6th Gen ('00-'05): 02 SS Key won't turn in ignition - HELP
Hey guys,
I have been troubleshooting an intermittent no crank on an 02 MC SS. I think I have it down to the ignition switch being the culprit (I replaced it months ago, aftermarket unit). So I started disassembling everything but started removing the dash bezel with the key in the ignition. Well once I realized that, it was too late. I must have damaged something in the lock cylinder. Now I can not get the key to turn at all. The steering wheel is not locked and the shifter IS locked. I tried pulling on the steering wheel and shifter countless times, no luck. So I removed the ignition switch and tried to disconnect the PASSLock connector and the shift interlock cable. Turns out you can not disconnect either without the key being able to turn to the ON position. What are my options here?
I've read you can drill the retaining spring, but can not find pictures or instructions on how to do it or where to drill the holes.
Assuming I DO have to drill this, what all will need replaced? I assume a new lock cylinder, hall effect sensor and the ignition switch. Can I get that whole assembly, and will the new lock cylinder be able to be re-keyed to the factory key? Is this thing going to have to go to the dealership?
Assuming I can do everything myself, no BCM programming is required, correct? I can just do the 30 minutes relearn procedure?
Any links to info or help are appreciated!
I have been troubleshooting an intermittent no crank on an 02 MC SS. I think I have it down to the ignition switch being the culprit (I replaced it months ago, aftermarket unit). So I started disassembling everything but started removing the dash bezel with the key in the ignition. Well once I realized that, it was too late. I must have damaged something in the lock cylinder. Now I can not get the key to turn at all. The steering wheel is not locked and the shifter IS locked. I tried pulling on the steering wheel and shifter countless times, no luck. So I removed the ignition switch and tried to disconnect the PASSLock connector and the shift interlock cable. Turns out you can not disconnect either without the key being able to turn to the ON position. What are my options here?
I've read you can drill the retaining spring, but can not find pictures or instructions on how to do it or where to drill the holes.
Assuming I DO have to drill this, what all will need replaced? I assume a new lock cylinder, hall effect sensor and the ignition switch. Can I get that whole assembly, and will the new lock cylinder be able to be re-keyed to the factory key? Is this thing going to have to go to the dealership?
Assuming I can do everything myself, no BCM programming is required, correct? I can just do the 30 minutes relearn procedure?
Any links to info or help are appreciated!
Welcome to the Monte Carlo Family...*I'm not a tech, but below are some links to check (Check back again to see what our expert tech's post for additional infor)
- Key will not turn in Ignition - Monte Carlo Forum - Monte Carlo ...
montecarloforum.com › ... › General Forums › Monte Carlo Repair Help
Apr 22, 2013 - 10 posts - 4 authors
2002 chevrolet monte carlo ... I live far from a dealership and to tow the car there will be very expensive. I understand that it has to ... this forum. The downside to this is the new keys won't match the rest of your locks of course.6th Gen ('00-'05): Key stuck in ignition and won't turn ...
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Welcome to the Monte Carlo Family...*I'm not a tech, but below are some links to check (Check back again to see what our expert tech's post for additional infor)
- Key will not turn in Ignition - Monte Carlo Forum - Monte Carlo ...
montecarloforum.com › ... › General Forums › Monte Carlo Repair Help
Apr 22, 2013 - 10 posts - 4 authors
2002 chevrolet monte carlo ... I live far from a dealership and to tow the car there will be very expensive. I understand that it has to ... this forum. The downside to this is the new keys won't match the rest of your locks of course.6th Gen ('00-'05): Key stuck in ignition and won't turn ...
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Well, I took the ignition switch apart and cleaned the contacts. Everything looks fine.
Now the key will not turn intermittently so I guess the lock cylinder will need replaced? Can I pull the whole ignition switch/cylinder and take it to a dealership and have it keyed the same as the original key?
