L67 Swap Question
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,465
Too bad, I just had my passenger axle out a few weeks ago, I could've measured it then. I don't happen to know off the top of my head either. If you're just rebuilding the axle, there are grooves that the new boot will sit on. If you have the boot lined up with the grooves, you should have no issues with length.
Thanks for sharing pictures, it's a neat looking setup!
I do have one question and two suggestions:
-Question: What is the y in the intake for just before the maf sensor? It looks like a blocked off dead end from this angle.
-Suggestion 1 - I'd strongly reccomend getting rid of those hose clamps on thr FPR. No doubt it technically works, but there are much safer ways to attach it. I believe one of the hose companies makes an adapter to connect to the quick disconnect on the stock rail to convert it to AN. Since you're only running a few inches of hose, it wouldn't be that expensive. That front connection just makes me nervous because if the hose did pop off, it's aimed right at the front exhaust manifold area.
-Suggestion 2 - perhaps you should consider wrapping that upper charge pipe with some sort of heat barrier? I know it goes to the IC afterwards, but I'm sure you're picking up some heat running all that distance so close to the front manifold.
Thanks for sharing pictures, it's a neat looking setup!
I do have one question and two suggestions:
-Question: What is the y in the intake for just before the maf sensor? It looks like a blocked off dead end from this angle.
-Suggestion 1 - I'd strongly reccomend getting rid of those hose clamps on thr FPR. No doubt it technically works, but there are much safer ways to attach it. I believe one of the hose companies makes an adapter to connect to the quick disconnect on the stock rail to convert it to AN. Since you're only running a few inches of hose, it wouldn't be that expensive. That front connection just makes me nervous because if the hose did pop off, it's aimed right at the front exhaust manifold area.
-Suggestion 2 - perhaps you should consider wrapping that upper charge pipe with some sort of heat barrier? I know it goes to the IC afterwards, but I'm sure you're picking up some heat running all that distance so close to the front manifold.
Last edited by bumpin96monte; Jan 20, 2016 at 04:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 33
Awesome, let me kno if you can. Bumpin96, I greatly appreciate any suggestions and all the feedback, obviously it's a work in progress and eventually ill even wrap the exhaust too but I will definitely address the fuel lines first as that could be very dangerous and also i'd hate to lose the whole build lol. To answer your question as simply as possible about the "y" in the intake, I was initially playing around with a twincharged setup and I had a secondary throttle body there(acting as a bypass) to give the supercharger plenty of air when building instant boost (then it would close around 4000-4500 rpms). Obviously more power is to be made without parasitic affect so eventually I pulled the rotors and blocked the s/c and the bypass.
you can cut the stock fuel line at the firewall and install a swagelok fitting that converts over to AN fittings and then run braided hose/ AN fittings to your fuel rail. this is the best and safest method.
not sure if it is or not but that dead end on the intake that you have capped off could potentially cause turbulance there and hurt flow... may wanna consider cutting it off at the main pipe and capping it there instead of having that useless leg coming off of it.
sweet build!!
not sure if it is or not but that dead end on the intake that you have capped off could potentially cause turbulance there and hurt flow... may wanna consider cutting it off at the main pipe and capping it there instead of having that useless leg coming off of it.
sweet build!!
