Cruise and Heat Broke!!!! Please help
ok i've done countless hours of searching on the net for the problem that my car has been having, and i was just on the impala forum because they are the same car as ours just a different body. and alot of those cars are doing the same thing as mine, and i mean to the tea. cruise light on, heater/ac not working, message center on the roof not working. and people on there said and have gotten the problem fixed and they said it is 100% the ignition switch causing the problems. so now my question is would you guys go with what everyone is saying and just replace it, and not go pay a shop 100 bucks just to more then likely tell me that it is bad.
http://www.2carpros.com/index.htm
Give this site a one last try before proceeding to a $100 diagnosis if you haven't already. They can be very helpful. But, I hope you inform the forum when and if you find a solution.
The intermittent problems of BCM's and ignition switch failures can be very similar at times.
The site I quoted has a backlog of Monte problems and solutions or you can pose the question directly.
Give this site a one last try before proceeding to a $100 diagnosis if you haven't already. They can be very helpful. But, I hope you inform the forum when and if you find a solution.
The intermittent problems of BCM's and ignition switch failures can be very similar at times.
The site I quoted has a backlog of Monte problems and solutions or you can pose the question directly.
well its that time of the year again, i took my car out from its 5 1/2 month nap and i still havent got my problem that i was having with it since last summer, with the heater/ac and auto tinting mirror and cruise control, and the over head compass not working when i first start the car up, and it turns on mins later after the car has been running. and im thinking about going down to the shop with it on thursday and finding out what the problem is with it. and i just wanted to ask one last time if anyone would or does know if it could be a bad ingition switch. the chevy dealer said they would charge me 40 bucks to find out what the problem is, and if it is the ingition 340 bucks out the door to fix the problem, so any insite would be great. one more thing i just came across this " When this happens check for power on the cruise and hvac fuse-if its dead,no power you have a intermittent ignition switch" can someone tell me what this means and how i can check that my self, so maybe i can get away without having them test anything just replace the bad ignition.
Last edited by Justin; Mar 16, 2010 at 09:41 PM.
well its that time of the year again, i took my car out from its 5 1/2 month nap and i still havent got my problem that i was having with it since last summer, with the heater/ac and auto tinting mirror and cruise control, and the over head compass not working when i first start the car up, and it turns on mins later after the car has been running. and im thinking about going down to the shop with it on thursday and finding out what the problem is with it. and i just wanted to ask one last time if anyone would or does know if it could be a bad ingition switch. the chevy dealer said they would charge me 40 bucks to find out what the problem is, and if it is the ingition 340 bucks out the door to fix the problem, so any insite would be great. one more thing i just came across this " When this happens check for power on the cruise and hvac fuse-if its dead,no power you have a intermittent ignition switch" can someone tell me what this means and how i can check that my self, so maybe i can get away without having them test anything just replace the bad ignition.
I know this is an old thread but to you Googlers looking for an answer I hope I can help. I had the same problem. The hvac, DIC, and cruise would work intermittently after the car had been on for a while. Sometimes it would cut off while I was driving, sometimes it wouldn't come on at all, and then it stopped coming on all together. Living in the Midwest and winter creeping up on us, that was a big problem.
After some research I felt like everything was pointing to the ignition switch. I found a wiring diagram online for the ignition switch and the orange wire coming out of ignition switch powers the hvac, DIC and cruise. If your ignition is in the "on" position you should get a reading around 12 volts if the ignition switch is working properly. If you have no power, the switch is likely bad (as mine was).
I was concerned about the passlock system (theft deterrent) killing the car after replacing the switch. I emailed our local dealer and the switch itself is not tied into the passlock system. The ignition tumbler/cylinder is however. So no reprogramming or security relearn procedures are necessary. (You do have to remove the cylinder from the switch which can be done by pressing a release button under the tumbler, turning the cylinder to the on position and pulling the cylinder out)
I replaced with a Duralast switch as the AC Delco have known problems. It cost 90 bucks after tax and was quoted $196 for the part from the dealer.
