well its time for new brakes on my monte any suggestion for new pads etc

 

In experience with cars, and not just Monte Carlos...it doesn't much matter what type of pad you get...they all do the same thing and they all do it just as well as the next, now if you were talking about replacing your calipers and master cylinder and junk...it would be an entirely different story, but as far as pads are concerned...I wouldn't waste money paying for a name when I can get the shame thing from Mineke right down the street.

 

If you brake hard I would run EBC kevlar, I have never had a problem with them. Other then that SoCalSS is right any pad will work just fine.

 

thats pretty much what i am tring to figure out beleve me when i get home u camn smell my brake si live on a very curvy road that i like to drive really fast down do you think it would reall be worth it to buy somthing like drilled or slotted rotors

 

I have the drilled rotors and Hawk carbon fiber pads and stainless steel brake lines. Tremendous difference over stock. It stops like you threw an anchor out, and the stainless lines took all the "spongy" feeling out of the pedal. Just a good solid pedal now with a good "feel" for braking. Total cost was around $800, I installed everything myself and painted the stock calipers with high heat engine paint. There's a picure of the setup on the car on my profile. If I was just changing the pads I would look for one that doesn't produce the brake dust like stock pads.

 

In my opinion, the Hawk HPS brake pads are the cleanest pads out there. Powerslot rotors run cool, and because they are plated, they stay looking good. I have a set of both I took of my '01 Monte and put them on my '04 Intimidator when I got it. With 35,000 miles on them, the pads had as much life as the '04's factory pads (which are excellent pads) with only 6,000 miles on them. I turned the rotors, skuffed the pads, and 25,000 miles later, they are still in excellent condition. And I drive hard! I paid $467 online for all 4 wheels, including delivery. They are the best. Do not buy cross drilled rotors for the street, they are too fragile. I just put the Hawk HPS/Powerslot combo on the back of my wife's '99 Silverado Z71 sportside. She Loves them! (We are still on original front pads and rotors at 155,000 miles!)
Keeping my chrome 17" and 18" wheels clean is a priority, as well as long life. I get both with this combo. Show me a better deal and better quality, and I will buy them These are the best, at a good price.

 

well brakes is one of the things i now best now!

the first thing. identify the type of conditions your putting them thru.
-if you endup smoking the stock brakes al lthe time... you have to do two things.... learn to take it a bit easyer on the car and get good equipment!

Pads:
EBC "green stuff" pads... those kevlar ones... do not buy them! they are infact ceramic. ceramic pads WILL eat your rotors. and if your that hard on your brakes you may end up cracking them... im not extreamly hard on mine and they cause fautige crackes in my rotors in 3 months!

the safest pads to run are the hawk ( have not used them myself) or Carbon-metalic i run carbon-metalic pads and love them. they dont have organic fillers that will cause more gasses to boil out during hard brakeing.

Rotors:
you get what you pay for. fancy rotor types are there to do one thing cool the rotor down. idealy you wouldnt want any holes or noches in the rotor surface for best braking. you want to maximze your contact patch between your pad and rotor.

-Drilled rotors do increase cooling but will cause hot and cold spots on the rotor which will cause cracking (even if the holes were cast in!) they reduce rotating mass so if you are setting up the car for straight line racing these can help.

-Drilled and Slotted again increase cooling but the ununiform structure is prone to cracking and can get weak under heavy braking. also the holes and slots reduce your surface area to pad contact patch...what does that mean you ask? its what stops the car! ( now you know why noone uses them in real racing)

-Slotted have a good amount of surface area for pad contact and the slot to vent gasses from the pad created by heavy braking. of all the rotors on the market these look somewhat plane... but are pretty much the best choice for our cars.

-dimpled rotors. i have yet to see these for our cars... but at first glance they look like drilled rotors, but they holes do not go all they way thru! think of them as an optimal version of the slotted rotor. they give space for gasses to be trapped and maximize surface area.

Brake cooling:
you have to cool down the brakes DOH!

-cooling ducts bring fresh cool air to the center of the rotor to be drawn thru the center. i have yet to see this done on our cars... but i am planing something soon. :-)

-Fluid. when the brake system heats up... heat is transferd from the pad to the caliper to the brakelines. some fluids break down under high temp... i use DOT 4 fluid for its higher temp resistance.

-lines. pressure from the booster will stretch the stock rubber lines. this is where steel lines recover the braking force.

---sorry if this is coming out werid or badly worded its late.----

Long story short... your application is very hard on brakes.

i would recomend:
-either a stock solid rotor or slotted rotor for their strenght.
-carbon-metalic or hawk pad
-full fluid flush with DOT 4 fluid
-increase cooing to the rotors ( a more open wheel will help) but brake ducts will be a chalange with our front axles and hubs

if you got more questions feel free and hit me up.

if you guys wnat more readng material:
- http://www.myasylum.com/cars/messages/44.html
- http://www.automotivearticles.com/Br...Practice.shtml
-

 

cool thanks for the info i ended up ordering a set of slotted rotors and bought a set of carbon metallic pads at the parts house for my car hopefully i get more mileage out of these tan the stockers