How to wire 8ohm subs to an amp!
#1
How to wire 8ohm subs to an amp!
I was doing some research online and seen some 6x9 subs (yes these are subs...LOL) that were 8ohms a piece.
Specs are:
*Power Handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max
*VCdia: 1-1/2"
*Impedance: 8 ohms
*Re: 6.5 ohms (which I have the slightest idea of what that means)
*Frequency range: 35-350 Hz
*Fs: 35 Hz
*SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.34 cu.ft.
*Qms: 6.05
*Qes: 0.37 *Qts: 0.35
*Xmax 7 mm
*Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 4-3/16".
I already have the factory amp still on my rear deck. I was wondering how to wire these subs so I can get the FULL POWER that is required for best results.
I was doing some checking online and could find an amp that will match it or there is no "how too" instructions. Instead of having a shop doing it for me, I rather do it myself (that way I know exactly what is what when it needs to be installed). Now I don't expect the amp to be that much (more like $60 - $150 for it).
Also I will like to know, can I wire 4 car speakers together off one amp?
Specs are:
*Power Handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max
*VCdia: 1-1/2"
*Impedance: 8 ohms
*Re: 6.5 ohms (which I have the slightest idea of what that means)
*Frequency range: 35-350 Hz
*Fs: 35 Hz
*SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.34 cu.ft.
*Qms: 6.05
*Qes: 0.37 *Qts: 0.35
*Xmax 7 mm
*Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 4-3/16".
I already have the factory amp still on my rear deck. I was wondering how to wire these subs so I can get the FULL POWER that is required for best results.
I was doing some checking online and could find an amp that will match it or there is no "how too" instructions. Instead of having a shop doing it for me, I rather do it myself (that way I know exactly what is what when it needs to be installed). Now I don't expect the amp to be that much (more like $60 - $150 for it).
Also I will like to know, can I wire 4 car speakers together off one amp?
#2
Select the quantity of subs, select the impedance of the voice coils, then click view wiring options:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html
#3
I was doing some research online and seen some 6x9 subs (yes these are subs...LOL) that were 8ohms a piece.
Specs are:
*Power Handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max
*VCdia: 1-1/2"
*Impedance: 8 ohms
*Re: 6.5 ohms (which I have the slightest idea of what that means)
*Frequency range: 35-350 Hz
*Fs: 35 Hz
*SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.34 cu.ft.
*Qms: 6.05
*Qes: 0.37 *Qts: 0.35
*Xmax 7 mm
*Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 4-3/16".
I already have the factory amp still on my rear deck. I was wondering how to wire these subs so I can get the FULL POWER that is required for best results.
I was doing some checking online and could find an amp that will match it or there is no "how too" instructions. Instead of having a shop doing it for me, I rather do it myself (that way I know exactly what is what when it needs to be installed). Now I don't expect the amp to be that much (more like $60 - $150 for it).
Also I will like to know, can I wire 4 car speakers together off one amp?
Specs are:
*Power Handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max
*VCdia: 1-1/2"
*Impedance: 8 ohms
*Re: 6.5 ohms (which I have the slightest idea of what that means)
*Frequency range: 35-350 Hz
*Fs: 35 Hz
*SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.34 cu.ft.
*Qms: 6.05
*Qes: 0.37 *Qts: 0.35
*Xmax 7 mm
*Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 4-3/16".
I already have the factory amp still on my rear deck. I was wondering how to wire these subs so I can get the FULL POWER that is required for best results.
I was doing some checking online and could find an amp that will match it or there is no "how too" instructions. Instead of having a shop doing it for me, I rather do it myself (that way I know exactly what is what when it needs to be installed). Now I don't expect the amp to be that much (more like $60 - $150 for it).
Also I will like to know, can I wire 4 car speakers together off one amp?
Doing so will give you a final impedance of 4 ohms for those.
As for running 4 speakers off one amp, of course you can. Do those 4 speakers include these 6x9 subs? If so, you're gonna want to run a 4ch amp that can be run in 4/3/2 ch configurations and run it in 3ch mode. That way your two fronts can be run in stereo off the front two channels and you can bridge channels 3 and 4 mono to run the 6x9's. But you're gonna have to find a 4ch that can put out 180rms @ 4ohms bridged.
#4
@DBS MC: you got the brand name right. I was reading the reviews and I see they are on the border line with some 8" - 10" subs (give or take) rating for bass.
By any chance, have you had some experience with them? Do you recommend them? I really do want to run all 4 speakers off a 4-channel amp but don't wanna cross frequencies and burn something out.