Hopefully this will help anyone that is experiencing the same problems... which is how I found this forum to begin with... You can save yourself a lot of money by doing this yourself if you have a bit of do it yourself knowledge. Feel free to message me with any questions.
After some research I felt like everything was pointing to the ignition switch. I found a wiring diagram online for the ignition switch and the orange wire coming out of ignition switch powers the hvac, DIC and cruise. If your ignition is in the "on" position you should get a reading around 12 volts if the ignition switch is working properly. If you have no power, the switch is likely bad (as mine was).
I was concerned about the passlock system (theft deterrent) killing the car after replacing the switch. I emailed our local dealer and the switch itself is not tied into the passlock system. The ignition tumbler/cylinder is however. So no reprogramming or security relearn procedures are necessary. (You do have to remove the cylinder from the switch which can be done by pressing a release button under the tumbler, turning the cylinder to the on position and pulling the cylinder out)
I replaced with a Duralast switch as the AC Delco have known problems. It cost 90 bucks after tax and was quoted $196 for the part from the dealer.
Hopefully this will help anyone that is experiencing the same problems... which is how I found this forum to begin with... You can save yourself a lot of money by doing this yourself if you have a bit of do it yourself knowledge. Feel free to message me with any questions.
I know this thread is quite old so you might not get an answer from the original poster but I can tell you that my car had the exact same issues and it WAS the ignition switch. I just replaced it last week and have had no more issues at all. Hope that helps!
Hello,
I hope this helps.
I changed the Ignition Switch. 95 dollars or so from Autozone.
Problem: Climate Control and Cruise Control doesn't work.
Solution: Replaced Ignition Switch.
How I got to this solution:
-Checked the fuses for the HVAC and Cruise. Found on the Left hand fuse panel.
-Took the dash apart to get access to the Left hand fuse panel. Determined that an orange number 10 wire supply the main power to the left hand fuse panel. Trace the orange wire back to the ignition switch. Remove the 2 bolts holding the ignition switch in place and pulled it down so I could use the DMM on it. At the ignition switch the red wires supply the constant 12.8 or so volts. With the ignition switch on, the orange wire was putting out 11.48 volts. So, I took a digital picture of the left hand fuse panel to remember where all the fuse go. Then proceeded to remove all the fuses from the left hand fuse panel. This is what I did, you could probabley just start with HVAC and Cruise fuse. I notice that these two circuit appear to cause the voltage draw. The volt to the left hand fuse panel should be 12 + voltage. I won't bore you with the rest, but after change, test, and replace many fan motor circuit parts, and 1 month of playing around. The ignition switch fixed both problems. Now on to other problems, like the power seat
I hope this helps.
I changed the Ignition Switch. 95 dollars or so from Autozone.
Problem: Climate Control and Cruise Control doesn't work.
Solution: Replaced Ignition Switch.
How I got to this solution:
-Checked the fuses for the HVAC and Cruise. Found on the Left hand fuse panel.
-Took the dash apart to get access to the Left hand fuse panel. Determined that an orange number 10 wire supply the main power to the left hand fuse panel. Trace the orange wire back to the ignition switch. Remove the 2 bolts holding the ignition switch in place and pulled it down so I could use the DMM on it. At the ignition switch the red wires supply the constant 12.8 or so volts. With the ignition switch on, the orange wire was putting out 11.48 volts. So, I took a digital picture of the left hand fuse panel to remember where all the fuse go. Then proceeded to remove all the fuses from the left hand fuse panel. This is what I did, you could probabley just start with HVAC and Cruise fuse. I notice that these two circuit appear to cause the voltage draw. The volt to the left hand fuse panel should be 12 + voltage. I won't bore you with the rest, but after change, test, and replace many fan motor circuit parts, and 1 month of playing around. The ignition switch fixed both problems. Now on to other problems, like the power seat
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