Ok, I'll just consolidate everything here to help out others. The installation was actually VERY easy with the right tools.
Thanks to everyone who helped me out!

torque specs(taken from the instruction sheet):
3 top mount bolts: 30 ft/lbs
Center shock bolt: 63 ft/lbs
2 knuckle bolts: 90 ft/lbs

What I used:
14mm socket(snug fit) for 3 top bolts
13/16 deep socket (snug fit) for knuckle bolts
T45 torx bit
Crowfoot socket 22mm/ 7/8"; a oxygen sensor socket works surprisingly well too(impact grade) OEM PN# 25249
(found in most oxygen sensor wrench loaner tool sets from Autozone)
Strut spring compressor (usually a loaner tool) Tool takes a 3/4 socket/wrench to tighten/loosten
1/2 drive torque wrench (the big guy)
1/2 drive breaker bar
1/2 drive ratchet & 3/4 drive ratchet
Metal mallet (a air hammer will make it easier..)

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First, jack the car up (don't forget the e-brake) on both sides, remove the wheels. Nothing really needs to be moved out of the way. Turn the steering wheel so that the nuts on the bottom of the shock tower are facing outward(easier to access)
Use the 13/16 socket + breaker bar to break the nuts loose, switch to the ratchet and unscrew the nut. Leave the nut on the last few threads so its even with the end of the screw. The screw has splines on it so it won't just come out. This is your point were you start whacking! Start with the top bolt & put a jack underneath the control arm to keep it level. If the first couple of hard swings doesn't break the bond loose, spray the inside with a little PB Blaster and spray the edges of the knuckle. Give it a few more swings until it pops loose. Remove the nut and tap it again to knock it out. Do the same for the last. The steering knuckle should lean forward or wedge something in between the shock tower & knuckle to separate.
Keep the jack underneath to hold everything up so you don't stress out your brake hose.
Unscrew the top 3 bolts under the hood on the shock mount (14 mm socket) but don't remove them. Leave enough space to wiggle the shock tower loose. Once broken free, hold the shock tower in one hand, the other to unscrew everything up top. Once those 3 nuts are loose the tower will come right out.

Now that you have the tower out, its up to you if you want to change it. I would highly recommend getting a ready mount shock kit (comes with mount & coil pre-installed) If you do have a ready mount kit then just install backwards from here. All torque specs are listed above. If you are just doing individual things please continue reading.


Take the spring compression tool and place it on opposite sides. Make sure you use the safety locks!! Compress the coil evenly, do equal turns on each side (lets say you do 5 full turns on one side, stop and do the same to the other.) compress it enough to have a little wiggle room with the mount. Once you do, take the t45 torx (a 2 inch extension will help) and the crowfoot socket to the top nut. Once you remove that nut everything will come off.
If you are just changing the coil springs I would highly recommend inspecting the strut mount, any signs of rust/dry rot/ and if the bearing doesn't sound 'smooth' I would just buy a new mount kit. If the shock has over 65-70,000 miles on it you might want to change it too.
Here is a diagram of what part goes where. On the mount there should be a little 'bump' on the rubber part of the mount. The first plastic piece (#4 in diagram)) that goes on should have a 'v' slot. meet both the bump & the 'v' together.


When you install everything backwards, make sure when you seat the coil spring, place it the same way you found it. (if using old shocks, the rubber bushing on the bottom will have a indent of where the spring is. If not a new bushing will have a little 'tab' for the spring. follow with the old shock to line everything the same way.) Same thing goes for lowering springs. Make sure everything lines up perfectly. Once again, keep each side of the spring compressor even to prevent the coil from jumping out(also dangerous too!) You may need to compress the coil seperatly until you have enough room to screw the center shock bolt on. Hand tighten. Decompress the coil spring and make sure everything is seated properly. Once you are able to remove the compression tool, tighten the center nut tight. Place the strut assembly back in the same way you took it out & make sure the mount is in the same position as before. Hold the strut with one hand, the other to hand tighten the top 3 nuts. Lube up the splines on the knuckle bolts with some white lithium and 'feel' for the spline alignment. Once good, give it a light tap to insert into the knuckle & screw the nut in on the other side to close the gap.
Install everything tight & do a final tighten with a torque wrench to make sure everything is to proper specs.(the most important part!!!!!)

Quick tip: if the mounts came with little clear sleeves over the top 3 mount bolts, cut in half and place over the threads after install as a temporary protector.

I only changed my front strut mounts... 90% of the noise is gone, the intermediate shaft may need some lube..

 

There's an exploded view of the assembly here:

STRUT ASM/FRONT. Fits: Allure, Century, Century CUSTOM 4 DOOR, Equinox, Grand Prix, Impala, Impala o, Intrigue, LaCrosse, Lumina, MONTANA APV... | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick

 

Lol , your a real hands on Monte owner. Good luck on the swap out. Very nice upgraded suspension your doing, probably long overdue. Now don't go out and get yourself a ticket while you enjoy "Testing" your Monte's high speed cornering abilities.

 

I've done struts before. There are typically 2 bolts at the bottom that can be a paint to remove. They have a spline that makes them difficult to remove. I recommend having access to an air impact gun, air hammer and a small propane torch.

What I've done in the past, loosen those 2 nuts, then heat the head of the bolt with the torch. Let the head cool (this expands and loosens their bond). Us the air hammer to push the bolt out (have the nuts in a spot to prevent the threads from getting messed up if the air hammer strays (u could also try using a minisledge, but the air hammer is the way to go).

 

Lol, its more like I'm broke and can't afford to go to the mechanic Not going to GM nationals on a creaking suspension.

 

thats perfect! Thanks!

 

You doing struts too or just the mounts?

 

Just the mounts for now. Struts have to wait, buying a set of 4 kyb adjustables.

 

Nice diagram

 

I wouldn't waste the money on the adjustables, I had em on my Camaro and did nothing for the handling no matter the setting I had em on, imo there a waste