Info: FWD Monte Maintenance at 100,000 miles
#11
Very nice write up. my monte has 105k so I'm going thru the list. id like to get another 100k out of her.
one question.....should the brake rotors be replaced if replacing a wheel hub bearing assembly? as anyone had any luck with re tightening the oil pan bolts ? my pan is just seeping enough so you can see oil on the gasket. doesn't concern me at this pint really tho.
only issue I have now is the dreaded ISS steering thump lol ill tackle that tonight tho.
one question.....should the brake rotors be replaced if replacing a wheel hub bearing assembly? as anyone had any luck with re tightening the oil pan bolts ? my pan is just seeping enough so you can see oil on the gasket. doesn't concern me at this pint really tho.
only issue I have now is the dreaded ISS steering thump lol ill tackle that tonight tho.
i wouldn't say that is necessary i would change them if you have the normal symptoms of warped rotors, or ,maybe you see deep groves in it or what. i would try to re tighten the oil pan bolts and if anything the gasket might be going
#13
Typically it's around 60,000 that you might need work, but it's really dependent on how your tires are wearing and how the car feels.
One test, is that you can pop the trunk or hood, and push down as far as you can, and see if the car just pops back up into place, or if it bounces a few times first. Obviously you want minimal bounce.
#14
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
Originally Posted by sharpeezss
one question.....should the brake rotors be replaced if replacing a wheel hub bearing assembly?
#16
I did the tranny fluid swap last evening..went smooth as butter however I did have a fluid extractor, so I was able to siphon the old oil up and out thru the dipstick. made changing out the filter a WHOLE lot less messy and easier.
I figure I got 6 quarts out. I was surprised how well the pan looked when it cam off. no metal pieces and very little of that chalky crap on the magnet....im pretty sure it was the 1st change out.....but at 105k it needed it..the oil did look old. shifts nice and smooth now by golly. I got lucky and hit the parts store when the fluid was on sale at 2 qt for $8 yay! and that's for the dexron VI. yay!! I think ill do this again when I hit 150k.
I figure I got 6 quarts out. I was surprised how well the pan looked when it cam off. no metal pieces and very little of that chalky crap on the magnet....im pretty sure it was the 1st change out.....but at 105k it needed it..the oil did look old. shifts nice and smooth now by golly. I got lucky and hit the parts store when the fluid was on sale at 2 qt for $8 yay! and that's for the dexron VI. yay!! I think ill do this again when I hit 150k.
#17
also don't forget checking the engine mounts the lower ones if you feel a vibration it is usually one or both trans and engine going bad. good rule of thumb is look at them while your doing a oil and trans fluid change look at them the engine I think is the only one filled with oil. check it run your finger on the engine mount. if it feels like you wiped a oil pan that had oil in it or the rubber on it feels like it is falling apart. peaces coming off it is well due to change it. most dealers will say it is your valve cover gaskets. that's what one dealer said when I got warrenty work done a while back but I knew better a shop replaced both for 210. compaired to others who wanted a lot more for them.
#19
I Pulled 4 plugs. all of them look original and gapped 060. I put em back in lol. swapped my upstream 02 sensor also. after supper gonna swap the PCV valve and replace some damaged wire loom. changed the oil yesterday.
I think I'm done !!
no I take that back....still gotta swap the fuel filter.
I think I'm done !!
no I take that back....still gotta swap the fuel filter.
Last edited by sharpeezss; 05-21-2016 at 04:16 PM. Reason: add info
#20
i know i need to flush the brakes, im currently bidding on a used mityvac mv8000 one man bleeder on ebay ill know by 5 if i won, if not ill just pay the extra 10 for a new one