the drivers side roof molding... had that replaced 3 times already because it doesn't like to stay stuck on. loosens up. check yours by going along the whole length of it and pressing down in spots, see if it goes down at all - if it does, then it's un-stuck and should be fixed. That molding should be all the way down into that channel, not flush with the roof like mine was.

drivers side door - the 2 metal rods inside the door panel are rattling - again... keep popping out of the plastic clips.

drivers side wiper/washer... the washer nozzle doesn't like to stay in the correct position to spray the whole windshield like it should... pours all the fluid down low instead of spraying it up.. I fixed this by adjusting that damn nozzle myself, then surrounding it with super glue

after only 8 months, the battery went totally dead... had a couple bad cells in it - dealer replaced with new/beefier AC Delco Professional Series battery.

the usual no-distance remote, service TPM system issue that everyone's having. Had my dealer do the fix for it about a month ago - thing is perfect now. they have to tear the whole dash apart to put in the new receiver module, take the a-pillar off to put in the new antenna, reprogram everything, blah blah blah.

carpet in trunk... was not tucked up under the weather stripping along the bumper

had my remote mirror switch go bad - dealer replaced with new module.

rear view mirror loosened up on me.. had to re-tighten that little allen screw.

missing one of the little rubber stoppers on the inside of the gas door... so I went out to the dealers lot and just took a couple off another car - put one in mine to replace the missing one, and have one for a spare..

when going at least 30mph, if I hit a recessed bump with my right rear tire, can hear a metal clunk/clank. Can only be heard on the outside - if I close the windows, you can't hear it. Dealer has no clue.

both windows were hitting wiring harnesses inside the door panel when going up/down - dealer repositioned the wiring harnesses and secured them.

seems like my drivers seat is loose.. if I'm on the brakes then let off them, I can feel the seat rock a little - haven't told the dealer about this yet.

top post on driver's side rear taillight broke off... presumably from that cargo net being on and having stuff in it. those hooks are actually the nuts for the taillight bolts/posts. the post broke right off the taillight housing, so the top of the light was flopping in and out - keep forgetting to tell the dealer about this, but I had fixed it by super-gluing the post/piece of plastic back onto the housing. let it dry and put it back together on the car, and it's been fine ever since... although I took that damn cargo net out of my trunk!

but other than that, it's perfect!!

 

Yeap, my door tag says 10/05.

I know, let's see who has the OLDEST '06.

I'll chime in with October 2005.

 

the usual no-distance remote, service TPM system issue that everyone's having:

I've not had this problem whatsoever 06MonteSS. Only problem thus far is the headlamps and the clunking in the right rear suspension....but you can only hear mine with the windows up. And it doesn't matter if there are people in the rear or not it still does it. Any ideas....maybe strut plate or sway bar link loose?

 

[align=center]Brake pads: What to look for
What you should know when having brake servicing done.

While the federal government sets performance standards for brake systems in new vehicles, there are no government regulations covering replacement brake pads. Given that a large percentage of consumer complaints to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) involves brakes--and the brake system is one of the most critical elements of vehicle safety--it's important to understand the choices consumers face when taking their vehicles to a brake shop. The cheapest brake job may compromise safety, and the most expensive parts may not make your vehicle any safer than the standard part.

Servicing brakes 25 years ago required few decisions other than choosing a mechanic. Disc and drum brakes used only two types of friction materials--semimetallic and asbestos. The mechanic simply replaced the old pad or shoe with the same type. Aftermarket suppliers rarely offered different performance grades or price points for either type of pad.

Today, however, asbestos has been all but eliminated, because it can't meet contemporary cars’ higher performance standards and there is concern over health hazards from asbestos dust. Automaker suppliers have developed additional friction compounds, and the aftermarket now offers a dizzying array of replacement brake products under dozens of brand names.

The different friction materials in use today often have design compromises. While one may offer superior heat transfer--and therefore better braking performance--it may also be noisier and more prone to depositing unsightly brake dust on the wheel rims. Another friction compound may have a soft feel, and work quietly, but wear out much more quickly.


Do you need new brake pads?

Usually, the first sign of excessive brake-pad wear is a high-pitched squealing.This sound comes from a soft-metal wear indicator that rubs against the brake rotor to alert the driver that a change is needed. Other symptoms can include the vehicle pulling to one side under braking, the brakes grabbing or vibrating, and the brake pedal feeling softer to depress. A grinding sound means that replacement is overdue and the worn brake pads may be damaging the brake rotors. Always check the owner's manual for any brake-related recommendations, including pad replacement intervals.


Types of brake pads

[b]There are four general types of brake pads for cars and trucks:

Semimetallic: This formula, containing about 30 to 65 percent metal, typically includes chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers, and friction modifiers that bond all the ingredients together. These pads are more durable and have excellent heat transfer, but also wear down rotors faster, can be noisy, and may not perform optimally at low temperatures.

Nonasbestos organic: Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, this type of pad is made from fibers, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar, with filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and create less noise, but they wear faster and create more dust.

Low-metallic NAO: These are made from an organic formula mixed with small amounts (10 to 30 percent) of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better braking. With the added metal, there is more brake dust and they may be slightly noisier.

Ceramic: These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents, and possibly small amounts of metal. Lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads, ceramic pads are cleaner and quieter, and offer excellent braking characteristics without wearing down th

 

 

I hardly get any brake dust on my wheels, but I don't drive it everyday either. Now on the other hand my 06 Mini Cooper S gets lots of brake dust on the wheels.

 

 

I traded the Mustang in for an 06 Mini Cooper last month. I wanted the better gas mileage. I bought a left over loaded 06 for cost, and it has a better warranty than my 05 Mustang. There also was a quality issue with the Mustang.

 

The Mini's wheels were so dirty when I got it (it was a service loaner) I had to take the wheels off and use wheel cleaner and a brush on them, I think it was Armor All's new wheel cleaner.

 

Nice car but they look so funny inside. Looks like a motorized roller skate.