Thanks. Will definately look into buying a better manual. Have found some pretty bad fill in the gap sections even before this but especially on the carburetor. Doesn't have my specs for rebuilding my carb. But it does every other one. Like I'm supposed to just correlate my carb with another one that's in the book.

 

Alright the great news. Pulloff fixed her right up! Had some white smoke(no black spitting smoke) out the tailpipe though at startup for like oh 2-3 min. The pulloff was working too well! Choke plate was 3/4 of the way open! Had to adjust it to 1/8 or so past the starting plate position of the thermostat. Since I already had the car warmed up I had to hold up the cam follower, and lift up the choke plate, and push in the pulloff simultaneously to simulate tension on the coil to adjust the pulloff properly. Plus I hadn't ran her in a week, so that might also be the reason for the white smoke. Had to pat the pedal 8 times so she got enough fuel(2 times per crank).

Oh I also hooked up the oil pressure tester and like H317 said, it was at 50 psi at startup high idle. My oil requires 4 1/2 quarts(full synthetic amsoil) although the book says 4 quarts(estimate). No exact measurement in book for my exact engine although it is half a quart over on the stick(has always been that way). Anyway I guess it's because my amsoil is thinner and what not. Amsoil website says 4 1/2 quarts per 10w30 signature series for 229 block. The oil pressure meter didn't shake for nothing! I'm talking ZERO WOBBLE! You could notice the earth spin before you would notice any shaking on that meter. It held 50 proper then dropped to 45 when I put the hose back on the carb that runs from the breather.

Oil/choke light is still on and blower/motor's not doing anything. So I'm gonna get my 2x4 back out and get under the steering wheel whenever I feel warm enough. The great news is my engine is in tip top shape after 13-14 yrs. I can drive her. I'll try to report back here about the oil/choke light situation. I'm sure some wires are touching metal.

Oh forgot to mention I gotta figure out why she's dropping idle slightly when I put the hose back on the carb that runs from the breather(same line that goes to the choke pulloff). Might need a new breather part(says A/C on it). I think it does the same when I plug the line also. So it might be what it's supposed to do. If anybody can confirm that.

I looked up the steering assembly although I couldn't find a good one. I dunno what's past the actuator seeing as how I was wiggling the key to turn off the choke light before and my blower motor would come on. They are related in some way as wiring is concerned. Or they are touching each other or something.

Oh I didn't get the hoses for the carb yet. Money's funny. Gotta wait til end of next week before I just go by it and some new belts and a new ground wire and whatever I need for the oil/choke light if anything. Wanted to know exactly what was wrong with my car anyway and I had to check the oil pressure before I could drive it because of that overfill. I had weird simultaneous issues occur at once.

Anybody got a good diagram with a description of parts on the steering wheel that goes from the lock cylinder all the way down? I found one that's kinda blurry. But doesn't tell me what's past the actuator.

Thanks for the help.

 

Congrats!!

 

Thanks and I really believe that amsoil full synthetic signature series oil really saved my engine. If I had been running conventional oil at 3 quarts over for that long... Plus I already had a way for the excess oil to vapor out the valve cover. I started buyin this oil simply because I only have to change it once a yr. Now to find out it has even more benefits. It's pretty much the same price as conventional oil/filter when you go on their website and get the discount. I get my transmission fluid and air filter from there also when I did my first flush.

Oh that reminds me I need to get a magnetic drain plug.

Oh my carb is in the Hayne's manual. Confusing cause I saw it listed as 1980 then it's also listed as 1982 and later... e2me

Just to remind myself. Drain plug, belts, hoses, ground wire, oil/choke light, precision adjust the choke(1 notch lean), pulloff 27 degrees, figure out why it's idling lower with breather hose on, blower motor/oil/choke light relation to loose steering wheel linkage!?(saw it in another thread), gotta get that defrost workin. Heat would be nice also.

 

I use 20/50 in mine because I race it and I change mine every two months but I use Valvoline conventional. Magnetic drain plug is a very good idea. I have one on my 84.

 

Aww man I just found my carburetor on nationalcarburetors.com for $188 with lifetime warranty and $168 for 90 day warranty! Completely rebuilt with thermostat, pulloff. Everything but the idle air control mechanism. I think I spent 50-60 bucks with the separate shipping and pulloff and thermostat. Darn!!

 

Just a quick update so far. Gettin paid tomorrow. I have a very short range of motion on my choke thermostat coil. The coil will only go so far unless it's say above 80F(guessing on the temp). So the cam would never go to the lowest step because of the coil.

I had to get my car fully warmed up and make sure it was warmed up by taking it out on the highway after 15 min of idle. Turned the car off. Then I had to check the cam lever while keeping the pulloff from rubbing against it so it was loose and rotating the thermostat to where the fully heated coil just meets the cam to where it locks in at the lowest step. The cam is not fully down when it's on the lowest step.

So next morning I had to check it cold and it's 20F. The choke plate, where it meets resistance against the coil on the highest step of the cam, was right at, or 1/16" after where the pulloff would start when running. So I left it there, seeing as how the plate can still close even though no tension on the coil. Turned it over and she started just fine. Took a few seconds to get it up to high idle, but that's probably cause I didn't give it enough gas(coldest it's ever been here). Got light white smoke out the tailpipe for 1 or 2 min then stopped.

Kicked down on the lowest step of the cam after warm. Took her for a drive. Came back and checked it and it was still at low idle. Did have a little surging for like a min or 2 at low idle, then stopped(might be the hoses being flimsy and pinching themselves). Choke light's still on, but gonna get that figured out shortly. Post back about that.

So basically I had to adjust my thermostat hot(checked it cold in the mornin) solely because of the range of motion on the coil. It will not go any further unless it's super hot outside because it's electric is my guess. I guess only electricity is heating the element. So 9v will only heat it that much and the element will hold that temp but not get any hotter. In a way I like this(helps to adjust it), but I would think I need a wider range of motion on my coil. Or more volts?

So my thermostat's range of motioni is from my pulloff stage(27 degrees) to just where my cam catches on the lowest step. My lever inside the choke housing is definately more than that. I was burning extra fuel because it never went to the lowest step. She really does run great though. Sounds real strong and smooth at high idle and low.

Note: The pulloff does not rub against the cam lever when engaged and thermostat passes it. Even when it's not engaged it's a very slight, hard to notice rub.

Oh I forgot to mention I was hearing a faint computer beeping noise. My car doesn't have a computer. So anybody know what in the world that could be? I heard it at first when car started then it got less intermittent then stopped after like 5 min. I also coulda sworn I heard it intermittently in the past weeks also. Don't think it's that new oil pressure sensor. They don't beep so I'm told. Could be that damn ground wire....