The car is still acting up. Before, the car would have an intermittent no crank. I would move it from P to N thinking it was the P/N switch. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I replaced the starter to appease my father, still acted up. I checked operation of the crank relay and swapped it with a known good one from the cooling fan. Still acted up. Before you couldn't even hear the starter solenoid click. Now it just clicks once or a few times. I checked battery connections, cleaned the terminals and the bolts. I also cleaned the ground connection on the passenger side near the battery. Next I will have to check the condition of the battery positive cable to the starter. I also checked battery voltage and it is good. Also pulled and re-seated any fuses in the starting circiut. Any other suggestions?
Now the key will not turn intermittently so I guess the lock cylinder will need replaced? Can I pull the whole ignition switch/cylinder and take it to a dealership and have it keyed the same as the original key?
The car is still acting up. Before, the car would have an intermittent no crank. I would move it from P to N thinking it was the P/N switch. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I replaced the starter to appease my father, still acted up. I checked operation of the crank relay and swapped it with a known good one from the cooling fan. Still acted up. Before you couldn't even hear the starter solenoid click. Now it just clicks once or a few times. I checked battery connections, cleaned the terminals and the bolts. I also cleaned the ground connection on the passenger side near the battery. Next I will have to check the condition of the battery positive cable to the starter. I also checked battery voltage and it is good. Also pulled and re-seated any fuses in the starting circiut. Any other suggestions?
Last edited by tunabreath; Apr 18, 2015 at 08:50 AM.
Yes you can buy a new cylinder and have the dealer mate it with your existing key, well at least they were able to the last time I had that done.
Your culprit could be the neutral safety switch causing the intermittent no crank issue. Definitely check the positive cable as if it is loose or dirty it would do the same thing. Also make sure your car is completely engaging in park. My car doesn't always do it, so i have to make sure I feel the click in the shifter when I put it in park, and I can pull the key out of the cylinder with it not all the way in park (haven't got around to replacing it yet lol) so if I do this it won't start, but with mine the P R N D 3 2 still lights up on the dash so I know, but yours may not. Just a suggestion, as the linkage for the shifter may be stretched and causing it not to go all they way in which would also cause your problems.
Your culprit could be the neutral safety switch causing the intermittent no crank issue. Definitely check the positive cable as if it is loose or dirty it would do the same thing. Also make sure your car is completely engaging in park. My car doesn't always do it, so i have to make sure I feel the click in the shifter when I put it in park, and I can pull the key out of the cylinder with it not all the way in park (haven't got around to replacing it yet lol) so if I do this it won't start, but with mine the P R N D 3 2 still lights up on the dash so I know, but yours may not. Just a suggestion, as the linkage for the shifter may be stretched and causing it not to go all they way in which would also cause your problems.
Yes you can buy a new cylinder and have the dealer mate it with your existing key, well at least they were able to the last time I had that done.
Your culprit could be the neutral safety switch causing the intermittent no crank issue. Definitely check the positive cable as if it is loose or dirty it would do the same thing. Also make sure your car is completely engaging in park. My car doesn't always do it, so i have to make sure I feel the click in the shifter when I put it in park, and I can pull the key out of the cylinder with it not all the way in park (haven't got around to replacing it yet lol) so if I do this it won't start, but with mine the P R N D 3 2 still lights up on the dash so I know, but yours may not. Just a suggestion, as the linkage for the shifter may be stretched and causing it not to go all they way in which would also cause your problems.
Your culprit could be the neutral safety switch causing the intermittent no crank issue. Definitely check the positive cable as if it is loose or dirty it would do the same thing. Also make sure your car is completely engaging in park. My car doesn't always do it, so i have to make sure I feel the click in the shifter when I put it in park, and I can pull the key out of the cylinder with it not all the way in park (haven't got around to replacing it yet lol) so if I do this it won't start, but with mine the P R N D 3 2 still lights up on the dash so I know, but yours may not. Just a suggestion, as the linkage for the shifter may be stretched and causing it not to go all they way in which would also cause your problems.
I'm pretty sure it's not the P/N switch. I really hope it isn't because it is an internal component on the 4T65-E, at least this one.
I'm going to jump the B+ terminal to the S terminal on the starter today to verify operation of the starter. If the solenoid is clicking, then I know the starting circuit should be working. Will also check voltage drop/resistance on the B+ cable to the starter.
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