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00-05 how to install subs and an amp to your factory head unit

  #21  
Old 07-16-2010, 12:25 AM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Windy City, Chi-Town
Posts: 416
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Don't mind the hands guys, had a bit of the 3rd degree burn touch going on there....LOL Thank goodness im alright though! :-)
 
  #22  
Old 07-16-2010, 05:14 AM
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
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so im a loser and dont actually have a monte carlo i was just searching the web trying to find how to use this darn sni-35.. my speakers are in my door.... any suggestions on how to connect it to those?
 
  #23  
Old 07-16-2010, 07:51 AM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Windy City, Chi-Town
Posts: 416
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Its possible! What is your setup throughout your car? Do you have an aftermarket radio? A factory amp for your speakers? What is the year, make & model of your vehicle? Because, if you do have a new headunit (new radio), the RCA jacks are already in place for you to connect that too the amp in the rear (without the SNI-35, which is not needed in this case). If you do have the factory amp (to power your door speakers), you can connect the SNI-35 wires with the speaker wires from the amp itself. You have to know what wire color belongs to which speaker for the right connection!

Also, If you give me the info about your car, I can try to look up the wire colors for you if so!

Hope this helps!
 
  #24  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:12 PM
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
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I have a 2003 mazda protege 5 stock radio i dont think there is an amp or anything in it already. I just have 1 12 inch rockford punch and 1 500w rockford amp that im trying to hook up. the sni 35 is needed because i pulled out my radio and there was no rca cables. so I looked up the color coding for the wires. now i just need to know how to hook it up to the wires thanks for any info i just havent ever done wiring at all.. or car stereos for that matter
 
  #25  
Old 07-16-2010, 10:02 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Windy City, Chi-Town
Posts: 416
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What you do since you don't have a factory amp, you go to the back of your stereo and splice the speaker wires (so you can add the sni-35 wires with the right speaker wires).

**splicing your wires is 2nd to best connection you could ever have (besides soldering it, which is the best). When you splice your wires, just cut a slit down the middle of your "Factory speaker wires" and make a hole so your converter (SNI-35) speaker wires will fit straight through and twist them together for better connection.**

I strongly advise you to get a wire stripper, that way you can't harm the wires while stripping them to the copper.

Here is your radio wires from www.the12volt.com:

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - MAZDA / PROTEGE / 2003 / Audio


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


Radio 12v blue/red + radio harness
Radio Ground black - radio harness
Radio Ignition pink/black + radio harness
Radio Illumination lt. green/black + radio harness
Factory Amp Turn-on
Power Antenna N/A
LF Speaker +/- black/red - black/white +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- red - white +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- brown/white - brown +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- green - green/orange +,- radio harness
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A
Notes: N/A

Here is the SNI-35 wire information from http://archive.pac-audio.com/product...-An-Amplifier:


SNI-35 converts 2 to 40 watts per channel speaker level output into a pre-amp signal. Perfect when adding an amplifier to a factory or aftermarket radio. Great for getting an additional set of pre-amps outputs from a head unit equipped with only one set.
• Fixed 10:1 conversion.
• Linear from 20-20,000Hz at +/- 5 dB, while maintaining signal phase.
• Isolates input and output circuits to prevent ground loop noise.
White: Left(+) speaker
White/Black: Left(-) speaker
Grey: Right(+) speaker
Grey/Black: Right(-) speaker

Everything is basically color coded, all you have to do is connect your converter wires with your radio speaker wires (with the guide that is provided) and then you have your connection with your SNI-35 & Car speaker wires....
 
  #26  
Old 07-16-2010, 11:10 PM
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3,221
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What size is your power wire, 4ga?
 
  #27  
Old 07-17-2010, 03:03 AM
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
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8 ga.. and there is no room behind the stereo, can i just install it into the floor where the speaker wire runs to the back speaker?
 
  #28  
Old 07-17-2010, 10:47 PM
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3,221
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Originally Posted by 2002MonteSS View Post
I folded the back seat down so I could hear how it sounds with the subs ported and it really doesn't make any difference at all, inside the car it sounds the same so I really don't see the point in removing the 6x9's. If anything, it makes me want to remove the fold down seat so I can see my sub bumping all the time.
After reading the above, my first thought was "what the hell? How can you not hear a difference with the seat up vs. seat down?" But then I read further and based on your comment "so I can see my sub bumping all the time" I am going to assume your subs are firing forward???

Do this one time, next time you're listening to your music have a friend open your trunk for you while you're listening to it and let me know what happens. It will be noticeable and will confirm that due to the positioning of your subs you are experiencing major cancellation and it's because of this cancellation that you can't hear a difference with the seat up or down. I used to have my subs positioned like this and know for a fact that unless you've gone through the pain of sealing off the baffle of your box from the trunk as well as sealing off the whole rear deck, your bass suffers from cancellation big time!

