. figureing spliting the distance.

but i also have non stock tires on the car. and i figured out the issue I have a good frend here that is a G.M. mechanic back in the states and he did the checking on the front end for me and found out that when they did the allingment that they didnt get the bolts and nuts tight enough and the front end of the car was wondering back and fourth in and out of allingment. but not so far i could feel it .

he said i would have probbly just corrected it as if i hit a uneven spot int he road.

so we got it all tightend back up and the G.M. fools here swear they didnt do anythign to the car so we took it to a audi dealer here and they heard him out and did another alinment on the car and it is fine now.
And ge tthis they are looking in to replaceing the tires for me all away round the car becuse it was do to the dealer that this caused permature tire wear on my car.

So i hope we can do it!!

 

I'm talking about factory recommended pressures, not actual pressures. Yes, the actual pressure in the tire will depend on temperature (as temperature increases, so does pressure). That is one reason not to run a tire at it's maximum rated pressure. If a tire is rated up to 45 PSI for example, and you fill it with 45 PSI, the pressure will increase when you drive and could possibly cause a problem.


As for the "bolts and nuts not being tight enough to hold the alignment", that doesn't make sense. Even if your tie rod jam nuts were loose, the tie rods (which adjust toe) are not going to turn themselves. And if the strut bolts were left loose (which adjust camber), then you would definitely hear it clunking around.

 

i remeber talking about a poping in the wheel. but now it is not there anymore at all.

not sure but this is what they said to me i know motors not suspention .

at least not on this thing. if it was a old car i would have a chance to figure it out on my own i think

 

Ok now, if you are running a factory tire 225/60/16 which is the factory spec size tire, the pressures that I was talking about it common on all of the same size ( even performance )I am running a SO3 pole position radial drag on my MC. If you are running a larger size rim or different tire then that may be different. And the tires that you have the uneven wear patterns on now won't get any better. I would just burn them up and buy new ones.

 

this is the idea actually i plan to attempt to get to the states first. but till then i will runn them as long as i can. legaly. if it get to snowing to bad i might have to change them out due to traction. but other wise if it is on the boat before the snow flies i will ge tthem after we get to the states.

 

SEt the tires at 30 psi. 44 psi is the max that tire is designed to hold, not what the car was built to handle with. Most midsize gm cars all run 30 psi front and back. I do alignment and suspension work on cars for a living. Id be willign to bet all the parts are good if it was recently aligned. You cant align a car that has bad parts, and if they did beat there ***. With that said i take alot of pride making sure a care ive aligned is right when it leaves my shop. Once in a blue moon you get one that comes back just days later with toe out an unglodly amount. All new machines are run by computers.....glictches are possible. Id take it somewhere where they do alignment checks for free, ask them to check it and if its out get a print out and take it back where you had it done. You should have a warrnaty on it anyways and if its decent shop they wont hassle you. MC's are very easy cars to align there toe and go unless it needs cam bolts, also very common in the rear on those cars since they start to squat and camber goes negative pretty fast, but it take a alot of camber to wear a tire and in a short amount of time it sounds like you have a toe issue. I hate seeing people get ****ed on there cars, wish i could be in many places at once sometimes to help. Let me knwo what you find out