Can't Keep 03 SS Running
#1
Can't Keep 03 SS Running
Hey folks, was looking for some help on this one.
When starting the Monte it will only crank until I give it gas and then starts. The problem is that if I let off the gas it stalls/dies. I've been suspect of the last tank of fuel I put in was the bottom of the stations tank and low and behold when removing the fuel line from the filter and blowing the fuel back out that the fuel was filthy. I'm thinking the fuel filter is plugged with crud but decided to have Advance slap their code reader on and it came back something about catalytic efficiency system and the rep said I should start by looking if the cat is clogged.
Has anybody had a similar issue? What was the cure? Any recommended Cat replacement/workaround?
I know the fuel pump is working, I can hear it come on and had plenty of pressure in the line when sampling the fuel from the filter a few times.
When starting the Monte it will only crank until I give it gas and then starts. The problem is that if I let off the gas it stalls/dies. I've been suspect of the last tank of fuel I put in was the bottom of the stations tank and low and behold when removing the fuel line from the filter and blowing the fuel back out that the fuel was filthy. I'm thinking the fuel filter is plugged with crud but decided to have Advance slap their code reader on and it came back something about catalytic efficiency system and the rep said I should start by looking if the cat is clogged.
Has anybody had a similar issue? What was the cure? Any recommended Cat replacement/workaround?
I know the fuel pump is working, I can hear it come on and had plenty of pressure in the line when sampling the fuel from the filter a few times.
#2
Figured while I'm at it I'd mention a few other things.
The fuel I blew out through the filter was not only dirty but also had a glimmer to it, metal shavings?
Car leaks oil onto the top of the engine and pools near the fuel pressure regulator. (170k miles)
There is some type of crud/sludge in my coolant, feels jelly-like. It's my intent to empty the system and flush the radiator/whatnot during my next oil change, which will be soon.
ABS light is on and there is a fairly high pitch metallic squeaking from the front end while moving. Wheel Hub?
Also, I can notice shaking/vibrations in the steering wheel and accelerator at speeds ~50mph+.
The fuel I blew out through the filter was not only dirty but also had a glimmer to it, metal shavings?
Car leaks oil onto the top of the engine and pools near the fuel pressure regulator. (170k miles)
There is some type of crud/sludge in my coolant, feels jelly-like. It's my intent to empty the system and flush the radiator/whatnot during my next oil change, which will be soon.
ABS light is on and there is a fairly high pitch metallic squeaking from the front end while moving. Wheel Hub?
Also, I can notice shaking/vibrations in the steering wheel and accelerator at speeds ~50mph+.
#3
Get that fuel filter changed. It's part of routine maintenance and should be done semi-regularly.
The cat is a known issue on these cars, but if you can't keep something idling, also look into the sensors and valves on the throttle body. The IAC valve sometimes gets stuck or filled with carbon and prevents the car from idling properly.
Oil leaks, common. Gaskets will need to be changed, typically all the way down to the LIM gaskets (UIM/Valve/LIM are the biggies) and replacing the LIM gasket with the aftermarket metal ones are nice.
Coolant needs to be flushed regularly as well. The blocks are iron, if the level gets low, the iron rusts, the coolant picks up that rust and it ruins it. Also the coolant itself can only last for so long and starts to break down.
The other issues do sound like the wheel hub.
The cat is a known issue on these cars, but if you can't keep something idling, also look into the sensors and valves on the throttle body. The IAC valve sometimes gets stuck or filled with carbon and prevents the car from idling properly.
Oil leaks, common. Gaskets will need to be changed, typically all the way down to the LIM gaskets (UIM/Valve/LIM are the biggies) and replacing the LIM gasket with the aftermarket metal ones are nice.
Coolant needs to be flushed regularly as well. The blocks are iron, if the level gets low, the iron rusts, the coolant picks up that rust and it ruins it. Also the coolant itself can only last for so long and starts to break down.
The other issues do sound like the wheel hub.
#5
Ok,
Just called on the parts and I'm looking at $144 for a universal cat or $215 for a Magnaflow.
Would it be better to order the downpipes w/ cat from zzp/3800 for $205 + shipping? Will I need the u-bend delete if I take this route? I see a lot of great reviews regarding this item. Is there anything else i'd need to go this route?
Thanks
Edit: What sensors are on the right hand side of the motor? I'm assuming TPS, choke sensor, mass air flow.
ZZP is in Grand Rapids, MI correct? If so can I stop in and save the shipping?
Just called on the parts and I'm looking at $144 for a universal cat or $215 for a Magnaflow.
Would it be better to order the downpipes w/ cat from zzp/3800 for $205 + shipping? Will I need the u-bend delete if I take this route? I see a lot of great reviews regarding this item. Is there anything else i'd need to go this route?
Thanks
Edit: What sensors are on the right hand side of the motor? I'm assuming TPS, choke sensor, mass air flow.
ZZP is in Grand Rapids, MI correct? If so can I stop in and save the shipping?
Last edited by SLaFlame; 04-24-2015 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Addition
#6
You can stop in and they would even do the installs for you.
The sensors look like this:
iac_01.jpg
I would honestly get the cat tested before blindly replacing it, unless you want to do the downpipe upgrade.
The sensors look like this:
iac_01.jpg
I would honestly get the cat tested before blindly replacing it, unless you want to do the downpipe upgrade.
#7
Thanks again,
When I had it scanned there were only 2 codes, one was for knock (I'm assuming it's from running premium fuel), the other was along the lines of catalytic efficiency low.
If it's all the same price-wise between a magnaflow cat and ZZP downpipes w/ cat i'll go with the upgrade. (Unless their installs are free w/ purchase it will be a DIY)
I'm around $2000 into this car ($1100 purchase) and have every intention of owning/improving it for quite some time. I've already replaced the alternator, starter, and battery (car would die if left sitting for a few hours and replacing those solved that). As well as plugs, wires, and fluid changed.
My goal is a $7-10k investment into the vehicle over the next 5 or so years in hopes i'll have a fun and reliable vehicle that will only require little/basic/cheap maintenance for many years after.
But before fun comes reliable so I'm working out the flaws and kinks in its running before I sink the big money into mods/topswap/SC etc.
When I had it scanned there were only 2 codes, one was for knock (I'm assuming it's from running premium fuel), the other was along the lines of catalytic efficiency low.
If it's all the same price-wise between a magnaflow cat and ZZP downpipes w/ cat i'll go with the upgrade. (Unless their installs are free w/ purchase it will be a DIY)
I'm around $2000 into this car ($1100 purchase) and have every intention of owning/improving it for quite some time. I've already replaced the alternator, starter, and battery (car would die if left sitting for a few hours and replacing those solved that). As well as plugs, wires, and fluid changed.
My goal is a $7-10k investment into the vehicle over the next 5 or so years in hopes i'll have a fun and reliable vehicle that will only require little/basic/cheap maintenance for many years after.
But before fun comes reliable so I'm working out the flaws and kinks in its running before I sink the big money into mods/topswap/SC etc.
Last edited by SLaFlame; 04-24-2015 at 09:54 AM.
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