you can get to the rear plugs on a 3.1 car, good luck with a 3.4, lol, the 3.1 is tight but accesable if you have a good socket set with some extensions, & i think i used a flexable wrachet. although the real solution would have been if chevy had turned that sucker 90* & sent power to the correct set of wheels, lol.

if its not throwing any codes, & you dont drive it often, perhaps the fuel went bad? alot of the stuff i mentioned above helped my car, but it still tends to idle kinda crappy if i let it sit & the gas is of a low grade, at least till i burn most of it off.

 

ok i started working on the car. i took the iac off n sprayed it a ton with carb cleaner since thats all i had at the time and also let it soak for a little bit inside there, also i took the egr valve off an did the same and the egr valve had sort of alot of carbin in it an on top of it so i sprayed it also with carb cleaner and let it soak inside. I checked the prices for those to parts at the auto parts place and its $25 for the IAC but that dosnt look to bad but i did push the spring down and it wont come back up now but oh well, also the egr valve was $130 which is alot for me so should i replace that if it keeps running like crap after i am done soaking it and put it back on? what is the proper way of cleaning it and what else should i do? thanks for the help. I did get to the back plugs and wires and there all fine. the air filter is fine, i have not replaced the fuel filter though yet. thanks for the help

 

i just put it all back together and its doing the same thing. what else is there to check before i start buying the parts. when its in park it idles fine same with neuteral but in reverse or drive or any gear it idles down and runs sort of rough and the lights still dim with the idle. somtimes it idles bad in park after you switch it out of gear to park or neuteral but if you rev it up in park it goes away and runs fine.

 

ok i guess my check engine light does not work because i brought it to auto zone and put it on the computer they had and it brought up 4 codes but there was 2 of the same codes for each problem. one code was midfire on cyl 3 and the second was transmission slip. for some reason it brought up the same code twice for each one. I was curious on how to lift the engine. I cant find the dogbone mounts to take off to pull it forward. Someone tried explaining it to me but i cant find them, can anyone help? they also said its pretty easy as long as i can pull it up.

 

thats good that they were able to pull the codes. problem is, idk what to tell ya on pulling the engine up, ive (thankfully) never had to pull mine out... i know someone on here should be able to help on that one. as for the iac and egr, you should'nt have any problems with them scince you cleaned them. that egr is friggin expencive, i accedentaly told the parts guy once i needed an egr instead of a pcv, i damn near crapped myself when he said " its $142" and i was like "but, but, it was like, $2.67 last thursday" lol.

i was gonna ask, do ya have a haynes manuel? i picked one up, it really helped having it, and was only like $12.

good luck getting everything figured out

 

no i do not have the manual but hey thanks for your help man. Ya that is an expensive part but the iac is only $25 but i really dont think its them thats wrong with it. I think its ither the coil packs or the plugs or wires. I can see the 3 spark plugs right on the back side of the engine but i just cant find the brackets i have to unbolt to pull it foward to get at them, i guess it only moves like 6 inches but i think thats all i need to get at the plugs as long as i have an extention for the socket.

 

These are the dogbones that you have to remove to roll the engine forward.

 

so all i do is take those 2 front bolts off and the engine will fall foward just like that or what? Is it just going to drop down as soon as i take them bolts off? so should i have a 2x4 there to hold it from not dropping down? Thanks for your help!