Rack and Pinion, Rear Hubs
#1
10-15-2014, 11:30 AM
Rack and Pinion, Rear Hubs
Hi everyone, I'm back!
So today I have a few Questions,
Fisrt, has anyone replaced their Rack and Pinion in their driveway? Is it a hard job? It has a leak and I need to replace my Power steering box as well.
Second, I think I read on here that the rear hub assemblies are a Bear to replace. I only have one bad but I want to replace both. I'm doing the fronts at the end of the month, along with the front passenger side on the wife's Altima. That one has to be pressed in
I have a few other things to do on both cars before winter sets in. But the above are the most pressing!
The Mrs. wants to learn to maintain her car, so I am going to be in teaching and mechanic mode with each repair.
Thanks for the help!
So today I have a few Questions,
Fisrt, has anyone replaced their Rack and Pinion in their driveway? Is it a hard job? It has a leak and I need to replace my Power steering box as well.
Second, I think I read on here that the rear hub assemblies are a Bear to replace. I only have one bad but I want to replace both. I'm doing the fronts at the end of the month, along with the front passenger side on the wife's Altima. That one has to be pressed in
I have a few other things to do on both cars before winter sets in. But the above are the most pressing!
The Mrs. wants to learn to maintain her car, so I am going to be in teaching and mechanic mode with each repair.
Thanks for the help!
#2
10-15-2014, 04:25 PM
I never changed a rack and pinions but I have changed a high pressure line to mines and that by its self was a pain. I would imagine it will be hard because I think things like the hubs and some suspend has t O be removed
#3
10-15-2014, 06:59 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
I've never done rear hubs, but my father did them on his '08 Impala (which I believe is the same exact set up as our Montes), if I recall, he had no big deal with them.
I've changed the rack on a couple of cars, never a W-body (like our Montes), but I have sized up the job on a '97 Grand Prix (another W-body). If you have the tools and time, it's not great, but it's not horrible. Make sure you have time and probably an extra set of hands helps!
First advice, if the high low pressure lines are original, expect high odds that you will need to change them (a lot of times this fittings get corroded). As George mentioned, those lines can be a bit of a pain, the connections for them on the steering rack are tight to get to (at least on a '97 Grand Prix).
Useful tip: when messing with things like brake and power steering lines, if the line is a lost cause, cut it at the fitting, then you can put a socket on it to get the fitting out.
Anycase, here's what I see needs done:
- Inside the car, secure the steering wheel! If you rotate/free spin it too much, you could damage the clock spring (did that on accident to a '94 Grand Am). I believe GM has a provision on the Monte that can lock the column (I read a blurb about it after I took my dash out and back in a couple years back). Not sure if it's legit or not (I secured my steering wheel with a couple bungee cords).
- Remove the lower trim under the driver side of the dash. You will see a boot for the steering shaft, pull it back. There is an angled piece called the "intermediate steering shaft" (ISS). There is a bolt that holds it clamped on the steering rack and another on the shaft from the steering column. It might be easiest to remove the entire ISS.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Disconnect the steering lines going to the rack.
- Disconnect the outer tie rods from the steering shaft. You can separate it from the knuckle with a pickle fork, but I have become a BIG fan of Harbor Freight's ball joint separator. Also, plan on replacing these (especially if they are still original).
Tip: the factory tie rods are held in using a nut with a nylon insert. That thing can be a pain to remove and will probably bust the ball joint out of place and the joint will free spin. Before attempting to remove that nut. use a propane torch (like one commonly used for plumbing work). Heat the nut with the propane torch, the nylon will melt out of it. Once it's melted, the nut is a lot easier to remove (after you let it cool).
- Next, there are two nut/bolt set ups holding the rack to the sub-frame. Remove them.
- Pull the rack down from the firewall, have a friend help guide it out of the car (as the tie rods will probably want to snag on wires and such).
The hard part with any rack I've done so far, getting it to line up with the steering column (you have such a tight space). One car we removed the column completely, as it was easier to seat the rack that way and drop the column back on the rack then it was to push the rack on the column. This is why I stated removing the ISS might make it easier (admittedly, the cars I've done racks on, did not have an ISS).
I hope that helps!!
I've changed the rack on a couple of cars, never a W-body (like our Montes), but I have sized up the job on a '97 Grand Prix (another W-body). If you have the tools and time, it's not great, but it's not horrible. Make sure you have time and probably an extra set of hands helps!
First advice, if the high low pressure lines are original, expect high odds that you will need to change them (a lot of times this fittings get corroded). As George mentioned, those lines can be a bit of a pain, the connections for them on the steering rack are tight to get to (at least on a '97 Grand Prix).
Useful tip: when messing with things like brake and power steering lines, if the line is a lost cause, cut it at the fitting, then you can put a socket on it to get the fitting out.
Anycase, here's what I see needs done:
- Inside the car, secure the steering wheel! If you rotate/free spin it too much, you could damage the clock spring (did that on accident to a '94 Grand Am). I believe GM has a provision on the Monte that can lock the column (I read a blurb about it after I took my dash out and back in a couple years back). Not sure if it's legit or not (I secured my steering wheel with a couple bungee cords).
- Remove the lower trim under the driver side of the dash. You will see a boot for the steering shaft, pull it back. There is an angled piece called the "intermediate steering shaft" (ISS). There is a bolt that holds it clamped on the steering rack and another on the shaft from the steering column. It might be easiest to remove the entire ISS.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Disconnect the steering lines going to the rack.
- Disconnect the outer tie rods from the steering shaft. You can separate it from the knuckle with a pickle fork, but I have become a BIG fan of Harbor Freight's ball joint separator. Also, plan on replacing these (especially if they are still original).
Tip: the factory tie rods are held in using a nut with a nylon insert. That thing can be a pain to remove and will probably bust the ball joint out of place and the joint will free spin. Before attempting to remove that nut. use a propane torch (like one commonly used for plumbing work). Heat the nut with the propane torch, the nylon will melt out of it. Once it's melted, the nut is a lot easier to remove (after you let it cool).
- Next, there are two nut/bolt set ups holding the rack to the sub-frame. Remove them.
- Pull the rack down from the firewall, have a friend help guide it out of the car (as the tie rods will probably want to snag on wires and such).
The hard part with any rack I've done so far, getting it to line up with the steering column (you have such a tight space). One car we removed the column completely, as it was easier to seat the rack that way and drop the column back on the rack then it was to push the rack on the column. This is why I stated removing the ISS might make it easier (admittedly, the cars I've done racks on, did not have an ISS).
I hope that helps!!
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