The part I'm missing is how you're certain it's bad when the car clearly has serious electrical issues besides the battery. Not saying the battery isn't bad also, but I dont see how it could be diagnosed when attached to a broken electrical system. If you were positive the battery was bad, then why even try having it jumped by aaa?

I'm just saying at most places it's not up to the customer to decide if the battery is bad or not otherwise everyone would bring their batteries back for freebie replacements whenever they felt like it.

No better or worse than any other place that sells batteries made on the same production line. They obviously don't make batteries and are unusual in that they switch between OEMs, but previous manufacturers have been Johnson Controls, East Penn, and Exide - those same companies supply just about every auto parts store too.


I didn't say you were doing that, my point was that its not typically the customer's call to pronounce a battery bad and get paid for it / get a free replacement. Theres a test for that to confirm or deny if the battey is bad. If they just took the customer's word, then anyone could take a battery back at any time

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Either way - good luck to you on solving the issue.

 

Sorry about that last message , Was not feeling to good and frustrated as well .

Bought a charger and car started no problems , Dome light went on , Nothing seemed shorted . After battery went full I put it on trickle charge for a few days and its reading 14.0 volts . Battery seems fine . I drove the car around and all was good , I had also ordered a cheaper OBD scanner , I should have left this alone but after trying this scanner , Put my foot on the brake and noticed it was not stiff and all of a sudden went to the floor , lights came on for Abs and tracking control followed by service your engine soon. I thought the scanner did something and messed up the car , It does not have any ABS controls . So ordered a bludriver with app on phone . Before trying it out , I checked some basic stuff , A fuse had blown on the ABS , fuses on driver side door , replaced . Nothing still no breaks. Looked at fluid , looks dirty , does not seem low . (no leaks on the floor) . Today hooked up the higher quality scanner and gave me a bunch of codes with possible fixes . U1040 module wiring harness , C1245 speed sensor connector , C1247 , fluid level switch , C1298 Control module and last B1000 this I'm not sure about . Car runs great , But now need it towed for the breaks . I know my breaks line were rusted years ago . But figured I would not own the car anymore , Now have had it 24 years and it still runs good , But all new break parts and then might as well get rotors calipers and pads for front , flush , new brake fluid etc... , Also get the Fuel filter replaced that's rusted on . probably in the $3k range . From a possible bad battery to car running perfect to a huge repair , Not sure if its worth it , Just paid for my plate sticker at $171 with a late fee . was hoping to get a couple more years out of it .

I'm a gluten for punishment, I thought the grommet was missing from the Map sensor which is why I thought it flew off when the battery was low and had the poof of smoke , then wouldn't stay started , I got the new rubber today and realized its still intact on the old one but pulling it off broke it . Tried crazy glue , Nope car wouldn't stay running . Ordered a new map sensor .

 

I got the car running pretty good but can't seem to figure out why the brakes would go out completely , Goes all the way to the floor with abs and traction control lights on and pressing the tracking button doesn't do anything , Complete loss of breaks all of a sudden , No leaks anywhere that I can see .Fluid doesn't look low but does look dirty

It started when I was pumping the break which felt not as tight and lights just came on and breaks are gone . I like to know a little of what possible could of happened before I take it in for repairs .

 

The grommet you speak of... There should be two of those. One on the MAP sensor and one IN the intake manifold.

 

oh , makes me wonder if that's not what shot off and caused the smoke , Nothing on the manifold to be found . I can't find anything other then the map sensor was not connected . Bought a new map sensor and it runs fine . It does jiggle a bit , not on super tight . thanks for letting me know .