5th Gen ('95-'99): Just Bought a '95 Z34
After having not owned a Monte Carlo since 2006, I rejoined the ranks earlier this month when I scooped up a '95 Z34 from the local classifieds.
It first appeared on December 1 at an asking price of $1200, but that was too high for me. I figured I'd jump on it if it came down to $700. Well, I watched and waited for a month and a half, and on January 15 I drove it home for $500.
It's white, with black leather interior. Has 259,000 km (161,000 miles) on it and the much maligned 3.4L DOHC seems to run extremely well. The body is solid but is losing its paint in a few areas.
Some questions to start:
1. Would a 1995 model be OBD II equipped?
2. Where is the ABS controller located?
3. Do GM dealers still produce ignition keys for these cars?
4. How do I remove the air bag coil from the steering column?
It first appeared on December 1 at an asking price of $1200, but that was too high for me. I figured I'd jump on it if it came down to $700. Well, I watched and waited for a month and a half, and on January 15 I drove it home for $500.
It's white, with black leather interior. Has 259,000 km (161,000 miles) on it and the much maligned 3.4L DOHC seems to run extremely well. The body is solid but is losing its paint in a few areas.
Some questions to start:
1. Would a 1995 model be OBD II equipped?
2. Where is the ABS controller located?
3. Do GM dealers still produce ignition keys for these cars?
4. How do I remove the air bag coil from the steering column?
actually the 95 is what some people call obd 1.5 GM jumped the gun and released an early beta of what obd 2 was going to be.... so its not either. GM should still make the keys at the dealer for it. you will need your old one so they can check the resistor in it to match up the new key.
some key issues to watch, if your not familiar with that engine are:
-oil pump drive shaft leak. this is pretty much under the TB on the block. the LIM will need to come off and some cutting of the rear head bolt boss will be needed to lift up the shaft. clean it and RTV or quicksteal epoxi it shut and then you are golden and will never have a leak again.
-timing belt. its a pain but required every 75k
-timing chain and tensioner. it is a little known fact that GM put both on this engine. the chain drives the belt. my engine died cause the chain tensioner broke and made the chain skip a tooth. with 160k i would look into repairing this ASAP along with the timing belt.
this is a lot of work I know. other options... drive it till the motor goes boom and swap to a l67 or l36 topswap like i did. the 95 will need changes to the interior harness and a diff cluster, but other then that a swap will go fine.
some key issues to watch, if your not familiar with that engine are:
-oil pump drive shaft leak. this is pretty much under the TB on the block. the LIM will need to come off and some cutting of the rear head bolt boss will be needed to lift up the shaft. clean it and RTV or quicksteal epoxi it shut and then you are golden and will never have a leak again.
-timing belt. its a pain but required every 75k
-timing chain and tensioner. it is a little known fact that GM put both on this engine. the chain drives the belt. my engine died cause the chain tensioner broke and made the chain skip a tooth. with 160k i would look into repairing this ASAP along with the timing belt.
this is a lot of work I know. other options... drive it till the motor goes boom and swap to a l67 or l36 topswap like i did. the 95 will need changes to the interior harness and a diff cluster, but other then that a swap will go fine.
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