doubt it, really just sounds like their playing to low and distorting. ive heard the same distorion on other drivers playing out of their friendly range, id guess 300 - 350 is more it's meal.

i have some updates, got off work and imedialy went to work on the new baffle build for my doors. found some very disturbing results of a previouse baffel build as you'll see in a moment once you start scrolling pictures, i cadaloged this process pretty well, probobly to well for such a simple build but i was bored. roughly 16 pictures i think tehe XD


very damaged...all this damn rain really did a number on them, thy've only been in the car since july, i built em right before a meet.

size comparison, perspective is key.




as you can see, the cone it's self is as large as the old cut out.


wee bit to small


oh, and heres a picture of the work area.


added a little meat to the edges so they woudln't be to weak.







whelp, the specs dont lie, 3 5\8", i have 3 3\8" at the VERY bottom of my ring, the pertrution is about a 2 inch ring in the center on the back of the engine, so technicly i shdouln't hit it, but just for insurance.







now we're just about at 3 1\4" which is a 1\8th smaller than the tightest clearence and by the way, everywhere else the clearence is 3 5\8" so we were JUST their for making it, def gonna wanna be careful with the window down, don't wanna shatter that bad boy



the old fiberglass shelf, we meet again old friend. i tried some new stuff this time, i got some epoxy ressin, it's wonderful to work with, smells delightful to be honest smells like pine to me haha. idk if its a bad or good thing that i like the smell.

and hanging up to dry, this time we are making sure their are no leaks

 

I worked on it all day yesterday, and i really didn't get much done sadly



this is about the most i got done, i know the cut out is rought but meh it's the floor, i really didn't care. hopefully has enough surface area left in the end to fit the amps in their :\ gonna have to work it out. might have to put my one PDX amp up under the rear deck.


the first resin batch was a flop, most of it fell off and what didn't, soaked in. the mixture was off, it never hardened, i ended up using the normal resin to get the job done. and I had some cans of quiet kote, so i took the librity of sealing them and deadening them up a bit further with that. i'll sitll be decoupling them, but i'm trying to get as much on their so that i have as much clearence as possible, i might even have to shim the bottom of it :\



alright, well I got the speakers baffles and speakers in, not a single clearence issue, surprisenly.







window down.




these things truly are beastly. and power hundry, the PDX 4.150 i have powering em right now is barley doing it. I think i might bridge it till I get the new clarion amp's in.



this is where the problem began, well it was expected but I had hopes it woudln't be a problem, but what ya gonna do. so, i've started a little I removed the stock grill, and I've cut it
out a little bit so that I can get an idea of what I've got going on, i'm still unsure on how to finish them.





so, this is the question, if I raise them into the panel, i might just be opening a can of warms. their going in the doors, kicks are not an option for these to me. so, let's get that out of the way right now.

so heres what i'm talking about raising them into the door panel. this is bings work.



so, should i raise them like this, or keep them in the baffles I made and just make the grill like that. thoughts, ideas. GO!

 

i dig those door panels there at the bottom. would look nice if you could figure out a way to do that with some fiberglass..

 

looking good man, always love an audio build!

 

it'll be something like that, except it'll be just the cloth, so it'll be very shallow compared to that work. the out edge will be rougly something like this. the oragnge ring being the grill. i will probobly make it larger than the speaker so that I can remove the speaker with out the door panel

 

yeah man that would look awesome and clean! i have been thinking of just mounting a speaker over the existing hole like jaws did cause i hate taking my door panels off.. but your way would look cleaner.

 

ya.. this is what I did..

I really had no choice.. those things are over 5" deep almost 6 if I remember.. I modded the stock mount honestly for 12 hours straight.. and either the window would not go down.. or the door panel wouldn't fit on.. so I went back to my original plan.. which is the picture..

I had those RE XXX on a bridged Rockford T600-4 about 300rms. tuned with the SMD DD-1 and they just about took it.. had to turn gain down abit

Im plannin some sick stuff for the Chrysler 300 ill post of pics sometime.. and vids on my youtube

 

that is quite the solution. def not an option here for me, these L8's have an emence amount of energy in them, if i took them off the door they'd rattle like nobodys buisness. you should try doing it that way that bing does his work.

 

What size (6.5", 6.75", or 8") did you put in the doors that they were nearly 6" deep?

 

Looks like 8" mid-bass ... (?)