My Slow Build Thread
#12
10-01-2011, 09:21 PM
Thanks 
It says you're in Michigan, maybe next summer you can check it out at Woodward or something
It says you're in Michigan, maybe next summer you can check it out at Woodward or something
#15
10-09-2011, 11:39 AM
I can't wait to put my aeroforce in, another random question, what should I gap the spark plugs to when I put them in? Oh well, I guess I'll have to do some searching
#16
10-10-2011, 09:36 PM
I also think a 3.4" is overly optimistic. I've seen L67's just get KR under control with those mods- and you're almost a full point higher compression. I wouldn't be so worried about getting to a certain pulley size as I would be being happy with the car. Most L67's have KR bone stock on a 3.8" pulley, so just by you running higher compression, you're going to have a decent amount of KR to get rid of with mods just as it is with the stock pulley.
If it were me, I'd leave the stock pulley on for the time being, they're relatively easy to change later. Then once you get the car running correctly with the swap and new mods, then think about doing your pulley drop and custom tune. The thing is, a good tuner can get rid of a bunch of KR, but IMO, you're better off not pushing it too far on the boost- you end up having to kill KR with reduced timing and drowning it in fuel.
If you're that tight on money- I'd skip the AF gauge (especially if you're just going to put it on a narrowband sensor), your tuner can still tune it just fine- a WB is obviously better, but you're on a really tight budget and aren't tuning a NIC or some kind of big cam setup. I would've also skipped the aeroforce- just too much money for a small budget, and you could've saved on a pod for the gauges too. All those mods on a stock 3.8" pulley would be plenty safe, then drop to your 3.4, 3.5, whatever just before going to your tuner- and have them scan and tune for it. If they tuned it properly and with some safety margin, you wouldn't really have to worry about KR again unless you put 87 in it or something crazy like that.
I'd skip the poly mounts- just rotate the stock mounts 90*. Doesn't do as much as polys, but many people end up selling polys anyways because they vibrate too much. IMO too much money for virtually no gain on a setup like that on a budget.
I'd also scrap the wizair idea. A HAI will work, but IMO, the best option would be to get the filter moved as far to the fenderwell as possible, use some of that plastic roof flashing to cover the filter from the engine bay side so it only sucks from the fenderwell. As long as your wheel well liners are in place, you won't be getting any real debris or any water that high up anyways.
If it were me, I'd leave the stock pulley on for the time being, they're relatively easy to change later. Then once you get the car running correctly with the swap and new mods, then think about doing your pulley drop and custom tune. The thing is, a good tuner can get rid of a bunch of KR, but IMO, you're better off not pushing it too far on the boost- you end up having to kill KR with reduced timing and drowning it in fuel.
If you're that tight on money- I'd skip the AF gauge (especially if you're just going to put it on a narrowband sensor), your tuner can still tune it just fine- a WB is obviously better, but you're on a really tight budget and aren't tuning a NIC or some kind of big cam setup. I would've also skipped the aeroforce- just too much money for a small budget, and you could've saved on a pod for the gauges too. All those mods on a stock 3.8" pulley would be plenty safe, then drop to your 3.4, 3.5, whatever just before going to your tuner- and have them scan and tune for it. If they tuned it properly and with some safety margin, you wouldn't really have to worry about KR again unless you put 87 in it or something crazy like that.
I'd skip the poly mounts- just rotate the stock mounts 90*. Doesn't do as much as polys, but many people end up selling polys anyways because they vibrate too much. IMO too much money for virtually no gain on a setup like that on a budget.
I'd also scrap the wizair idea. A HAI will work, but IMO, the best option would be to get the filter moved as far to the fenderwell as possible, use some of that plastic roof flashing to cover the filter from the engine bay side so it only sucks from the fenderwell. As long as your wheel well liners are in place, you won't be getting any real debris or any water that high up anyways.
#17
10-13-2011, 07:09 PM
I also think a 3.4" is overly optimistic. I've seen L67's just get KR under control with those mods- and you're almost a full point higher compression. I wouldn't be so worried about getting to a certain pulley size as I would be being happy with the car. Most L67's have KR bone stock on a 3.8" pulley, so just by you running higher compression, you're going to have a decent amount of KR to get rid of with mods just as it is with the stock pulley.
If it were me, I'd leave the stock pulley on for the time being, they're relatively easy to change later. Then once you get the car running correctly with the swap and new mods, then think about doing your pulley drop and custom tune. The thing is, a good tuner can get rid of a bunch of KR, but IMO, you're better off not pushing it too far on the boost- you end up having to kill KR with reduced timing and drowning it in fuel.
If you're that tight on money- I'd skip the AF gauge (especially if you're just going to put it on a narrowband sensor), your tuner can still tune it just fine- a WB is obviously better, but you're on a really tight budget and aren't tuning a NIC or some kind of big cam setup. I would've also skipped the aeroforce- just too much money for a small budget, and you could've saved on a pod for the gauges too. All those mods on a stock 3.8" pulley would be plenty safe, then drop to your 3.4, 3.5, whatever just before going to your tuner- and have them scan and tune for it. If they tuned it properly and with some safety margin, you wouldn't really have to worry about KR again unless you put 87 in it or something crazy like that.
I'd skip the poly mounts- just rotate the stock mounts 90*. Doesn't do as much as polys, but many people end up selling polys anyways because they vibrate too much. IMO too much money for virtually no gain on a setup like that on a budget.
I'd also scrap the wizair idea. A HAI will work, but IMO, the best option would be to get the filter moved as far to the fenderwell as possible, use some of that plastic roof flashing to cover the filter from the engine bay side so it only sucks from the fenderwell. As long as your wheel well liners are in place, you won't be getting any real debris or any water that high up anyways.
If it were me, I'd leave the stock pulley on for the time being, they're relatively easy to change later. Then once you get the car running correctly with the swap and new mods, then think about doing your pulley drop and custom tune. The thing is, a good tuner can get rid of a bunch of KR, but IMO, you're better off not pushing it too far on the boost- you end up having to kill KR with reduced timing and drowning it in fuel.
If you're that tight on money- I'd skip the AF gauge (especially if you're just going to put it on a narrowband sensor), your tuner can still tune it just fine- a WB is obviously better, but you're on a really tight budget and aren't tuning a NIC or some kind of big cam setup. I would've also skipped the aeroforce- just too much money for a small budget, and you could've saved on a pod for the gauges too. All those mods on a stock 3.8" pulley would be plenty safe, then drop to your 3.4, 3.5, whatever just before going to your tuner- and have them scan and tune for it. If they tuned it properly and with some safety margin, you wouldn't really have to worry about KR again unless you put 87 in it or something crazy like that.
I'd skip the poly mounts- just rotate the stock mounts 90*. Doesn't do as much as polys, but many people end up selling polys anyways because they vibrate too much. IMO too much money for virtually no gain on a setup like that on a budget.
I'd also scrap the wizair idea. A HAI will work, but IMO, the best option would be to get the filter moved as far to the fenderwell as possible, use some of that plastic roof flashing to cover the filter from the engine bay side so it only sucks from the fenderwell. As long as your wheel well liners are in place, you won't be getting any real debris or any water that high up anyways.
As a random side note the guage pod was given to me by a buddy.
#18
10-13-2011, 10:04 PM
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#19
10-14-2011, 02:07 PM
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#20
10-17-2011, 02:09 PM
Tiny update: This weekend I swapped out my front three plugs for autolite copper, as it will be a few months before the top swap. Also, I greased my ball joints and touched up on two little rust spots. Waiting for the narrowband to come in the mail so I can install it with my aeroforce!