Replaced the carb about a year ago, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs are good, timing is good...turns over, then dies. Anyone with any ideas? SO frustrating!

 

I have a cpl of ideas....

1) Does the battery hold a charge? Or does it go low over night?
That tells me its a solenoid problem on the starter. (easy to change) This also causes stahling after startup... in some cases.... Is the battery fully charged?

2) Since you said it starts and then dies...
I would be inclined to believe its coil.... The primary side is operateing(initial startup) but the secondary side of the coil is responsible for keeping the motor running after it starts. Since it stahls out... (Replace the coil)

3) I believe it has an HEI distributor... Correct? (No points and condenser)
If its not an HEI, replace the points and condenser..(probably a bad condenser)

What motor does it have in it?... Is it the original motor?
Will it stay running... If you give it gas after the initial start up?.. or does it die right out?

Hope this helps...
Maybe someone else will chime in with more ideas.

 

It is not the original motor, it was replaced when I bought it 6 years ago. It has a 305 in it.

Basically, I turn the key, it starts and then sputters off, and then because it's flooded it wont start at all.

I am wondering if the fuel mixture is just not right. It doesnt always do this, sometimes it runs great for weeks, starts the first time and runs amazing, then days like today I go to start it and it wont turn over, then I flood it because I'm annoyed, and so on...

The battery is brand new, doesnt go low overnight.
The alternator is new as well.
Fuel pump is new.
Carb is newish.

 

What carb is on it? Maybe its over carbed?

If its flooding out.... Sounds like the float is sinking causeing it to dump excessive fuel into the carb....Thus stahling out..


Does the oil smell like it has gas in it?.. I would change it immediately!
That's the first cause of damaged bearings, collapsed lifters,
How many miles on the motor?...

 

It came with a 2 barrel rochester, which is a piece of crap, and I had to replace that piece of crap with another rochester because to be honest, I am lacking in the skills necessary to replace the whole mess with a different kind of carb.

Oil doesnt smell like gas, and was recently changed.

The fuel pump was a pain in the butt to replace, but I did it, the carb was a pain as well, but it seemed to fix the problem for a while, I am just lost as to what to do next. The fact that I am female leads most repair places to try and tell me a bunch of crap that doesnt need to be done, because you know, the fact that I have a vagina instantly means I'm stupid...

 

[QUOTE=dr051976;571468]It came with a 2 barrel rochester, which is a piece of crap, and I had to replace that piece of crap with another rochester because to be honest, I am lacking in the skills necessary to replace the whole mess with a different kind of carb.

Oil doesnt smell like gas, and was recently changed.

The fuel pump was a pain in the butt to replace, but I did it, the carb was a pain as well, but it seemed to fix the problem for a while, I am just lost as to what to do next. The fact that I am female leads most repair places to try and tell me a bunch of crap that doesnt need to be done, because you know, the fact that I have a vagina instantly means I'm stupid...[/QUOTE]

I didn't expect to hear that!!!

There actually a great carb when setup properly!


Has anyone recently tried to adjust the carb?

2ndly, has anyone used starting fluid to get it to run? theres a tube on the top of the carb... if by chance any starting fluid got inside there..it will cause the float to disintegrate.. causing it to sink and flood the motor..

If not,
Lets try readjusting the carb...

I'd start with the choke setting...(remove the air cleaner)

There should be a black dashpot on the side of the carb...(passenger side)
with 3 tiny screws holding it in place... Loosen those screws (do not remove them) you will see there is gradations on the carb around the dash pot ...lean, rich...

Turn the dash pot counter clock wise until the choke plate closes. (You may have to move the throttle slightly open) to get it to close completely...

Once you get it to the closed position... start turning it clockwise(slowly) until the choke plate starts to open... at that point stop and turn it back just enuff til it starts to close...That's where you will want to retighten the tiny screws.... To hold it in that position.. Not sure what temps outdoors your currently experiencing in Colorado... But the choke is weather sensitive.

Next Lets readjust the carb itself. (with air cleaner still removed)

At the front of the carb (near the base)
There will be 2 screws(needles) with springs around them... These are the idle air setting screws... Sometimes.. you can turn them by hand..if not use a flatheaded screwdriver turn them clockwise til they stop (you'll be turning them inward) use gentle pressure so as to not damage the seat as you turn them all the way in... Once its seated

Your going to turn it the opposite way counter clockwise (out) around 3/4 of a turn.
Repeat the same process for the next one..

This should get you back to stock settings... and it should start right up..
If its idleing eratically... or takes some throttle to keep it running...
Try turning the needle valves(screws) out another 1/4 turn or until it starts to idle smoothly.. be sure to turn them both out equally/slowly.

Hope this helps!
Let me know if this resolves the problem.

 

Glad I could provide some amusement, lol. I am going to mess with the carb when I get home tonight, I will let you know how it goes! Thanks a bunch. =)

 

Your very welcome!
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One more question, on the EGR - the hose should run to the EGR TVS, correct? Wait, is that right? Brain stalling, much like car...

 

Thanks! You have been amazing!