Radiator cap is cheap insurance. You can get a new one for like $10.

Just don't forget to bleed the system afterwards.

 

Ok new problem I changed the rad cap water pump and stat and now its over heating only on the e way not on the street but there is a leak in the radiator but it does not over heat when the stat is out

 

I have some things I speculate. Your symptoms remind me of the issue my '94 Grand Am had when I blew a head gasket. It would appear my coolant was "boiling", but it wasn't, my cooling system was over pressurized, as with the head gaskets bad, it was pushing gases from the cylinder into the cooling system.
During my issue, I kept bleeding air from the system (as people told me I must have an air pocket). For a WEEK I carried the wrench to open the bleeder, when it began to overheat, pull over, leave car running, bleed air. I knew after this occurred more then once, this was NOT my problem (the problem was where did the air come from). In my case, If found when my temp gauge began over heating, my heat from the blower was NOT hot (during winter, that's pretty noticeable). The issue was the T-stat responds FASTER to hot fluid, the air pocket was sitting on the T-stat and keeping it closed too long and the temp gauge had a slightly incorrect reading (the car was never over heating).

NOW, in your case. . .
Without a T-stat, the cooling system keeps moving coolant and possible air pocket through the system, with that in mind, your temp gauge does not get a "bad" reading as the result of hot air.
With the T-Stat in, if you have gases building up, the T-Stat does not open properly and the near by temp sensor is responding the air pocket NOT the coolant temp (hence the temp issues).
The coolant boiling may not be boiling, if this is a headgasket, it's the system being over pressurized and the pressure has to go somewhere (I eventually blew the gasket on the side tank to the radiator in the Grand Am as a result).

When you first start the engine after it has sat over night, check if you are letting out clouds of white smoke for a short time (some say they smell sweet too due to the anti-freeze). If so, signs are very suspect to head gasket.

 

And you are right my friend. We found out last night that I have a crack in the head gasket we ran some sealant in the system till I can get it fixed

 

I found out my problem i have a crack in my head gasket

 

be very carefull with that stuff i seen it ruin alot of engines

 

what i mean when there is a remander of it if it didnt bond with some thing it ends up blocking a water jacket just keep a eye on it

 

I don't use "Bars Leak" (that powdery crap to fill pin holes) and I really don't trust any of the "Fix Head Gasket" in a bottle solutions. Also, I get concerned that stuff may gum up something in the system (know people that screwed their heat cores that way).

On the 3100/3400 v6, head gaskets are no big deal. I've never done head gaskets on a 3800, but been close enough to that area, I would say they are probably easier then the 3100/3400.

FYI - When you buy your gasket sets, get the aluminum lower intake gaskets for your re-assembly. The nylon ones are junk. Aluminum is the way to go.

 

Thanks monte 07 & manic for the advice won't run it thru again just that one time

 

Sup guys ! Its been awhile since my last posts, so here are my updates . 1. Got new head and intake manifold gasket 2. New timing belt. 3. The reason there was fuel in the in the line from the fuel pressure regulator after the car was shut off was because it was faluty got a new one of those also 3. My car delveloped a very rough idle I changed both gakets within the throttle body (the one in side of it and the one that connects the TB with the intake manifold) which brought back the smooth idle it also helped with that problem I had upon start up but not entirely it used to rev up to about 3 or 4 rpms between 2-3 times it now only does it once and only during a cold start it starts normally if its still warm after being driven all advice is appreciated