The specs from my front speakers are:
**which I do NOT have the crossover installed, just the tweeter and sub to the factory hu**
Audiobahn ABC600T
6-1/2" 2-way Component System
6.5" Matched Components
140W Continuous Power Handling
280W Maximum Power Handling
30HZ - 25KHZ Frequency Response
91dB Sensitivity
20 Oz. Magnet Structure
Honey Comb Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
2 Layer Hi-Temp Voice Coil
1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Soft Dome Tweeter w/Neodymium Magnet
Surface or Flush Mount Tweeters
12dB/Octave Separate Passive XOvers
4 ohm Impedance
All Mounting Hardware
Metal Grills
2-3/4" Mounting Depth
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Now, the front is working with 280 RMS (140 rms each speaker) and the rear is 180 RMS (90 rms each sub). So you saying I have to have an amp that is totalled to 500 - 600 RMS (for more power room) off a 4-channel AMP that can be bridged?
Even though the front speakers are 4 ohms, will I get good response from the rear subs by them being 8 ohms (converted into 4 ohms) or no?
By any chance, have you had some experience with them? Do you recommend them? I really do want to run all 4 speakers off a 4-channel amp but don't wanna cross frequencies and burn something out.
The specs from my front speakers are:
**which I do NOT have the crossover installed, just the tweeter and sub to the factory hu**
Audiobahn ABC600T
6-1/2" 2-way Component System
6.5" Matched Components
140W Continuous Power Handling
280W Maximum Power Handling
30HZ - 25KHZ Frequency Response
91dB Sensitivity
20 Oz. Magnet Structure
Honey Comb Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
2 Layer Hi-Temp Voice Coil
1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Soft Dome Tweeter w/Neodymium Magnet
Surface or Flush Mount Tweeters
12dB/Octave Separate Passive XOvers
4 ohm Impedance
All Mounting Hardware
Metal Grills
2-3/4" Mounting Depth
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Now, the front is working with 280 RMS (140 rms each speaker) and the rear is 180 RMS (90 rms each sub). So you saying I have to have an amp that is totalled to 500 - 600 RMS (for more power room) off a 4-channel AMP that can be bridged?
Even though the front speakers are 4 ohms, will I get good response from the rear subs by them being 8 ohms (converted into 4 ohms) or no?
#5
Could this amp manage the RMS power total for all speakers?
PLANET AUDIO VX3004 600watt RMS 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLANE...fAudioQ5fVideo
2 x 300 watts RMS bridged @ 4 ohms
4 X 75 RMS @ 4 Ohms
Dimensions 14 3/4" (L) x 2-7/16" (H) x 10-5/8" (W)
Signal To Noise Ratio 102 dB
Frequency Response 20 Hz to 20KHz
High and Low Level Inputs
Tri Mode Capability
Line Out
Low/High Pass Crossover
Switchable Input Sensitivity 100m-8V
Built-In Continuously Variable High and Low Pass Crossovers
Continuously Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB
Illuminated Logo
Exclusive Patent Pending Invisible Mounting System
Chrome Plated Connectors
12 pounds!
This amp my not be the TOP OF THE BRAND NAME type, but its something to control the power of my speakers (if possible)....
PLANET AUDIO VX3004 600watt RMS 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLANE...fAudioQ5fVideo
2 x 300 watts RMS bridged @ 4 ohms
4 X 75 RMS @ 4 Ohms
Dimensions 14 3/4" (L) x 2-7/16" (H) x 10-5/8" (W)
Signal To Noise Ratio 102 dB
Frequency Response 20 Hz to 20KHz
High and Low Level Inputs
Tri Mode Capability
Line Out
Low/High Pass Crossover
Switchable Input Sensitivity 100m-8V
Built-In Continuously Variable High and Low Pass Crossovers
Continuously Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB
Illuminated Logo
Exclusive Patent Pending Invisible Mounting System
Chrome Plated Connectors
12 pounds!
This amp my not be the TOP OF THE BRAND NAME type, but its something to control the power of my speakers (if possible)....
#6
round subs are easier to work out. some 6" subs would work nice, those JL's do 120 a pop on sonic.
but you could wire those 6x9"s together run them mono if you're running them on the low end anyways. are you low passing them or high passing them above your sub? i run my 6x9's right above the curve of my sub, which is ran all the way up to 95 hrz. but my sub can play it with eas and my 6x9's play the above great as well, i run 6x9 cadence's that run pretty low and can work as 6x9 subs, but i dont run em that low. dont run your 6x9's into your usbs frequency ranges or you'll have cancellation.
but you could wire those 6x9"s together run them mono if you're running them on the low end anyways. are you low passing them or high passing them above your sub? i run my 6x9's right above the curve of my sub, which is ran all the way up to 95 hrz. but my sub can play it with eas and my 6x9's play the above great as well, i run 6x9 cadence's that run pretty low and can work as 6x9 subs, but i dont run em that low. dont run your 6x9's into your usbs frequency ranges or you'll have cancellation.
