Crank no start
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Get smoggeed on Saturday, passed no issue. Smog tech starts and stops it multiple times
Sunday try to start it up and it won't start.
Engine cranks, feels like it wants to start and doesn't. 3 years ago I replaced ignition switch and cylinder with Dorman parts. (symptoms of that issue was it wouldn't crank at all so I replaced both to be sure). Ignition cylinder was recoded to my OEM keys.
This time instead of no cranking I do have cranking. I have fuel (hear the pump, and PSI at the schrader valve is 50psi), the battery is good as I swapped out the battery for a new one (under warranty), but I still have no start. Tried the 30+ minute relearn process didn't work. Wiped down key and tried to start, no luck. Check engine light is on when key is set to ON.
However, battery light is on with alternating security, after I attempt to start and fail only the battery light is on. Check for spark using an old school spark tester with a gap not the fancy one with a light, no spark.
So looks like I have no spark, I'm guessing from the security it's the passlock system being a bit*h and wishing I did the security bypass back 3 years ago. So I'm going to guess the ignition switch is bad, it's got a 5 year warranty so that's not too bad, the ACDelco only gives 12 months for 3x the price (very sad). If that fails what else might give no spark but cranks (ignition cylinder, BCM, anything else).
Hate to pay $250 for a diagnosis or more no idea waht the dealerships charge in San Diego haven't been to one since my driver window was smashed in years ago, learned my lesson then.
Sunday try to start it up and it won't start.
Engine cranks, feels like it wants to start and doesn't. 3 years ago I replaced ignition switch and cylinder with Dorman parts. (symptoms of that issue was it wouldn't crank at all so I replaced both to be sure). Ignition cylinder was recoded to my OEM keys.
This time instead of no cranking I do have cranking. I have fuel (hear the pump, and PSI at the schrader valve is 50psi), the battery is good as I swapped out the battery for a new one (under warranty), but I still have no start. Tried the 30+ minute relearn process didn't work. Wiped down key and tried to start, no luck. Check engine light is on when key is set to ON.
However, battery light is on with alternating security, after I attempt to start and fail only the battery light is on. Check for spark using an old school spark tester with a gap not the fancy one with a light, no spark.
So looks like I have no spark, I'm guessing from the security it's the passlock system being a bit*h and wishing I did the security bypass back 3 years ago. So I'm going to guess the ignition switch is bad, it's got a 5 year warranty so that's not too bad, the ACDelco only gives 12 months for 3x the price (very sad). If that fails what else might give no spark but cranks (ignition cylinder, BCM, anything else).
Hate to pay $250 for a diagnosis or more no idea waht the dealerships charge in San Diego haven't been to one since my driver window was smashed in years ago, learned my lesson then.
Last edited by xpage; 08-28-2019 at 11:17 PM.
#2
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you have a 00-05 and the security indicator is on, you are right, this sounds like it is Passlock. I know there are a few different security re-learn processes floating around. I attached the one from the actual shop book. Important part to remember, NEVER take the key out. If so, you end up starting the process over.
Passlock on the 00-05 is made up between the PCM, BCM and the lock cylinder (not the ignition switch). The chip for Passlock is in the lock cylinder (not the key, the key is a simple blank key).
Hope this helps a little to get you going again.
Passlock on the 00-05 is made up between the PCM, BCM and the lock cylinder (not the ignition switch). The chip for Passlock is in the lock cylinder (not the key, the key is a simple blank key).
Hope this helps a little to get you going again.
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Maniac. My other vehicle was stolen on Thursday so was dealing with that for awhile, not fun at all. Luckily it turned up on Saturday but was missing the aftermarket radio (not even a touchscreen one, wow who steals those anymore) and some minor typical things you keep in the car were also missing. Now I'll sweat a bit in the sun to get this job done... after I put in a kill switch for my other ride. Busy week for me
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It could be the passlock system.
Other possible issues for crank/no start are a bad crank sensor or ignition module. But that security light is a good indication it's the ignition switch.
Other possible issues for crank/no start are a bad crank sensor or ignition module. But that security light is a good indication it's the ignition switch.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
switched out the switch. Tried the relearn procedure 2x, still no crank. Now I'm guessing it's the passlock on the cylinder, the old ignition switch looked fine, no corrosion on any pins as far as i could see. Rockauto doesn't seem to have the old dorman ignition cylinder with pins to rekey my car, so it'll be interesting what they do for my return as it's under warranty. Looks like the car will sit for a few more days. If that fails and I still have the security light then I'm guessing BCM.
I appreciate the advice and tips
I appreciate the advice and tips
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i switched out the ignition cylinder, definietly a different type of no start along with security light flashing. However, after the relearn procedure i still get a crank, no start. Checked for spark off all ignition coils using the front spark plugs and a spark tester. No spark still.
i looked at the relays and they seem fine. So next steps are the crank shaft position sensor, any way to test it out before i get to work on it? BCM could be the issue, or maybe the ICM?
i looked at the relays and they seem fine. So next steps are the crank shaft position sensor, any way to test it out before i get to work on it? BCM could be the issue, or maybe the ICM?
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The answer is a bad ICM. SYmptoms, truns but won't start then, you see battery light and security light alternating. Security went away after 10 minutes. $130 at the local shop to diagnose, wanted $450 more to replace, $250 part, $189 labor. I knocked it out with a $150 part from Oreillys (didn't want to wait for rockauto to deliver next week, else would have been $100).
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a good crank. Spark. Injectors not shorting out. Replaced outer ignition switch but not cylinder. Car still only cranks. Fuel pump or Bcm. I also have 50 psi on prime from fuel pump. Been working on this car for 7 months. See other posts. I really need help. I dont want to replace a bcm of fuel pump I dont need.