Please help me with this radiator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,590
From: Mentor, Ohio
As I recall, the drain ***** on these Montes is a 19mm socket. I wonder if hand tightening is not enough (I've used a ratchet and gently snugged mine).
But you say there is NO sign of coolant by the drain ****. Next thought it maybe a hose or hose clamp???
But you say there is NO sign of coolant by the drain ****. Next thought it maybe a hose or hose clamp???
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9
Ok so here is the latest on this problem I seem to be having on my monte. The drain **** is tight, now if you look at the bottom of the radiator there are these two "nipples" is the best I could call them one on each side of the radiator but they sit on top and through the rubber cussion that keeps the radiator off the bottom rail. So these "nipples" stick through those cussions and point to the ground out of those two "nipples" the one bellow the drain **** is the one leaking. Now if you look into the "nipple" you can see the drain **** be screwed in and if you look in the other "nipple" you don't see anything. So the best quess I can come up with at this time is like some sort of "presser relief valve". When I look at a radiator on line I can see those two "nipples" in the photo but can not find out what they are for.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,590
From: Mentor, Ohio
I have not removed a W-Body radiator, but if it's like others I have worked with, those radiator "nipples" you mention are probably nothing more then plastic (that has NO coolant in it) molded off the side tanks to use as guides on the rubber cushions.
The radiators GM uses do not have a pressure relief in any area other then the radiator cap itself.
Your leak points on a radiator can only be:
- Drain ****
- hose
- coolant level sensor (I believ on the opposite side of the radiator)
- Gasket/mating between the plastic side tanks and the metal core of the radiator
- Crack/Hole/Failure of the plastic side tanks or the metal core
If you have not done so, go to the parts store, get a loan-a-tool of a radiator pressure tester. Hook it up and pump the pressure to 13lbs (or just under the rating on the cap). With the engine cool, look/listen for leaks. Since the engine is not running, you should be able to find the source of your problem (it will be bubbling or spraying out somewhere and sometimes you can here it hissing).
It might also be worth hosing off the radiator and rail, wipe dry to "clean" up the surface so you are not looking for the problem by following old possibly unrelated coolant residue.
But since this is happening after a flush with no prior history, I still wonder if the drain **** is messed up. But get the radiator pressure tester, I think that will be you best and safest bet to find the leak.
The radiators GM uses do not have a pressure relief in any area other then the radiator cap itself.
Your leak points on a radiator can only be:
- Drain ****
- hose
- coolant level sensor (I believ on the opposite side of the radiator)
- Gasket/mating between the plastic side tanks and the metal core of the radiator
- Crack/Hole/Failure of the plastic side tanks or the metal core
If you have not done so, go to the parts store, get a loan-a-tool of a radiator pressure tester. Hook it up and pump the pressure to 13lbs (or just under the rating on the cap). With the engine cool, look/listen for leaks. Since the engine is not running, you should be able to find the source of your problem (it will be bubbling or spraying out somewhere and sometimes you can here it hissing).
It might also be worth hosing off the radiator and rail, wipe dry to "clean" up the surface so you are not looking for the problem by following old possibly unrelated coolant residue.
But since this is happening after a flush with no prior history, I still wonder if the drain **** is messed up. But get the radiator pressure tester, I think that will be you best and safest bet to find the leak.
I had to replace my radiator..My "plastic" tanks were cracked....
Just replace it and be done with it....
Happens from time heat and compound of the tank brittleness...
Just replace it and be done with it....
Happens from time heat and compound of the tank brittleness...
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 401
From: Lawrenceburg, TN
When you open the drain **** on the radiator, those holes allow any fluid on that rail drain off (so it does not just sit there).
If you were not leaking fluid prior to this, either:
- the drain **** is still open
- you damaged the drain **** by over tightening
- you damaged the radiator from over tightening
Sometimes you can get lucky and that drain **** is replaceable (the one on my wife's '01 Mustang broke because the plastic was brittle, Dorman had my fix in the Help! isle of the parts store).
Try looking at the drain **** with a mirror.
As for fluid coming from those holes, you just need to look where it's coming from. What part of the radiator (when starting dry) is wet. Again, those holes just prevent fluids from collecting and pooling on that rail, nothing more.
FYI - The car came from the factory with Dex cool in it. If Dex is not flushed regularly, it will begin to look thick maybe oily. Some switch over to green coolant, either way you MUST STILL flush regularly!! If you don't the properties of what ever coolant you choose to use will break down and corrosion might take place. Remember, the coolant is ALSO a lubricant to things like your water pump!
If you were not leaking fluid prior to this, either:
- the drain **** is still open
- you damaged the drain **** by over tightening
- you damaged the radiator from over tightening
Sometimes you can get lucky and that drain **** is replaceable (the one on my wife's '01 Mustang broke because the plastic was brittle, Dorman had my fix in the Help! isle of the parts store).
Try looking at the drain **** with a mirror.
As for fluid coming from those holes, you just need to look where it's coming from. What part of the radiator (when starting dry) is wet. Again, those holes just prevent fluids from collecting and pooling on that rail, nothing more.
FYI - The car came from the factory with Dex cool in it. If Dex is not flushed regularly, it will begin to look thick maybe oily. Some switch over to green coolant, either way you MUST STILL flush regularly!! If you don't the properties of what ever coolant you choose to use will break down and corrosion might take place. Remember, the coolant is ALSO a lubricant to things like your water pump!
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 41
From: Las Vegas
Is this not it? I have an '05 SS as well, and this comes up as a fit for mine.
https://smile.amazon.com/Complete-20...et+Monte+Carlo
https://smile.amazon.com/Complete-20...et+Monte+Carlo
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 41
From: Las Vegas
I'm trying to decide whether to flush or replace as well. I have an '05 SS, and I just discovered a world of sludge when I took off my rad cap. I want to replace it anyway, but I want to make sure I flush out all the junk from the rest of the engine before I put a new one in. The main problem I have is I now live in an apartment complex that frowns on people working on their cars.
I didn't think I would miss having a garage as much as I do now.
I didn't think I would miss having a garage as much as I do now.
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 401
From: Lawrenceburg, TN
I'm trying to decide whether to flush or replace as well. I have an '05 SS, and I just discovered a world of sludge when I took off my rad cap. I want to replace it anyway, but I want to make sure I flush out all the junk from the rest of the engine before I put a new one in. The main problem I have is I now live in an apartment complex that frowns on people working on their cars.
I didn't think I would miss having a garage as much as I do now.
I didn't think I would miss having a garage as much as I do now.