Installing subs and amp on stock head unit
#11
12-02-2013, 01:30 PM
Hey the pic of the box you posted looks like Dual Audio brand subs. Don't get em I had em and they're garbage plus the box was not deep enough to fit a good sub in (MTX 5500) as I tried. Don't worry too much about the box you wont see it often, but you will be hearing it. JBL's are good quality.
Back to the Thread; It is not too hard to install amp and subs.
First: Get an impedance controller (commonly called line-out converter) you will be able to plug RCA cables from amp to here. can find them here (not that in promoting this site) Line-Out Converters & Hi-Lo Adapters at Sonic Electronix
Second: assuming you have the stock amp in the trunk (as I do) and you're planning on putting your box there, you can splice into the stock amp wires. The converter should tell you what the colors on their wires mean, probably a power, right, left, ground (should match vehicle but don't quote on this)
To Splice: MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!!! split the rubber casing. CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE WIRE!!!! once wire is exposed there are two choices:
1) Solder the wires together (recommended) then wrap with electrical tape
2) Military splice (make hole in middle of wire push other wire through and wrap it) then cover with electrical tape.
Third: You have to run a power chord from battery to the amp ( i ran mine through a hole in the passenger side door because im not a pro). And ground the amp (I grounded it to the wheel well in the truck)
Lastly: This will cause your amp to always be on. So what you have to do is connect a wire to the remote input on your amp. (many ways to do this) I connect the remote wire to the fuse box on the drivers side. I wrapped the wire around the Steering Column Illumination fuse. So when the dashboard lights are on the amp is as well. Not the best set-up but if I want the subs on in the day i turn my parking lights on and BOOM! however they are always on driving at night, I dont care if my head hurts i just turn the bass down.
Good luck and have fun doing it. I have pics of my set up if you want to see em let me know
MY FIRST POST
Back to the Thread; It is not too hard to install amp and subs.
First: Get an impedance controller (commonly called line-out converter) you will be able to plug RCA cables from amp to here. can find them here (not that in promoting this site) Line-Out Converters & Hi-Lo Adapters at Sonic Electronix
Second: assuming you have the stock amp in the trunk (as I do) and you're planning on putting your box there, you can splice into the stock amp wires. The converter should tell you what the colors on their wires mean, probably a power, right, left, ground (should match vehicle but don't quote on this)
To Splice: MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!!! split the rubber casing. CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE WIRE!!!! once wire is exposed there are two choices:
1) Solder the wires together (recommended) then wrap with electrical tape
2) Military splice (make hole in middle of wire push other wire through and wrap it) then cover with electrical tape.
Third: You have to run a power chord from battery to the amp ( i ran mine through a hole in the passenger side door because im not a pro). And ground the amp (I grounded it to the wheel well in the truck)
Lastly: This will cause your amp to always be on. So what you have to do is connect a wire to the remote input on your amp. (many ways to do this) I connect the remote wire to the fuse box on the drivers side. I wrapped the wire around the Steering Column Illumination fuse. So when the dashboard lights are on the amp is as well. Not the best set-up but if I want the subs on in the day i turn my parking lights on and BOOM! however they are always on driving at night, I dont care if my head hurts i just turn the bass down.
Good luck and have fun doing it. I have pics of my set up if you want to see em let me know
MY FIRST POST
#12
12-02-2013, 05:40 PM
David, you and I share an electronics background. You in avionics, me in communication, radiation radar and computers. There was a time when I was hesitant over installing an audio system in my car. Once I learned to fall back on that electronics training and experience, I found, as I am sure you will that it as easy as installing a intercom or a computer controlled hydraulics systerm.
If you get stuck, fall back on your basic AC/DC theory and you will be fine. You know how to match impedance. You know the difference between inputs and outputs, and DC circuits are a snap.
What type of power are you looking for? Do you want it to hit heavier when your driving, 500w. Or do you want to have a block party everywhere you go, 1000 - 1200w. Your speaker should be able to take in more power than your amp can put out So you Can't overdrive them.
You can do this! And you will Love what you did!
I been there, I know!
If you get stuck, fall back on your basic AC/DC theory and you will be fine. You know how to match impedance. You know the difference between inputs and outputs, and DC circuits are a snap.
What type of power are you looking for? Do you want it to hit heavier when your driving, 500w. Or do you want to have a block party everywhere you go, 1000 - 1200w. Your speaker should be able to take in more power than your amp can put out So you Can't overdrive them.
You can do this! And you will Love what you did!
I been there, I know!
#13
12-02-2013, 06:19 PM
David, you and I share an electronics background. You in avionics, me in communication, radiation radar and computers. There was a time when I was hesitant over installing an audio system in my car. Once I learned to fall back on that electronics training and experience, I found, as I am sure you will that it as easy as installing a intercom or a computer controlled hydraulics systerm.
If you get stuck, fall back on your basic AC/DC theory and you will be fine. You know how to match impedance. You know the difference between inputs and outputs, and DC circuits are a snap.
What type of power are you looking for? Do you want it to hit heavier when your driving, 500w. Or do you want to have a block party everywhere you go, 1000 - 1200w. Your speaker should be able to take in more power than your amp can put out So you Can't overdrive them.
You can do this! And you will Love what you did!
I been there, I know!
If you get stuck, fall back on your basic AC/DC theory and you will be fine. You know how to match impedance. You know the difference between inputs and outputs, and DC circuits are a snap.
What type of power are you looking for? Do you want it to hit heavier when your driving, 500w. Or do you want to have a block party everywhere you go, 1000 - 1200w. Your speaker should be able to take in more power than your amp can put out So you Can't overdrive them.
You can do this! And you will Love what you did!
I been there, I know!
#14
12-11-2013, 11:47 PM
So I'm getting this set up guys.
What do you think. The amp is worth more than what I'm paying alone.
two 12in optidrive subs 2200 watt max 2 ohms DVC
In a custom ported box that's carpeted Dimensions
Lanzar opti 2000 watt 2 channel completion class mosfit amp
What do you think. The amp is worth more than what I'm paying alone.
two 12in optidrive subs 2200 watt max 2 ohms DVC
In a custom ported box that's carpeted Dimensions
Lanzar opti 2000 watt 2 channel completion class mosfit amp
#18
12-12-2013, 11:24 AM
It seems pretty obivous and following basic rules generaly leads me to the right conclusion but its always good to ask. I'm going to run the remote switch to the controls on my center console so I have bass on demand!
#19
12-12-2013, 04:11 PM
I'll be putting more subs when I get another alarm on my baby. And then maybe looking into a false wall as well. All coming in spring though. Usually all my systems seem to make other cars shake ahaha . My old one in my 95 escort popped off my spoiler