7th Gen ('06-'07): Engine won't turn over/crank. Battery + Alternator Good
#1
Engine won't turn over/crank. Battery + Alternator Good
As the title says, my Monte Carlo LS won't even turn over when trying to start. Just hear the click of what I'm assuming is the starter, the fuel pump, and that's it. The dashboard lights just go dim when trying to turn on/crank and I get a SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM notification. Only way to get it running is jumping it, which I use my Jump-N-Carry JNCAIR 1700-Amp 12-Volt Jump Starter with Power Source and Air Compressor.
After the jump there are no warning lights or a SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM notification and car runs normal. Sometimes able to turn off and turn car on again right after jump and so far I’ve been able to turn on normally within an hour after driving. But this is not consistent, basically have to jump every time to get going.
I've checked the battery voltage and it shows 13.4 V - 13.8 V while car is off. I've tried starting the car with just the installed battery and also just with the backup battery I use to jump it connected to the battery terminals and no start/crank/turn over. So I don't think it's the battery.
I replaced the alternator (potentially prematurely ) and still no turn over.
I have the car's Haynes book but the pictures in it are not detailed enough to guide me through checking through the electrical system.
Other little details to take note of: I blew out the 12V lighter outlet trying to use a car vacuum that was given to me as a gift. Tried to replace that fuse in the fuse box by the passenger foot but as I plugged in the spare fuse spark flew and killed the spare. I’ve had the blend door and hot/cold air actuators fail/clicking really loud. Couldn’t really reach the blend door actuator so just unplugged it while in recirculation mode. I was going to replace the hot/cold air actuator but noticed after I unplugged the ‘broken’ one and was trying to align the new one with the position of the actuator ****, whenever I would switch the temperature to hot that the actuator would not stop turning until after about 2 minutes or so (obviously the source of the loud clicking).
Other than it being the battery or alternator, I’ve read online it could be the ignition/starter relay fuse or the BCM. Not sure what it could be and would greatly appreciate any advice/suggestions that would ideally help to avoid paying any/more money than I already have ($300 for new alternator + installation labor).
Thanks in advance.
Amazon.com: Jump-N-Carry JNCAIR 1700-Amp 12-Volt Jump Starter with Power Source and Air Compressor: Automotive
After the jump there are no warning lights or a SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM notification and car runs normal. Sometimes able to turn off and turn car on again right after jump and so far I’ve been able to turn on normally within an hour after driving. But this is not consistent, basically have to jump every time to get going.
I've checked the battery voltage and it shows 13.4 V - 13.8 V while car is off. I've tried starting the car with just the installed battery and also just with the backup battery I use to jump it connected to the battery terminals and no start/crank/turn over. So I don't think it's the battery.
I replaced the alternator (potentially prematurely ) and still no turn over.
I have the car's Haynes book but the pictures in it are not detailed enough to guide me through checking through the electrical system.
Other little details to take note of: I blew out the 12V lighter outlet trying to use a car vacuum that was given to me as a gift. Tried to replace that fuse in the fuse box by the passenger foot but as I plugged in the spare fuse spark flew and killed the spare. I’ve had the blend door and hot/cold air actuators fail/clicking really loud. Couldn’t really reach the blend door actuator so just unplugged it while in recirculation mode. I was going to replace the hot/cold air actuator but noticed after I unplugged the ‘broken’ one and was trying to align the new one with the position of the actuator ****, whenever I would switch the temperature to hot that the actuator would not stop turning until after about 2 minutes or so (obviously the source of the loud clicking).
Other than it being the battery or alternator, I’ve read online it could be the ignition/starter relay fuse or the BCM. Not sure what it could be and would greatly appreciate any advice/suggestions that would ideally help to avoid paying any/more money than I already have ($300 for new alternator + installation labor).
Thanks in advance.
#3
Tried O'Reilly once...
I stopped by O'Reilly last night to get the battery checked, but the dude told me that the battery didn't have enough voltage to be tested. Said it was reading 11.6 V
This morning before taking off to work I measured the voltage, my multimeter gave me a reading of 18.something. I tried to start it and measured again, gave me 14.something. Still have to jump to turn on.
I'm thinking of getting a Battery Tender?
This morning before taking off to work I measured the voltage, my multimeter gave me a reading of 18.something. I tried to start it and measured again, gave me 14.something. Still have to jump to turn on.
I'm thinking of getting a Battery Tender?
#4
you NEED a new battery before you kill the new alternator prematurely from making it work 3 times as hard once the car is running to keep a charge in a dead battery!
#6
Final update!
Went to O'Reilly and got a battery. Turns out the battery I bought my Monte with back in 2013 was still under warranty. Battery was originally bought in November 2012.
Installed new battery right then and there. Able to turn on car perfectly. Got them to run electrical test to see how everything else was doing. Alternator passed with 14.4 V and starter passed.
So, $300 dollar lesson to check the battery with load test + any existing warranty before jumping to any other conclusions.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Installed new battery right then and there. Able to turn on car perfectly. Got them to run electrical test to see how everything else was doing. Alternator passed with 14.4 V and starter passed.
So, $300 dollar lesson to check the battery with load test + any existing warranty before jumping to any other conclusions.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Last edited by adrpibgal; 10-06-2015 at 01:44 PM.