install sub wit factory deck
#11
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It doesn't matter where it's tapped into the speaker line because after all, the line is getting a signal all throughout. That being said, it's absolutely easier and more convenient to tap into the line in the trunk but it is what it is.
If the amp turns on, that's a good sign. Doesn't go into protect or anything does it? Have you checked the xover switches, gain level, etc.? Does your amp have a subsonic filter? Is it turned all the way up? If so, turn it all the way down. You sure your sub is wired up to the terminal cup on the box? Maybe a wire has come loose or something.
Actually, before you go doing all that, do this.......get a multimeter and set it to ac volts. Disconnect the sub speaker wire from the amp. Put your leads from the dmm in the speaker terminals where you just removed the speaker wire. Put in a cd and turn it up to moderate volume. If you see fluctuation in the voltage then your amp is putting out power and the problem is with the sub and/or it's wiring. If you don't get a reading then your amp is bad. After you do this process then you can continue with the other stuff I listed above.
Let me know what happens.
If the amp turns on, that's a good sign. Doesn't go into protect or anything does it? Have you checked the xover switches, gain level, etc.? Does your amp have a subsonic filter? Is it turned all the way up? If so, turn it all the way down. You sure your sub is wired up to the terminal cup on the box? Maybe a wire has come loose or something.
Actually, before you go doing all that, do this.......get a multimeter and set it to ac volts. Disconnect the sub speaker wire from the amp. Put your leads from the dmm in the speaker terminals where you just removed the speaker wire. Put in a cd and turn it up to moderate volume. If you see fluctuation in the voltage then your amp is putting out power and the problem is with the sub and/or it's wiring. If you don't get a reading then your amp is bad. After you do this process then you can continue with the other stuff I listed above.
Let me know what happens.
#12
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ok i planned on checking with a multimeter today actually. and as to lights coming on, when it didnt work at first i changedaround a few wires like the two inputs on my amp, and changed the output speaker wire. and then at one point, i would a sporadic bump come out and the power, protect and clip light would all blink on the amp. i work as a heavy equipment mechanic apprentice so at somepoint today ill be going to the shop to try and fix it, ill use the computer there to post more. thanks
#13
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ok i planned on checking with a multimeter today actually. and as to lights coming on, when it didnt work at first i changedaround a few wires like the two inputs on my amp, and changed the output speaker wire. and then at one point, i would a sporadic bump come out and the power, protect and clip light would all blink on the amp. i work as a heavy equipment mechanic apprentice so at somepoint today ill be going to the shop to try and fix it, ill use the computer there to post more. thanks
#14
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its a one channel amp. and it had to rca inputs is what i was reffering to. my power and ground are what you were suggesting and my remote wire is tied into the remote wire behind my deck. i switched my two rcas is what i meant
#15
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so having no idea what i did differently when i got to the shop today and hooked it back up, it worked. so now all i have todo is set all those lttle dials on the amp and i have no idea. if notnowing wont screw it up ill see if the guys i work with know someone who knows about as im new to bc. also i dont know how to set them right so i just tried to do what sounded right. but thanks for the help guys
#16
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So what did you switch?? The left/right or the in/output?? Whatever you did, good job. And I really thought that hooking the LOC up after the amp could fry it cause there is more power going to it than would be with a regular 23W channel output.