Interior/Audio/Visual Electronics Discuss your audio/visual system and your interior here.

Installing subs and amp on stock head unit

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-30-2013, 06:20 PM
dbaldwin's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- January 2014
1 Year Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,871
Default Installing subs and amp on stock head unit

Hey all, I like to know what Im doing before I dive into it so I have a question.
I have read two ways to do what I want, one is a line out converter, the other is an amp integration interface. Can anyone explain to me exactly how these work and how to hook them up. how the signals gets from the radio to the amp still is beyond my knowledge of expertise.
thanks
 
  #2  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:21 PM
JC Colon's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- May 2014
5 Year Member
3 Year Member1 Year Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kent, Wa.
Posts: 2,405
Default

Hi David, I am a little outdated about Car Audio but, I think they both do the same thing. I know the Line Out Converter takes your output from your head unit and drops the power down to a level that will not blow the input to your amp. I think from up to 4 to 7 volts down to .04 to .07 volts and then sends the signal off to you amp via RCA wires. You have to tap into the speaker wires for your rear speakers, both positive and negative wires, and run them to your converter. Then run your RCAs to your amp. I think!
Hiroska has a more Updated knowledge. Pm him to get more details!
Hope this helps though!
 
  #3  
Old 11-30-2013, 07:46 PM
dbaldwin's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- January 2014
1 Year Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,871
Default

Originally Posted by JC Colon`
Hi David, I am a little outdated about Car Audio but, I think they both do the same thing. I know the Line Out Converter takes your output from your head unit and drops the power down to a level that will not blow the input to your amp. I think from up to 4 to 7 volts down to .04 to .07 volts and then sends the signal off to you amp via RCA wires. You have to tap into the speaker wires for your rear speakers, both positive and negative wires, and run them to your converter. Then run your RCAs to your amp. I think!
Hiroska has a more Updated knowledge. Pm him to get more details!
Hope this helps though!
Thanks jc, ill hit up hiroska if he doesn't see this post soon. He usually keeps pretty good tabs on here and generally coments on my stuff.
 
  #4  
Old 12-01-2013, 10:08 PM
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 1,062
Default

Originally Posted by dbaldwin
Thanks jc, ill hit up hiroska if he doesn't see this post soon. He usually keeps pretty good tabs on here and generally coments on my stuff.
Aha I did see it from my thread so I'll explain the way I usually do it. I haven't done it with using the stock amp, because the stock amp can only push out so much power to subs, and usually running bigger subs, require power .


A line out convertor is basically a device that taps directly into our stock system without the use of a aftermarket head unit. Basically it's a medium. Now it's two ways to do this from here. Both ways require a aftermarket amp, and ofcourse subs or speakers your going to use. Some amps, when purchased, have a lineout included with the amp, some do not, and most older models are those who don't . So, link the stuff your planning on using and I'll look at it in the morning. But it's best to use a aftermarket amp, because it'll save you less trouble down the line and you can always reuse it for any car .
 
  #5  
Old 12-01-2013, 10:38 PM
dbaldwin's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- January 2014
1 Year Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,871
Default

Originally Posted by Hiroska

Aha I did see it from my thread so I'll explain the way I usually do it. I haven't done it with using the stock amp, because the stock amp can only push out so much power to subs, and usually running bigger subs, require power .

A line out convertor is basically a device that taps directly into our stock system without the use of a aftermarket head unit. Basically it's a medium. Now it's two ways to do this from here. Both ways require a aftermarket amp, and ofcourse subs or speakers your going to use. Some amps, when purchased, have a lineout included with the amp, some do not, and most older models are those who don't . So, link the stuff your planning on using and I'll look at it in the morning. But it's best to use a aftermarket amp, because it'll save you less trouble down the line and you can always reuse it for any car .
Yeah I want aftermarket amp and subs. I just want to keep the stock stuff too.
 
  #6  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 1,062
Default

Okay, so with your system, its different than how mine is in my car, but basically, same set up. A line out convertor is basically an output for the sound for the RCA's. It depends on which type of amp you have, some include one with it, some do not. Basically what you will want to do is first buy the amp and subs, check the amp to see if it has a line output built within, most do now a days. Using the line out is quite simple.

It has 4, sometimes 5 wires, Right pos, left neg, right neg, left post, ground. Most of the time, the ground is useless, some amps or convertors NEED it though. Basically, you will be connecting each right & left post & neg to tap into your rear 6x9's. Darker color is usually Pos, and neg is usually lighter color. You will need black electric tap, a lighter, and a good light, and good speaker wire. The smaller the # located on the wire, such as 2g vs 8g, 2g is always thicker, and better to use. Do not be cheap on wires ! It'll save you ALOT of money in the long run, and your system will be provided with the best supply of energy. As far as battery wire & ground wire for your amp, match the wattage of the amp, example if your amp is 800 watts, get a 800 watt kit of atleast 700, you can under power them by a bit, so that you dont blow them, but overpowering is a good way to blow them, ofcourse it all depends on your system and how you prefer to bump.

Start by burning the wires with them still connected to your 6x9's, and use your fingers to pull away some of the rubber and simply burn off some of the speaker wire, pull it off and then attach to your 6x9 wire. Or, use wires stripper for the speaker wire, and then twist and connect to speaker and tie up. After all connections are made, you will then use your RCA wires to plug into the convertor and wala, tapped in to your system, which the RCAs then close back into the amp. Im not sure if you need a guide on how to cook up the other amp stuff, if you do ill show you as well. This is how I continue to use my system with my factory head unit. Make sure your outputs on the RCA's match those of the amp, you will recive clipping in the music if it does not.
 
