I doubt it's the timing chain, but I'll take a look soon. I know it's not a bad ground, I have triple checked all of them because that's what I initially thought after the ICM died. I'll try to find a way to test the crankshaft this weekend.

 

Someone post the schematic of the inputs at the ign module.
You are looking for circuit 430. Typically this is a purple wire with a white stripe, although the schematic is needed to verify this.
Key on engine off, connect your test light to the positive battery terminal and "tickle" 430 with the test light probe. You should get spark and injector pulse, and if you do then its time to focus on the crank sensor and wiring.

 

I have the file PaternDayTrader is referring too , if you get me your e-mail address I could send it too you. He is right on {circuit #430} ( being purple/white as being low resolution engine speed signal. (Circuit 573) yellow wire is CKP sensor {1} signal and (circuit 1800) Lt blue/white wire is CKP sensor {2} signal . You should also check the black wire with white tracer for ground {circuit 451 } the pink wire for ignition voltage {circuit 239 }and the white with black tracer {circuit 644 } is the 12 volt reference . Good luck

 

So it turns out my PCM is not programmed to the VIN. Funny how I was told it was ready to just be installed without any more work when I bought it, and now they are telling me it needs to be programmed in my car. Are they bull****ting me?

 

Sorry, I have been out of this thread and getting caught up.





Were you told this PCM was pre-programmed? If the PCM is "blank" then it does need a program installed and the VIN set into. Odds are if you bought the PCM from a part store, it's not programmed for anything.




I'm not familiar with a method to test for spark with a screw driver and a wrench. Can you explain a bit more or do you have a YouTube link that explains this? Just curious if there is another trick I could use in the future.

 

Not, that's not BS. The pcm has to have your VIN programmed in or the car won't run.

 

Ive been talking to The_Maniac, who's been super helpful so far.

They originally told me it was programmed when they sold it to me, asked for my VIN and everything. Now a mechanic (that I trust) is diagnosing it as an unprogrammed PCM. Call the place that sold me it. Their story now changes to "we didn't program it because we need the car to do so (which I have been informed is total BS, they don't need it)." They also told that to the mechanic, so the mechanic has been trying to find a place that can program it locally, but none exist anywhere near me. So I'm just gonna have one sent to The_Maniac, because he does a programming service.

 

Yea, needing the car to program the pcm is BS. they only need the chip and the VIN.

 

Admittedly, I don't know if GM made a harness to program a PCM without the car. I built one myself from parts from the junk yard. This allows me to reprogram a PCM with my DHP PowrTuner out of the vehicle. Not hard to build, but if GM did not feel a need to program the PCM out of the vehicle, they never would have made such a tool/harness.

 

Well regardless of whether that was BS or not... AES gave me the wrong PCM. Not only did they fail to program it, it's not even the right model.

Swapped the PCM with one from ZZP (they offer a stock one on eBay). Still crank/no spark, so having the mechanic just use their tech 2 to find the problem since it isn't throwing any codes. I bet it's gonna be crankshaft.

Also a lesson for everyone here that I learned the hard way: Double, triple, and quadruple check your grounds. Don't fry a bunch of stuff because you missed a ground wire.