FWD Tech Guides '95-'07 Guides/How-To information for FWD Montes 1995-2007

Repair Guide: How to change your brakes and rotor.

  #21  
Old 10-01-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jparks
Love the post wish I had the confidence to do this myself
What its easy you can do this. Follow the steps
 
  #22  
Old 10-10-2014, 08:34 AM
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Default Breaker Bar

what size(length) breaker bar did you use?
 

Last edited by oglocs928; 10-10-2014 at 09:07 AM.
  #23  
Old 10-10-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by oglocs928
what size breaker bar did you use?
Jeez, I don't know.... 16"?
 
  #24  
Old 10-10-2014, 09:12 AM
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Do you think using a 25in would be ok, or is that too long?
 
  #25  
Old 10-10-2014, 09:33 AM
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Turning the wheel so the bar points out from the car, I don't see that being an issue. It's not always needed either. It's mostly just handy to be able to save the energy for other things.
 
  #26  
Old 12-26-2017, 12:21 PM
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some of these posts are needing up dating as far pictures go. Herman
 
  #27  
Old 12-26-2017, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Maniac
I tend to use the C-Clamp to compress the caliper BEFORE removing any bolts. This way it all comes apart very easily.

Also, I have learned, per the shop book you need to apply GM Threadlocker to the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle. From what I have found, Red LocTite should be the same as the GM Thread locker (FYI, it's on my bolts now and I have proven, it will break with hand tools after it's curing time).
If you use tread locker you wont be getting those bolts out without heat ,you may have to replace those rotors again some day.
 
  #28  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Herman Munster
If you use tread locker you wont be getting those bolts out without heat ,you may have to replace those rotors again some day.
I have used just 1-2 drops of LocTite's Red thread loc, even though it states you require heat to remove, that is not 100% true. I believe you may need heat if you drench the the threads. Using 1-2 drops, I've gotten the bolts free by hand (usually with an extension on the handle of my ratchet).

Also, GM uses a dry red thread lock compound on the bolts where they are new (I know this as I had to get a replacement bolt once from the dealer). It's not much, just a little of the dry compound, but it works.

Unfortunately, I have had 3 different cars that use the caliper and caliper bracket have a bolt that holds the bracket to to the knuckle go MIA and cause problems. I did some research and found many others with cars using this design from all manufactures with this issue and common suggestion to use thread lock.

For those who never had that problem, it's possible my issue was brought on by cleaning all the crud from the bolts before re-installing. The issue that could create is removing whatever was left of the original dry thread lock.

Attached is a screenshot from the actual GM shop book on re-installing those bolts. GM is telling you to use thread lock. After those three issues without thread lock, I am now using it on those bolts every time.
 
  #29  
Old 12-30-2017, 09:45 PM
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As the procedure clearly states in step #3 tighten bolt to 180N-M or 133 lb ft of torque. These bolts are tighter than the wheels on your car you wont be breaking them loose with a hand ratchet. I have never used heat ,I either use a breaker bar or a impact
 
  #30  
Old 12-31-2017, 11:12 AM
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Looks like I ruffled some feathers LOL When I changed my rotors just recently those bolts were almost to the point of non loosening , I cant really see them needing loc tight ,but for sure do what the book says. They just might need it with 200 ft pounds of torque on them (I didn't think so ) Infact I put never seize on them. Dont throw a nut guys it was just my observation . Herman
 

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