I Assume Yes..

It only does it in the case that I described above. Where the radio is the only thing on like when ive pulled out the key but the radio is on till the door open, But I decide to start the car right from that. It Does it in no other instances at all.

Which radio harness are you using? Does it do chimes through the RCAs/Amps?

If so, those harnesses typically leave the amp/radio on so it can generate the chimes

BBEngineer

It connected to remote directly out of the HU.. My car doesn't chime since the RCA for my amps are connected directly the the HU as well.

the harness i got for my 02 had a separate box that housed a small speaker just for the door chimes. . . . nothing but music ran through the speakers, door dings and warning lights dings went through the "little black box"

Ya. I didn't get that unit.. I dont like the chimes anyway, im glad it doesn't chime they get so annoying sometimes.

:iagree:

As I stated in my previous post, the remote lead operates the same way as using the cig/aux fuse as a remote lead....it's hot when the key is turned to acc and on yet gets no power when cranking the car then is hot again once the key is released and snaps back to the on position. So if they're the same in that regard then that can't possibly be a reason why it's not good practice to run it from that circuit.

So I guess the only "problem" would be the fact that while the key is in the acc/on position that the amp would be on no matter if the deck was on or not. This was a non-issue to me cause whenever i'm in the car I have my music on. Plus it doesn't hurt anything anyway. The amp being on while the deck is off hurts about as much as the deck being on but the volume turned all the way down.

The only real drawback I see would be installer error (allowing the wire to touch a nearby fuse) or not running, securing and terminating the wire properly, allowing a dead short to happen, blowing the fuse it's connected to and causing the other component connected to said fuse to go out too. But if you use common sense and do the install properly there is no way that wire will suffer a dead short in it's lifetime.

Typically, there is a small delay between when a HU turns on and when it provides power to the amp turn on which will usually take care of the 'crank' issue.

In the hundreds (maybe more) of installs I have done (both on the side and professionally), I have NEVER used an ignition source to turn on an amp...

I still completely disagree with you, so I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree...

BBEngineer

After reading both sides, I can see the points of each side. I dont think there is right or wrong way; they each have pros and cons I suppose.

I think what we have here is a difference in preference, although not really because I never had said or ever will say that a remote run from the fuse box is better than one ran from a dedicated remote lead. That should always be choice #1, but if you don't know what wire that is and want to get your system up going then my way would get the job done just the same and with little cause for concern. I too have been doing installs for many years, longer than some here have been alive, and I have never had a single problem arise from any install I've done this way. No messed up amps, no blown speakers, no audible turn on thumps, nothing. I guess that's why I fail to see how it can be such a bad practice if nothing bad has ever come of it in the 20+ years I've been doing it.