L36 intake manifold replace wiring problems
#25
Im not going anywhere, I need this site now. Im going for 500k on this car and plan on passing down to my kids in 20 years. Just for reference, what all I did this go around was:
1)New upper intake manifold plenum + gaskets
2)New PCV valve
3)Lower intake manifold gaskets
4)Cleaned fuel injectors
5)New vacuum fittings
6)Cleaned MAF sensor
7)Cleaned and Re-oiled the air filter
8)New oil and oil filter
9)Fresh coolant
10)New Rear valve cover
11)Front valve cover gasket
12)New serpentine belt
13)New radiator
14)New spark plugs and wire set
1)New upper intake manifold plenum + gaskets
2)New PCV valve
3)Lower intake manifold gaskets
4)Cleaned fuel injectors
5)New vacuum fittings
6)Cleaned MAF sensor
7)Cleaned and Re-oiled the air filter
8)New oil and oil filter
9)Fresh coolant
10)New Rear valve cover
11)Front valve cover gasket
12)New serpentine belt
13)New radiator
14)New spark plugs and wire set
#27
Thats love for the MC, she has shown me 200k+ miles of driving excitement, its the least i could do. Plus, total for parts and a case of Corona, it only ran about $500. Thats only a little more than a car payment. All i need now is to get this "system too lean code" figured out, some brake pads and a rotate and balance and she will be 100%.
#29
Absoultely. First off, at idle it would surge and jump between 800 and 1500 rpms, the temp would spike periodically because of the air getting pulled into the system, and I would also get a stutter at accelleration. Now so far, smooth idle (even with AC blowing), running around 175 degrees constant, and accellerates like she used to when she was under 100...brings a tear to mine eye. I havent puched the gas pedal yet, trying to break her in slowly. Im going go back under the hood this weekend and make sure all bolts tight and everything still in place. Think I may change the oil again to make sure no coolant in it.