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6th Gen ('00-'05): Replacing steel braided brake lines

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Old 12-28-2016, 03:25 PM
dave11's Avatar
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Default Replacing steel braided brake lines

I've been looking all over for this answer--maybe I'm just dense.

Got a 2002 MC SS that has never seen snow/salt, yet it's original brake lines are corroded, but only in places where they bend tightly, or where they are clamped. One is leaking, so I'm gonna replace them all, front to back, with NiCopp.

All of the lines under the hood have one or more bends in them though that are steel braided. These seem to be in good shape.

So does this mean I can't replace everything with NiCopp, since there won't be enough flex in the bends? I'm assuming that's why the steel braided bends are there.

Do I need to use double flare unions on each line, from the braided lines on out?

Am I missing something?

Thanks.
 
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:44 PM
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I have done a lot of GM brake lines. Anywhere that you flare to connect to a GM fitting/connection is a bubble flare. When is comes to a union, if you are supplying the union, you must use a fitting and flare that works for that union (I think every one I did was a bubble flare).

I am not 100% certain, but I am not sure the braid flex line is really flexible line vs it's a nice cover. If it is a flex line, I bet it was for install convenience only. The only flex lines I believe these cars require are the rubber flex lines going from the metal line to the caliper. Outside of that, the lines should remain stationary.

Something to consider before you go too deep into this. On some of my past cars, I have replaced large sections of brake line, but left a good chunk of factory line. Most of the time it's the line dropping from the brake booster to the underside of the car. The reason is I'll need a union no mater what (I am not good enough to mold one long line), so why not keep good line and just replace the bad half is my theory. Might help as you plan out this job.
 




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