Catalytic COnverter change
#21
Thanks for the reply! I will let the shop check it out but if it's a repair I can do then I will do it myself. But let's say if it was the cat, do I just replace it with another cat or I have to have the downpipe and numorous of other parts to install as well? I just don't wanna have a DIY project at home and run into a perfessional welding project that I don't have.
#22
Well... Your best bet is to get the down pipe with a cat and a ubend delete as a whole. You can get these bolt on.
However
If you go the route of getting just the cat, you can cut out the downpipe and ubend and get a clamp-on cat. This is not preferred because that is where leaks will happen plus you'll still have that ever so restrictive ubend. Welding is much better.
Bite the bullet and get a high flow cat with down pipe and ubend delete. You'll notice a difference.
However
If you go the route of getting just the cat, you can cut out the downpipe and ubend and get a clamp-on cat. This is not preferred because that is where leaks will happen plus you'll still have that ever so restrictive ubend. Welding is much better.
Bite the bullet and get a high flow cat with down pipe and ubend delete. You'll notice a difference.
#23
Thats what I will do then, get the whole setup instead of looking towards a weld. But first I gotta see what the shop says because I am now noticing while driving today that I am loosing power.
Plus, right when I bought the vehicle from the dealer, after test driving it was fine but while I drove it off the lot, thats when my power was SHOT. So of course they replaced the cat and it lasted this long from Aug 06' to July 2012'.... How long do they suppose to last?
Plus, right when I bought the vehicle from the dealer, after test driving it was fine but while I drove it off the lot, thats when my power was SHOT. So of course they replaced the cat and it lasted this long from Aug 06' to July 2012'.... How long do they suppose to last?
#24
Losing power is a symptom of a bad cat too. My stock cat lasted 10 years until the cone boke off inside and clogged the thing (a problem with the stock cats) but I suppose it is all relative to environment, fuel quality, and the kind of driving.
#25
Well I just found out its the resignator (if that's how you spell it) because the guy showed me it was busted and missing the o-rings for the support. Mainly rusted! They offered to put a new one on with welding for $100, too me I can't beat that at all.
#26
That's some good news. Personally, I would remove it for the extra sound but that's just me.
Remember though, if you ever want a pretty quick performance boost, get the ZZP downpipe with the high flow cat and ubend delete.
Remember though, if you ever want a pretty quick performance boost, get the ZZP downpipe with the high flow cat and ubend delete.
#27
Now its light blue smoke coming from the tail pipes when I rev the engine. While driving I don't see it and it's much quieter ride as well. I called back with the concerns and the guy told me that since there was rust spots that had holes on the resignator, then now it's coming out the pipes. Which it has to burn off whateva oil or what have you from the engine since its a new part. So give it some days to burn off.... All I can do is wait and see...smh!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mtwallet
Monte Carlo Repair Help
7
02-25-2007 09:16 PM