i was looking for a guide on here on how to replace the sway bar on my car, mines was broke a bit so i went and got a replacement. i found a few leads on how to do it along with videos on youtube. Incase anyone may need further help on this hopefully this will help here it goes.

1. Tools needed double sided 15mm wrench
2. breaker bar
3. penetrating oil
4.13 mm double sided wrench
5.13 mm socket

6. 2 jacks to make things easier
7. 2 jack stands
8. THOR's Hammer

things will be bettr if you pre oil everything the night before (remember lube is your friend)

ok first thing to do is remove both tires and place them in jack stands. we all know how to do that


next if you didnt oil up the sway bar bushings before do them now


next while both sides of the car are on jack stands use the jacks to lift up some on the suspension, this makes things easier for the link to be removed




now use the 13mm wrench on the top part of the link and use the the 13mm socket on the bottom to losen things up, remove the top bolt



afterwards you may have something like this



now here is where you use your mighty thor hammer (lightening not included) and keep hitting the top of the bolt until it finally breaks lose and comes out next you use the 15mm wrench and 15mm socket to brake loose this bracket and bushing




Now after you do this on both sides you now wiggle the sway bar out. be patient because it may take a while, for me getting the old one out was no problem....



the new sway bar came as a kit with new bushings and links, it is a bit heavier compared to the old one.

Now only thing you have to do is reverse the order

TIPS THAT WILL MAKE THIS ALOT SMOOOTHER!!!! READ!!!!

1.when you are putting the new bar in have the front of the car high as possible so the sway bar dont keep hitting the ground and leaving you stuck. i did this myself in my apartment lot so this was an issue.

2. when getting the bar to fit in the correct spots on both sides it is better to alternate the steering wheel meaning. fit the bar a bit on one side then turn the wheel the opposite and do the same until they are both fitted correctly.


3. in this picture you possibly see white stuff in between the bushing and bracket. thats hand lotion, helped the two connect real smooth like and was no hassle



4. when you are about to finish up jack the suspension back up and SNUG everything Do not tighten yet!! once snug put down the suspention and tighten everything. i dont know the torque specs i just tightened them


well thats pretty much it, i hope that helps someone, wish i found an easier one for these cars. overall it took 3 hours. the harderst part was getting the heavier sway bar in there. after much swearing and water breaks i finally calmed down and got it. it may take a less amount of time if you have a partner. happy trails

 

Nice job, good picks and description.
Wish I could remember to take picks. Once I get started with a job I get Bad Tunnel Vision. But I've done So much to my Monte I could almost write a book. I guess I have a YellaJAC Obsession!

 

Mine looks like that too.

I found a Dorman solid unit kit for $75. at RockAuto.
I get a lot of my stuff from them.

Most of the time the pricing is good enough to more than cover the shipping compared to locally available parts pricing at Advanced, Auto Zone, etc.

A similar Duralast Autozone kit is $100, not sure if it is hollow or solid.

Its on the list as I just got this car. The brake fluid, coolant and trans fluid need immediate attention, as well as the EGR port CEL code P0401....

 

In the past couple of weeks I've starting hearing pop when the suspension moves like making a turn or hitting a small bump. Always at speeds less than 25mph.


I took a look at the front sway bar today and I think it might be broke out on one end but I'm not sure. Took a picture. Any advise is appreciated.


swaybarend.jpg

 

mines was doing the exact same thing, i thought it was the hub bearings but when i replaced them i still heared popping noises, i recommend that you get a solid sway bar replacement this way once its done it wont be needed to be fixed again, if you get the factory one again seeing as though its hollow it will happen again later down the road. i got mines from 1aauto.com, they also have a vid on youtube on how to do this, i mainly followed their steps and added a few of my own on this write up. if you have any questions i would be glad to help

 

Thanks. At least now I know what to fix. Looks like a stock replacement is $75 so $25 more for a solid one can't hurt. I never have liked the way the car rolls over when taking a corner since I bought it last year. I wonder if the solid one will make it a bit stiffer than the hollow one?


Just an FYI for anyone. Seems Autozone sells a solid one now as well.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._196180_0_2940


"Re-engineered with a solid forged design that eliminates the possibility of the ends breaking due to corrosion"


Since that one is the same price as the 1aauto and I don't have to pay shipping or tax I'll give it a try.

 

Comes with new bushings? Give it a shot