Turn your box around so the subs fire toward the back bumper and then do that test again (both the seat up/down test as well as the trunk open/closed test) and I guarantee you your results will be different this time around.

***THE ABOVE IS ONLY TRUE IF YOU HAVE A PORTED SUB BOX***
Originally Posted by eviling View Post
it is a well knowen fact that rear speakers are not needed in a system. i really dont know what your doing that you cant hear the difference but if you really aren't than something is certainly wrong, with your hearing or the output signal, other than that idk what to tell ya. good luck.
Slow down guy, you're not exactly the car audio prophet you think you are. It's not a well known fact that rear fill is not needed in a system. Whether or not it's needed or even advised to run rear fill is completely dictated by the owners goal for the system. If you want a true SQ level system then no it's not advised to run rear fill. But if you don't care about imaging and staging and just want something that sounds better and gets louder than run as much rear fill as you want.

I personally don't run rear fill, but i'm more concerned with accurate sound than overall loudness.

What he's doing wrong is facing the subs forward instead of backward, resulting in significant cancellation due to standing back waves. If you knew as much about car audio as you think you do you would have spotted that and gave him the appropriate advice as I did in my previous post.

Originally Posted by 2002MonteSS View Post
it is a subwoofer, low frequency travels easily thru the backseat so porting it thru the speaker grills or folding down the seat is not even noticeable....and it is so friggen loud that it does not matter what direction it is facing or if the trunk is open or closed... it is just plain loud. No need to leave empty holes in the back where I could utilize those holes with extra power, and rear speakers are not needed but they do sound better with 4 instead of 2 and I am trying to increase the volume on the mids and high's so removing them does not make much sense at all.
Yes, bass will travel into the cabin with the back seat up....I even built an amp rack that blocked the open area that would be there if you were to fold the back seats down and the bass still got into the cabin. However, there was a noticeable difference in loudness with the seat down and with the 6x9's removed, as in noticeably louder! In all fairness though, these tests were not done with my subs forward facing, as soon as I noticed the bass would get louder when I opened the trunk I realized what was going on and ever since my subs have always faced the rear and it's in this config that I did these tests.

Does a system sound better with rear speakers vs. without them, that's a personal preference. I think it sounds way better w/o rear speakers for a few reasons.....rear fill interferes with the sound stage and imaging of a system UNLESS THE PAINSTAKING HOURS OF TESTING AND TUNING HAVE BEEN DONE TO BALANCE IT ALL OUT. Not only that but when you have subs in the trunk, all that air pressure has to go somewhere and when you have speakers in the rear deck that pressure will affect the cone movement of said speakers which can result in less than ideal output and even some bottoming out. Lastly, allowing the bass a clear path into the cabin through an unobstructed opening via no speakers in rear deck or with the seat folded down will result in increased SPL inside the cabin as less of the energy will be absorbed by all the obstructions.

For you, you seem more concerned with overall volume than sound stage and imaging so you would like having rear fill. But if you're gonna keep your rear speakers and run high powered subs I would suggest putting them in baffles to at least deflect as much of that pressure as possible.

Originally Posted by 2002MonteSS View Post
You should grow some thick skin if you want to go around on the internet giving out bad advice...
Do you know what is involved in removing the 6x9's?
You think I want to go to all that trouble to remove them so they can port the subs from the trunk?
Boost the fronts is fine, but to REMOVE the rears is pointless.
LOL, true.

Yes, piece of cake!

If you heard the difference w/o rear fill and with a properly tuned/aligned system I think you too would be convinced that building a strong front stage and ditching the rear deck speakers would be the way to go.

Think about it this way, if you were at a concert and scored lower level tickets right in the middle of the stage, wouldn't it bug you out that you're standing right there in front of the band playing on stage but yet all the music is coming from behind you? That's essentially what you're aiming for in your car. Not my idea of a good sounding setup. In my car you can get in the drivers seat, close your eyes and it sounds as if you're floor level, center stage and you can literally pinpoint where the vocals and instruments are coming from out in front of you. To me, that's what a system should sound like. But different strokes for different folks.
 

Last edited by 04MonteLS; 07-18-2010 at 08:44 AM.
  #29  
Old 07-18-2010, 04:35 AM
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
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Yeah I think you are talking to the wrong guy. I have a 500w amp.
 
  #30  
Old 07-18-2010, 09:04 AM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Windy City, Chi-Town
Posts: 416
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Yeah, you can install it whereva the speaker wires are. Just make sure you have enough speaker wire! Then after that is installed, you can use your rca cables from the converter and connect it to your amp...
 

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