X2.. 6th Gens are usually 13mm or 15mm, never seen one with a 14mm.

 

First - I'd be nervous about heat around the bolt. Even though you are doing an oil change, I'd be concerned about the oil heating up. But IF you do use heat, a propane torch should be fine. Heck, if you melted the rubber drain plug seal may be enough to assist.

Second - ANY socket you try, 6 point socket ONLY! A 12 point is going to make this FAR worse. I would try hammering on a socket that is a bit "tight" on that bolt and see what you can do. *IF* there is ANY flat material, it may hold, a quick yank on a ratchet (possibly with a pipe on it) and it may come free.

Third - I personally think a Dremel and vice grips are you best bet. If there are NO flat spots left on the bolt, as mentioned, the Dremel can help you make new ones. I have learned, I have two different seats of vice grips. They do NOT work equally. One set, the jaws/clamp has a small "arc" to them (Harbor Freight orange handle set). The other set, Craftsman, the jaws have NO arc. Both are great sets, but you tend to learn when works for what applications. The spring, I learned the Craftsman set is my vice grip of choice for releasing stubborn brake line fittings (act fast, proper usage and no damage to the fitting). So if you have one style of vice grips and it's rounding more (I suspect they have an arc in the jaws), get the other set.

And lastly, NEVER re-use questionable hardware and remember, that drain plug does NOT have to be monster tight.

 

Second they make a socket for stripped bolts that is like a reverse drill bit on the inside and digs into the bolt as you loosen it here is a link to what I am talking about you may have tried this already Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

 

I like the set that johnboyp92 posted but i have never used it before. It looks like there is a lot of good suggestions in this thread already but I'll add a few Ideas anyway First and foremost make sure you are turning it the right way. I know it sounds simple enough but sometime when you get upside down and backwards under a vehicle it can get confusing. If you dont have a dremel tool or any type of grinder you could try metal file. You should be able to pick up one for a few bucks.
I have also used a socket that was a little bigger than the rounded fastener and put it on with some Emory cloth or sandpaper between it. Sometimes it will give you the grip you need to crack it loose. Good Luck.

 

If you have to go to a shop, they can usually just remove and replace the bolt for you + let them do the oil change. Not a big deal so you don't have to waste a lot of money buying tools you might not ever use again.

My 98 Camaro had a stripped oil pan nut too. I just had my local mechanic take care of it with a quick oil change for $20

 

I'm overwhelmed by the amount of replies, I appreciate it, all of you.

I decided to put off the oil change for a few days and just do some audio wiring to get ready for my new setup (lots of black friday purchases, i'll have to make another thread about it next weekend). I'm kind of liking Chibi's idea, might just take it to the guy that does my exhaust and see if he's got some power tools and a torch handy to pop it off (plus he has a lift!! ) getting these cars on ramps is such a pain.

Lots of good stuff though guys, I'm grateful for your time and advice.

 

If you know a guy you trust, that's had to beat!

 

I should point out that I already had the oil since I bought it to do the oil change, then couldn't get the nut off lol

 

Even at that, $20 is still reasonable for dealing with the headache of getting a stripped bolt out like that. Luckily (knock on wood), I have never had an issue with a drain plug bolt.

 

Had some drain plugs look like that at work , Welded a nut on then removed it an installed new one..