Anybody done a mpg based build?
#12
hv3 is something i don't feel like doing but thanks for suggestion
K and N filters are bad. They increase flow because the gaps in the filter are bigger so they catch less debris. After haveing on on my 1994 Lumina for 5 years and cleaning it regularly my throttlebody became clogged and engine started dieing, mpg reduced, and lost power. Stick with a stock filter. My mechanic was the one who told me about K&N. Been going to him for 10 years dont think he would lie.
I've never had a problem with the k&n filters, ran them in all my vehicles so far so good
What's the point of spending a lot of money to increase your MPGs by a slight amount?
Have you done the math to figure out how much you are spending, what you expect to gain, and how long that will take to get back from the pumps?
I'm trying to keep that in mind thanks for the reminder though
out of curiosity what's everybody currently averaging for mpg's??
K and N filters are bad. They increase flow because the gaps in the filter are bigger so they catch less debris. After haveing on on my 1994 Lumina for 5 years and cleaning it regularly my throttlebody became clogged and engine started dieing, mpg reduced, and lost power. Stick with a stock filter. My mechanic was the one who told me about K&N. Been going to him for 10 years dont think he would lie.
I've never had a problem with the k&n filters, ran them in all my vehicles so far so good
What's the point of spending a lot of money to increase your MPGs by a slight amount?
Have you done the math to figure out how much you are spending, what you expect to gain, and how long that will take to get back from the pumps?
I'm trying to keep that in mind thanks for the reminder though
out of curiosity what's everybody currently averaging for mpg's??
#13
I run about 19 mpg in my traffic driving, and I am quite hard on the throttle.
When I'm doing highway runs to and from the Poconos visiting family, I usually average 31-32mpg
Instead of doing an MPG build, tuning your own cars might help. Dial in your a/f ratios
When I'm doing highway runs to and from the Poconos visiting family, I usually average 31-32mpg
Instead of doing an MPG build, tuning your own cars might help. Dial in your a/f ratios
#14
*returns to topic*
I agree with Chibi - there's no point in paying to save gas
#15
This is so much the million dollar question! The whole industry really needs to ask it. I've always maintained that it is more than pointless to pay a premium to save gas. That's whats missing from the whole Obama/ GM vision. That's why hybrids suck. Civic's charge something like $10,000 more for a hybrid. Even the Toyota Camry charges $1000 more for a hybrid, which as far as I can tell its the closest margin in the industry. How long would it take to save $1000 in gas driving a Camry Hybrid over an already fuel efficient Camry 4 cylinder? Its not like a Hybrid means free gas. The kind of driving I do, I wouldn't be spending $40/month in the regular efficient Camry. Even if the hybrid uses half as much (it uses more than that), then it would take more then 4 years to get your money back. And your money is tied up in loans and interest and yadda, yadda. Mind you, this Camry example is probably the most attractive hybrid package. Most manufacturers do want 5000-10000 more for there hybrid and you'll likely never come close to making the money back. *end rant*
*returns to topic*
I agree with Chibi - there's no point in paying to save gas
*returns to topic*
I agree with Chibi - there's no point in paying to save gas
Premium vs reg if you have a nonboosted engine reg is fine no real difference in savings. Boosted engines need premium to reduce pre ignition especially on modded engines. My 70 dart swinger is real bad about that.
#16
Other hand doing small mods like u bend delete, cutting weight, CAI, ect.. can increase mileage and if you keep your car for a long time can save you money. But if you increase milage by 3-4 being optomistic it will still take maybe a year or more to start getting money back. I drive 1 hr a day each way to work and back. I average 25 mpg with a 3800 S/C. If i get on a big rigs *** on the highway and draft him i get up to 31 which is better then 28 that is posted. As velocity increases wind resistance increases as it's square. So faster you drive wind resistance pushes way harder back its a parabolic curve not a 1 to 1 line. Driving 5 under instead of over or drafting a big rig or combining the two will give you significant increases in Mile per gallon without costing any money.
#17
i got it, save the money you would dump into your car and buy a 5spd dohc saturn s-series with a sohc 5th gear swap then you'll get 40 mpg highway
#19
Slow accel is the key. drive like i said and it will jump 3mpg. Back seat is a good piece of weight you dont need. find some junkyard rims that are lighter then stock. AC delete put a bypass pully on it. Remove passenger side mirror only driver side required. make a pannle to replace it. fiberglass hood and trunk. Use narrower tires then usual. If you dont use a radio take that and speakers out. Plexyglass rear windows instead of saftey glass. thats all i can think of atm. If you were racing and using a 350 you can cut about 15-20 lbs off the block but engine wont last as long because they are reinforcements. dont know about the 3800s tho
#20
Exactly my thinking. Another member is selling his Monte to get a new Mustang with a V-6 so he will get better gas mileage. I'm thinking, okay now you will have monthly payments and have to carry full coverage ins. So you will be spending about $300 a month to save on fuel. How many years will you have to go to even break even if ever with the new monthly monetary output versus keeping your paid off car and spending an extra $100 a month on fuel at the high fuel price rate. I mean if you want a new car, you want a new car, but just to save on fuel costs is not thinking it through. I have read where people who buy the hybrid cars really never win just based on the initial very high cost of the car.