  #7  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:54 AM
dbaldwin's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- January 2014
1 Year Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,871
Default

Originally Posted by Hiroska
Okay, so with your system, its different than how mine is in my car, but basically, same set up. A line out convertor is basically an output for the sound for the RCA's. It depends on which type of amp you have, some include one with it, some do not. Basically what you will want to do is first buy the amp and subs, check the amp to see if it has a line output built within, most do now a days. Using the line out is quite simple.

It has 4, sometimes 5 wires, Right pos, left neg, right neg, left post, ground. Most of the time, the ground is useless, some amps or convertors NEED it though. Basically, you will be connecting each right & left post & neg to tap into your rear 6x9's. Darker color is usually Pos, and neg is usually lighter color. You will need black electric tap, a lighter, and a good light, and good speaker wire. The smaller the # located on the wire, such as 2g vs 8g, 2g is always thicker, and better to use. Do not be cheap on wires ! It'll save you ALOT of money in the long run, and your system will be provided with the best supply of energy. As far as battery wire & ground wire for your amp, match the wattage of the amp, example if your amp is 800 watts, get a 800 watt kit of atleast 700, you can under power them by a bit, so that you dont blow them, but overpowering is a good way to blow them, ofcourse it all depends on your system and how you prefer to bump.

Start by burning the wires with them still connected to your 6x9's, and use your fingers to pull away some of the rubber and simply burn off some of the speaker wire, pull it off and then attach to your 6x9 wire. Or, use wires stripper for the speaker wire, and then twist and connect to speaker and tie up. After all connections are made, you will then use your RCA wires to plug into the convertor and wala, tapped in to your system, which the RCAs then close back into the amp. Im not sure if you need a guide on how to cook up the other amp stuff, if you do ill show you as well. This is how I continue to use my system with my factory head unit. Make sure your outputs on the RCA's match those of the amp, you will recive clipping in the music if it does not.
Thanks hiroska. Ill make sure to hit you up again when I pick up the subs. I'm lookin at buying used cause its usually WAY cheaper. This is the kind of box I want.

Installing subs and amp on stock head unit-forumrunner_20131202_085210.jpg

The guy wants $100 for the setup. Its two 12" and a 340 w amp. I could always upgrade it but iv seen boxes like this alone go for a lot more. Iv got some lighting ideas with this style of box in mind though.
 
  #8  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:44 AM
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 1,062
Default

Usually lighting with boxes are useless lol, not gonna lie to you, some subs hit nice, but those look like dual brand, which is based off of sony i belive, and they blow quite quick. If your looking for a nice boom, check out kicker, some keenwoods, and pioneers are sometimes decent, depending on what you can get. If your looking for somewhat of a bump, your most def gonna wanna upgrade that amp. 340 isnt much to work with, and depending on if you look to upgrade in the future, based off that amp u may not be able to.
 
  #9  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:48 AM
dbaldwin's Avatar
Monte Of The Month -- January 2014
1 Year Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,871
Default

Originally Posted by Hiroska
Usually lighting with boxes are useless lol, not gonna lie to you, some subs hit nice, but those look like dual brand, which is based off of sony i belive, and they blow quite quick. If your looking for a nice boom, check out kicker, some keenwoods, and pioneers are sometimes decent, depending on what you can get. If your looking for somewhat of a bump, your most def gonna wanna upgrade that amp. 340 isnt much to work with, and depending on if you look to upgrade in the future, based off that amp u may not be able to.
Yeah, I mostly want the box. Or that style of box. Found a set of jbl 1000 watt gt4's in a standard vented box and a pyramid 2000 watt pb618 amp for $225. Now that is tempting.
 
  #10  
Old 12-02-2013, 01:24 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 2
Default Hope this helps

Hey the pic of the box you posted looks like Dual Audio brand subs. Don't get em I had em and they're garbage plus the box was not deep enough to fit a good sub in (MTX 5500) as I tried. Don't worry too much about the box you wont see it often, but you will be hearing it. JBL's are good quality.

Back to the Thread; It is not too hard to install amp and subs.

First: Get an impedance controller (commonly called line-out converter) you will be able to plug RCA cables from amp to here. can find them here (not that in promoting this site) Line-Out Converters & Hi-Lo Adapters at Sonic Electronix

Second: assuming you have the stock amp in the trunk (as I do) and you're planning on putting your box there, you can splice into the stock amp wires. The converter should tell you what the colors on their wires mean, probably a power, right, left, ground (should match vehicle but don't quote on this)

To Splice: MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!!! split the rubber casing. CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE WIRE!!!! once wire is exposed there are two choices:
1) Solder the wires together (recommended) then wrap with electrical tape
2) Military splice (make hole in middle of wire push other wire through and wrap it) then cover with electrical tape.

Third: You have to run a power chord from battery to the amp ( i ran mine through a hole in the passenger side door because im not a pro). And ground the amp (I grounded it to the wheel well in the truck)

Lastly: This will cause your amp to always be on. So what you have to do is connect a wire to the remote input on your amp. (many ways to do this) I connect the remote wire to the fuse box on the drivers side. I wrapped the wire around the Steering Column Illumination fuse. So when the dashboard lights are on the amp is as well. Not the best set-up but if I want the subs on in the day i turn my parking lights on and BOOM! however they are always on driving at night, I dont care if my head hurts i just turn the bass down.

Good luck and have fun doing it. I have pics of my set up if you want to see em let me know


MY FIRST POST
 


Quick Reply: Installing subs and amp on stock head unit



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:41 AM.