#7
@DBS MC: you got the brand name right. I was reading the reviews and I see they are on the border line with some 8" - 10" subs (give or take) rating for bass.
By any chance, have you had some experience with them? Do you recommend them? I really do want to run all 4 speakers off a 4-channel amp but don't wanna cross frequencies and burn something out.
The specs from my front speakers are:
**which I do NOT have the crossover installed, just the tweeter and sub to the factory hu**
Audiobahn ABC600T
6-1/2" 2-way Component System
6.5" Matched Components
140W Continuous Power Handling
280W Maximum Power Handling
30HZ - 25KHZ Frequency Response
91dB Sensitivity
20 Oz. Magnet Structure
Honey Comb Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
2 Layer Hi-Temp Voice Coil
1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Soft Dome Tweeter w/Neodymium Magnet
Surface or Flush Mount Tweeters
12dB/Octave Separate Passive XOvers
4 ohm Impedance
All Mounting Hardware
Metal Grills
2-3/4" Mounting Depth
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Now, the front is working with 280 RMS (140 rms each speaker) and the rear is 180 RMS (90 rms each sub). So you saying I have to have an amp that is totalled to 500 - 600 RMS (for more power room) off a 4-channel AMP that can be bridged?
Even though the front speakers are 4 ohms, will I get good response from the rear subs by them being 8 ohms (converted into 4 ohms) or no?
By any chance, have you had some experience with them? Do you recommend them? I really do want to run all 4 speakers off a 4-channel amp but don't wanna cross frequencies and burn something out.
The specs from my front speakers are:
**which I do NOT have the crossover installed, just the tweeter and sub to the factory hu**
Audiobahn ABC600T
6-1/2" 2-way Component System
6.5" Matched Components
140W Continuous Power Handling
280W Maximum Power Handling
30HZ - 25KHZ Frequency Response
91dB Sensitivity
20 Oz. Magnet Structure
Honey Comb Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
2 Layer Hi-Temp Voice Coil
1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Soft Dome Tweeter w/Neodymium Magnet
Surface or Flush Mount Tweeters
12dB/Octave Separate Passive XOvers
4 ohm Impedance
All Mounting Hardware
Metal Grills
2-3/4" Mounting Depth
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Now, the front is working with 280 RMS (140 rms each speaker) and the rear is 180 RMS (90 rms each sub). So you saying I have to have an amp that is totalled to 500 - 600 RMS (for more power room) off a 4-channel AMP that can be bridged?
Even though the front speakers are 4 ohms, will I get good response from the rear subs by them being 8 ohms (converted into 4 ohms) or no?
#8
Darn DBS, I thought I had something for a minute there. I just want good car bass (without the 10 - 15" subs for that DEEP bass). I already have those....LOL
I just want to clean up my sound inside my car and have that good bass response from my interior speakers...(not matching a SUBWOOFER)
@walkinonabullet: Too many numbers (95hrz) to figure out what it mean....LOL. I gotta get my ed-ja-mah-cahion on dealing with this audio readings....LMAO
I know how to hook up the basic sub and amp but when it comes to the specs, thats where I need help at. Its not the name nor the WEBSITE reviews of why I wanted the subs (6x9's), its because I have been on various websites and I just see mainly good reviews and less bad reviews about them. I sure do not want no junk that will POP as soon as I install it, but I sure can't afford the high end speakers as well that cost $100 - $200 EACH...SMH!!!
Thanks for the help though guys!!!
I just want to clean up my sound inside my car and have that good bass response from my interior speakers...(not matching a SUBWOOFER)
@walkinonabullet: Too many numbers (95hrz) to figure out what it mean....LOL. I gotta get my ed-ja-mah-cahion on dealing with this audio readings....LMAO
I know how to hook up the basic sub and amp but when it comes to the specs, thats where I need help at. Its not the name nor the WEBSITE reviews of why I wanted the subs (6x9's), its because I have been on various websites and I just see mainly good reviews and less bad reviews about them. I sure do not want no junk that will POP as soon as I install it, but I sure can't afford the high end speakers as well that cost $100 - $200 EACH...SMH!!!
Thanks for the help though guys!!!
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