need help with a new system
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,221
the body is connected to the chassis, the dust cap is in the center, does it pop out? no, is it there? yet, if you were to pull it apart there is a center in it, and covering it is considered the dust cap, i love how you carefully read through and find the smallest things that are just out of line, even tho they still make sense, and point them out, trying to be an ***, ive tried to let it go til now, you need to lay off and stop acting like you know everything.
Not gonna argue with you about the W7...all I'll say is W-Cone, do your homework
All fixed magnet loudspeakers have a dustcap if they don't have a phase plug, whizzer cone or coaxial driver. As was said, the dustcap covers the hole cone to give a smooth concave look. Other examples are the RE Audio subs, Acoustic Elegance AV line and the Image Dynamics subs.
just throwin it out there big shot
just throwin it out there big shot
2.3 cubes ported.....just that alone is going to make your sub sound alot better than it does now, unless there's something mechanically wrong with it. Your grounds definitely needs to be closer. And make sure both amps have their own separate ground, don't connect a wire from the ground terminal on one amp to the other and then from there run a ground to the chassis, you will definitely have engine noise if you do that.
Last edited by 04MonteLS; May 14, 2010 at 12:22 AM.
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 294
From: St. Paul MN
okay so that isn't as bad as I thought
That sounded real good to you didn't it? Hahahaha. Yes, the body is connected to the chassis and the chassis is the main grounding location of the car's electronics. Ever wonder why the vehicles grounds are to the chassis rather than the body? Maybe because it's the ideal spot to ground to since that's where the main one's are...common ground locations help to isolate and prevent ground loop noise. Maybe that's why your battery is grounded to the chassis via a long cable instead of a short one to the body
Not gonna argue with you about the W7...all I'll say is W-Cone, do your homework
I can cut/paste from caraudio.com too, but that's the difference between you and I.....you don't know what you're talking about so you have look for info from people who you think do. But neither one of those subs listed are the same as the W7's W-Cone. I.D., A.E. and R.E. all use interlocking dust caps in their design, JL used interlocking dust caps too but not on the W7. The technology in the W7 re: the cone is unique to the W7. Do another google search and learn about it
2.3 cubes ported.....just that alone is going to make your sub sound alot better than it does now, unless there's something mechanically wrong with it. Your grounds definitely needs to be closer. And make sure both amps have their own separate ground, don't connect a wire from the ground terminal on one amp to the other and then from there run a ground to the chassis, you will definitely have engine noise if you do that.
Not gonna argue with you about the W7...all I'll say is W-Cone, do your homework
I can cut/paste from caraudio.com too, but that's the difference between you and I.....you don't know what you're talking about so you have look for info from people who you think do. But neither one of those subs listed are the same as the W7's W-Cone. I.D., A.E. and R.E. all use interlocking dust caps in their design, JL used interlocking dust caps too but not on the W7. The technology in the W7 re: the cone is unique to the W7. Do another google search and learn about it
2.3 cubes ported.....just that alone is going to make your sub sound alot better than it does now, unless there's something mechanically wrong with it. Your grounds definitely needs to be closer. And make sure both amps have their own separate ground, don't connect a wire from the ground terminal on one amp to the other and then from there run a ground to the chassis, you will definitely have engine noise if you do that.
You say you need to run seperate grounds from each amp. Would'nt this setup also work? It is what I have always used when wiring two amps. I may be absolutly wrong about this, but I think this is a good idea.
Attachment 2867
Attachment 2867
in the picture below, you can kind of see how i branched 2 power wires off of the cap to the amps, and the grounds from the amps also when to the cap, off of the cap there is 4 ga power, connected to the battery and ground point, and there is the 8 ga wires to the amps, so you need to make sure the main power wire is enough to handle the wattage of the amps, along with the ground.
sorry it's a wire mess, i just havent had time to clean it up.
not sure what the picture is, but you should have 1 ground from each amp, but they can come to a single wire into the chassis, but that single wire will have to be bigger than each ground wire from the amp (not in length but in gauge)
in the picture below, you can kind of see how i branched 2 power wires off of the cap to the amps, and the grounds from the amps also when to the cap, off of the cap there is 4 ga power, connected to the battery and ground point, and there is the 8 ga wires to the amps, so you need to make sure the main power wire is enough to handle the wattage of the amps, along with the ground.
sorry it's a wire mess, i just havent had time to clean it up.
in the picture below, you can kind of see how i branched 2 power wires off of the cap to the amps, and the grounds from the amps also when to the cap, off of the cap there is 4 ga power, connected to the battery and ground point, and there is the 8 ga wires to the amps, so you need to make sure the main power wire is enough to handle the wattage of the amps, along with the ground.
sorry it's a wire mess, i just havent had time to clean it up.
You say you need to run seperate grounds from each amp. Would'nt this setup also work? It is what I have always used when wiring two amps. I may be absolutly wrong about this, but I think this is a good idea.
Attachment 2867
Attachment 2867
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,157
From: Coal City,Il
What do you mean you dont know what the pic is? Did it not show up or do you not understand?? Its a drawing (kinda) of the setup I have always used. It is a 4 gauge wire going to a splitter box then two eight gauge wires going to the amps (one 8 gauge for each amp.