I'd recommend to get the rockers, tstat, plugs.

From there I need to know a bit more of your setup. Did you just get the U-bend delete or did you get the downpipe? If it was just he ubend, see if you can sell it and get a 3"downpipe.

For programming, once I learn it myself, we can probably meet sometime and I'll take care of it. I goto Indiana all the time to visit a friend. This would be just a jump away. Maybe hook up with Keegan and share some knowledge.

 

By the way, I have my programmer opened for all 04 Monte's.

 

Ive got a 2000 Ls 3.4 liter monte, its slow... very slow. what can i do to make it faster. i threw in a k&n filter and put on dual exhaust. i just want more power, but cant really find anything on the internet to help me. do you kno of anything i can do other than buy a different car?

 

Welcome to MCF Mike!

Not much can be done with that engine. You can do a home make Cold Air Intake or Fender Well Intake. The U-Bend delete will help.

Exhaust is good, but you can change the muffler.

Other than that not much.

Your best bet if you want it performance is to swap to an L67 engine.

 

I've got an '03 with the L36 and i was wondering that if i went with the 3' downpipe, what would i be doing with my cat? How much of a gain would i be receiving with the new downpipe? I saw earlier on this topic, "bumpin" was talking about the 1.9:1 rockers. What would that do to my engine if i changed them out? Which ones are already installed on mine? I would like to do more to my motor to gain more horses with out having to change out the entire thing. Besides the top of a L36, what are the differences between that and the L67?

 

It is tough to make a 3400 faster, especially on a limited budget. Check out www.60degreeV6.com in their store, and www.milzymotorsports.com but it adds up quick if you want to have an even remotely quick car...

I disagree, you can pick up used set of modded 1.9 rockers for $200-225 shipped, plus $20 for some VC gaskets and pick up an easy 10-15 whp+.

A tuner is great, but for someone sticking with basic bolt ons, modded stock rockers are one of the biggest bang for the buck mods outside of a pulley drop (after supporting mods have been done). A tuner would also take a lot of practice to see the same gains, and there is a lot more opportunity for people screwing stuff up- whereas the rockers are garaunteed power.

 

You can get a DP with or w/o a cat. IMO 3" is overkill for an L36 though- 2.5" is a better option. You also won't see nearly the gain that an L67 guy would. If I had an L36 and didn't plan to take it too far, I'd probably just have an exhaust shop delete the ubend after the cat and leave it at that. You'd be talking like $40 for 2 or 3 whp- not too bad.

Stock is 1.6:1 on your engine. 1.9:1 is a higher ratio- meaning the valves would open further (it is simply a multiplication of cam lobe lift), meaning more air in and out. Only downside is slightly higher wear on the springs and dampener. Upside is, they are a pretty good bang for the buck mod- used modded stock 1.9s can be had for $200-225 shipped if you wait long enough, and should be good for at least 10 whp, even on an L36.

Sticking NA is expensive to go fast though-if your goal is 200+ whp or sub 14 second 1/4 mile passes, then forget NA. If you want an easy install- go turbo instead of a top swap or complete swap.

Only thing that comes to mind is lower compression pistons (9.4:1 on an L36 vs 8.5:1 on an L67-better for boost), and the L67 balancer has grooves for the s/c belt as well as the accsy belt. Other than that, they are the same.

 

Where can i locate used 1.9:1 rockers? If i were to change my springs to stiffer ones would that more than likely reduce the wear? If i chose to go with a bigger T/B, should i up my injectors as well? Can i change out the t/b with one from a L67 or are they the same from the L36 and L67?

 

www.clubgp.com/forum go to the classified section down at the bottom (gp parts for sale), a set goes through every couple days. The more you're willing to spend, the quicker you can get them. $250 should get you a set in a week, I waited almost 2 months to get my set for $200 shipped- just depends how long you can wait out for a desperate seller.

What you are specifically looking for are modded stock 1.9 rockers (they just reweld and redrill the pushrod cup). Any other 1.9 will be much more expensive.

No, there is no reason to change springs doing modded stock rockers- they deflect more than aftermarket do, so springs aren't really needed unless you're looking at 6k+ shifts (with an aftermarket pcm) or you have really high mileage (150k +).

I wouldn't bother with a bigger TB on an L36- too much money for too little gain. An L67 tb is bigger and will not bolt up, but there is really no point- the mods I listed above are very specific towards an L67, modding an L36 is different in some aspects.

Unless you add some sort of boost, you should never need to change injectors.

 

The after market is after one thing and one thing only. To separate you from your hard earned cash and generate a profit no matter what.
For years the aftermarket has been swaying people using a bigger is better approach which so skewed its not funny.

Lets look at the exhaust straight up.

What size is the collector???
The exhaust should never be any bigger than the manifold/header output section, EVER. WHY?
Velocity, the speed of the exhaust exiting.
The more consistent its maintained the more power and flow it will allow up to its CFM size limit.
You can google pipe sizes and see how much CFM a pipe will allow before it becomes a restriction.
Forget the aftermarkets H.P. per size pipe charts. They don't deal with CFM and promote bigger is better. You can actually have a motor that is much smaller in size make more power then one twice its size, but doing so more efficiency CFM wise. This is volumetric efficiency.
If you go bigger after the manifold/header collector you've created a expansion point, which it turn slows the exhaust speed.
Great is its a 2 cycle, but it will only push the torque and horsepower curve around on a 4 cycle and can lower output if its too far oversized.
Then if you really want to know something else, as exhaust exits the motor, it cools and contracts, so ideally for streetability the exhaust should go at least 1/8-1/4 smaller before it exits to help maintain velocity.

Headers are the biggest gain in the exhaust, its the major restriction point by over a 3:1 margin than anything else.

Imagine a stadium, which many are still done this way, multi-level, but the only exits are on the bottom floor. Gets bunched up don't it, same for most factory manifolds. Now if each level had its own exit point in which you end up at the street level with everyone else, moves faster don't it, that kinda explains a header in simplest form.

Air intakes work on the same ideals for the most part, which is velocity. Too large, to free flowing, velocity will drop, with any velocity drop, volume will also drop.
So looking at the TB bore are you 1 1/2 times larger??? If you are your plenty big enough.
Want to test out your TB size?
Can you hit max RPM well before its floored gently pushing down the accelerator pedal? Its plenty big enough if you can. You can't, well time for a bigger one.
Again as with the exhaust you can find diameter to CFM flow numbers. Then again, what can you motor use max??? 1 1/2 times is well more than enough.

Programmers, HAHAHA, they are as bad if not worse than the 10 cent IAT resistors sold on ebay.
They yeild 1-3 degrees of timing based upon the useage of 91 octane. If the motor still manages to ping, then the knock sensors will pull the timing out losing your big bad tune. They do nothing on fuel trims, it can't. At first they program in a 10% increase during PE stages and you feel more power. But long term fuel trims are based upon short term ones and that programming will slowly be tuned out after a 1000 or so miles. Just remember that the 02 sensors are still in place trying to maintain a 14.7:1 ratio, unless you program that ratio to be different, you ain't gonna push any more fuel into it for any length of time.

Headers are the only semi simple thing you can bolt on for power for these Montes . After that, you must go at the internals like rocker ratios, cam lifts, head abilities etc.

The rest of the aftermarket is all games.
Up too, remember this well, up too!!
Yeah they found one **** poorly designed engine that this change they make made that up to number. They do this up too, because straight out numbers have been to court before and they lost. Aftermarket companies have sued to have removed numbers they found to be outright lies and proved, so now up to allows that same part to be sold with no directly implied meaning it'll do a dam thing since that one motor still exists and is supported.