2001 3.4 coolant in oil
#1
2001 3.4 coolant in oil
Hi all,
I have a 2001 with the 3.4 motor and have found that coolant is getting into the crankcase. The intake manifold gaskets were replaced 10K miles ago so I'm thinking the head gasket may be bad, no white smoke coming from the exhaust though. Any other ideas on what else it could be?
If I do replace the head gasket would I need any special tools besides the obvious sockets/wrenches and a quality torque wrench?
Also, I was going to buy the Fel-Pro gasket set that includes intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets etc. Anything else recommended for the 'while I'm in there' list to replace?
Thanks for any advice and help you can offer.
I have a 2001 with the 3.4 motor and have found that coolant is getting into the crankcase. The intake manifold gaskets were replaced 10K miles ago so I'm thinking the head gasket may be bad, no white smoke coming from the exhaust though. Any other ideas on what else it could be?
If I do replace the head gasket would I need any special tools besides the obvious sockets/wrenches and a quality torque wrench?
Also, I was going to buy the Fel-Pro gasket set that includes intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets etc. Anything else recommended for the 'while I'm in there' list to replace?
Thanks for any advice and help you can offer.
#2
They make a push rod remover for the 3.4 so you don't have to loosen up the rocker arms. It can be found at most parts stores. I'm not sure you really need it if your removing the heads tho. just a thought.
#3
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
Doesn't matter about the push rods and rockers, unbolt them and use the correct torque spec for re-installation.
Off hand, I can't think of any special tools. When getting the gasket set, get the updated aluminum intake gaskets. Worth the little extra cash.
Make sure to inspect and clean the surfaces up real good.
If all the bolts come loose fairly easy, it's not a bad job. Replace nuts and bolts that look bad. Some people will say NOT to re-use head bolts (as when torqueing them down they stretch). Right or wrong, I have re-used head bolts. Example, I did head gaskets on my '94 Grand Am at 180K in October of '09. She's got 208K on her now and runs GREAT (reused every nut and bolt except those that where damaged/disfigured, like some exhaust parts).
Off hand, I can't think of any special tools. When getting the gasket set, get the updated aluminum intake gaskets. Worth the little extra cash.
Make sure to inspect and clean the surfaces up real good.
If all the bolts come loose fairly easy, it's not a bad job. Replace nuts and bolts that look bad. Some people will say NOT to re-use head bolts (as when torqueing them down they stretch). Right or wrong, I have re-used head bolts. Example, I did head gaskets on my '94 Grand Am at 180K in October of '09. She's got 208K on her now and runs GREAT (reused every nut and bolt except those that where damaged/disfigured, like some exhaust parts).
#5
Signs of a Blown Head Gasket | eHow.com There's a lot of info here but it seems like all of this could be symptoms of an intake gasket too.
#6
Signs of a Blown Head Gasket | eHow.com There's a lot of info here but it seems like all of this could be symptoms of an intake gasket too.
I suppose it could be really ugly and be a cracked block but I hope not. Car has not overheated since I've had it and no white steam/smoke from the exhaust. It runs fine but I know something has to be fixed.
Thanks for the input
#7
Hey folks, any other takers on this one? Could oil in the coolant be caused by anything other than the head or manifold gaskets? Intake gasket was replaced shortly after getting the car but the warranty on the repair has expired. If it was that (again) I planned on replacing the head gasket also since I would be most of the way there.
Does anyone know how accurate a pressure test would be to determine the problem? It would obviously show external leaks but what about diagnosing why coolant gets into the crankcase? I was told there is a seal behind the water pump that could also be the problem.
Would really appreciate any input since I'm laid off and have more time than money right now.
Does anyone know how accurate a pressure test would be to determine the problem? It would obviously show external leaks but what about diagnosing why coolant gets into the crankcase? I was told there is a seal behind the water pump that could also be the problem.
Would really appreciate any input since I'm laid off and have more time than money right now.
#8
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
Could oil in the coolant be caused by anything other than the head or manifold gaskets?
....
Does anyone know how accurate a pressure test would be to determine the problem? It would obviously show external leaks but what about diagnosing why coolant gets into the crankcase? I was told there is a seal behind the water pump that could also be the problem.
....
Does anyone know how accurate a pressure test would be to determine the problem? It would obviously show external leaks but what about diagnosing why coolant gets into the crankcase? I was told there is a seal behind the water pump that could also be the problem.
A coolant pressure test will only give you so much information (my experience is if the lower intake gaskets have gone bad, most of the time a pressure test will help reveal that, you'll find a spot that seaps coolant or is found to be hissing). If it's a head gasket, it's hit or miss.
My '94 Grand Am (3100, same basic setup as a 3400) had a problem around 180,000 miles (back in '09) that the temp would spike up, I was getting air pockets often, when starting from a cold start, it ran a little rough (just for a few seconds, drive to the first stop sign and it ran perfect again). I put the coolant pressure tester to the car NUMEROUS times and it held perfect (I think I left it on for 30+ minutes and it never lost pressure).
By the time I got some help to narrow it down to being head gaskets, it had a BIG tell-tale sign... When it was first started, it let out big clouds of white smoke for a few seconds (I mean HUGE, no mistaken it, looked like I was in a fog machine). That was the result of coolant being sent out the exhaust.
Fixed it and now the car has close to 210,000 miles, runs perfectly!
Hope some of that info is of value.
#9
Thank You Maniac! I was trying to avoid the cost of the pressure test if possible. I found another article online that said to run the car with the radiator cap removed and watch for the antifreeze bubbling or spitting. I did that this morning and yes, it was bubbling. Looks like my chore is decided.
#10
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
Some parts stores let you do the "loan a tool" on the pressure tester (it has a returnable deposit usually). In the event you ever need one.
Bubbles like you mentioned can be a sign of compression gases coming through the cooling system (pending you had no existing air pockets).
When doing the re-assembly, make sure you get the aluminum intake gaskets.
Bubbles like you mentioned can be a sign of compression gases coming through the cooling system (pending you had no existing air pockets).
When doing the re-assembly, make sure you get the aluminum intake gaskets.